[skulls]

so i should be getting my car in a month...but took advantage of black friday and some other sales and stuff is and will be stacking up...so im wondering of the list below, is there anything thats going to give me trouble? car will be on jack stands and i know what im doing around cars....

The List:
BMR relocation brackets
BMR adjustable phb
J&M extreme lca's
eibach front and rear sways
eibach lowering springs
steeda heavy duty strut mounts
steeda adjustable front end links
dss alum. drive shaft
mgw shifter
steeda ss brake lines
roush upper, lower grilles & lip
RTR axle backs
tokico adjustable shocks & struts
BMR front ds safety loop
jhr clutch line

i think thats it....i think most will be fine...but i know on my challenger the rear springs were almost impossible to get in because of thier weird lower control arm thing...so im just preparing myself for some of the worse things...tjings for any first hand experience

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[Blazin72]

It's all pretty easy stuff. All of it can be done by yourself. Be prepared for a constant stream of brake fluid while you are changing out the brake lines though.

The only one I haven't done is the clutch line swap. I've been thinking about doing it but I'm curious if anybody has actually noticed a difference in clutch pedal feel?

 

[08GTCA]

Most of that is a pretty straight foreward install. If you install the front springs onto the struts first, you will need a spring compressor. Then you can just r&r most everything else. Most all of the nuts on Ford suspension parts are said to be one time use only. I replaced the sway bar nuts and shock / strut nuts when i did mine just to be safe. The sway bar links can come loose and cause a clunk.

 

[Guest]

The front swaybar might be a little tricky, here is a decent write-up with pics. Swaybar part starts on page 2.
Controlling Body Roll with Whiteline

The JHR clutch line is not too bad, just pay EXTREME attention to the little clips so you don't lose them. Here is the write-up I made on the clutch line.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...eck-racing-stainless-braided-clutch-line.html

I would recommend doing the brake lines at the same time as the clutch line so you can bleed the entire system together.

Here is a write-up for installing lowering springs.
2011 Mustang GT 5.0 Ford Racing Lowering Springs Install - LatemodelRestoration.com Blog

Everything else should be cake.

 

[RacingRedGT]

The front swaybar might be a little tricky, here is a decent write-up with pics. Swaybar part starts on page 2.
Controlling Body Roll with Whiteline

The JHR clutch line is not too bad, just pay EXTREME attention to the little clips so you don't lose them. Here is the write-up I made on the clutch line.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...eck-racing-stainless-braided-clutch-line.html

I would recommend doing the brake lines at the same time as the clutch line so you can bleed the entire system together.

Here is a write-up for installing lowering springs.
2011 Mustang GT 5.0 Ford Racing Lowering Springs Install - LatemodelRestoration.com Blog

Everything else should be cake.

+1 to this.

Have you installed springs and struts before? An impact wrench goes a long way with getting the main strut nut off. If you dont have one accessible then you might want an extra pair of hands to hold the shaft while you remove and install the nut. (Thats what she said!) The shaft will just spin if you dont. It could be kind of frustrating.

Dont forget to loosen the brake line when dropping the rear axle. Should be in the write up, but easily missed.

Heres one more tip. When installing that many items at once it is very difficult to tell which one gives you an issue if one arises. Kind of like playing Wheres Waldo when you get some clunks, grinds and thumps.

 

[RacingRedGT]

Most of that is a pretty straight foreward install. If you install the front springs onto the struts first, you will need a spring compressor. Then you can just r&r most everything else. Most all of the nuts on Ford suspension parts are said to be one time use only. I replaced the sway bar nuts and shock / strut nuts when i did mine just to be safe. The sway bar links can come loose and cause a clunk.

The panhard bar will give some pretty good clunks too if not tightened well. Learned that the hard way. Thought my suspension was falling apart. Ended up being one nut being a little loose.

 

[skulls]

It's all pretty easy stuff. All of it can be done by yourself. Be prepared for a constant stream of brake fluid while you are changing out the brake lines though.

The only one I haven't done is the clutch line swap. I've been thinking about doing it but I'm curious if anybody has actually noticed a difference in clutch pedal feel?

yeah...im.going to bleed as much of the fluid as possible...but not looking forward to the mess...lol

ive heard people have noticed a much better over all feel the the clutch with the new line...on sale it was 54.00, for that price and im going to be swapping the fluid anyways...figured why not?

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[skulls]

Most of that is a pretty straight foreward install. If you install the front springs onto the struts first, you will need a spring compressor. Then you can just r&r most everything else. Most all of the nuts on Ford suspension parts are said to be one time use only. I replaced the sway bar nuts and shock / strut nuts when i did mine just to be safe. The sway bar links can come loose and cause a clunk.

yeah...autozone has thier free loaner tool program, so ill get a sprong compresspr from them...

so the nuts are a one time deal? is there a list somewhete that has numbers so i can.order in advance?

yeah sway bar and their end links can be a real ***** for coming loose...

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[skulls]

The front swaybar might be a little tricky, here is a decent write-up with pics. Swaybar part starts on page 2.
Controlling Body Roll with Whiteline

The JHR clutch line is not too bad, just pay EXTREME attention to the little clips so you don't lose them. Here is the write-up I made on the clutch line.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...eck-racing-stainless-braided-clutch-line.html

I would recommend doing the brake lines at the same time as the clutch line so you can bleed the entire system together.

Here is a write-up for installing lowering springs.
2011 Mustang GT 5.0 Ford Racing Lowering Springs Install - LatemodelRestoration.com Blog

Everything else should be cake.

stellar info and links thx...dropping the rear axle makes me a bit nervous...lol.

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[skulls]

+1 to this.

Have you installed springs and struts before? An impact wrench goes a long way with getting the main strut nut off. If you dont have one accessible then you might want an extra pair of hands to hold the shaft while you remove and install the nut. (Thats what she said!) The shaft will just spin if you dont. It could be kind of frustrating.

Dont forget to loosen the brake line when dropping the rear axle. Should be in the write up, but easily missed.

Heres one more tip. When installing that many items at once it is very difficult to tell which one gives you an issue if one arises. Kind of like playing Wheres Waldo when you get some clunks, grinds and thumps.

yes...ive lowered well over 24+ cars in the last 12 years and done many other things (s/c's, turbos, heads, headers, exhaust, full stereos, etc...i was a tech for 2 years as well) ..but the one thing ive learned is there os always something on each damn car...lol...

thx for the remind on the brake lines...

yeah this much **** and it gets a little crazy, lmao!!!!

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[skulls]

The panhard bar will give some pretty good clunks too if not tightened well. Learned that the hard way. Thought my suspension was falling apart. Ended up being one nut being a little loose.

ill make sure to tighten that ***** down ..thx

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[RacingRedGT]

stellar info and links thx...dropping the rear axle makes me a bit nervous...lol.

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Sounds way more daunting that it is. Actually very simple. Undo a few bolts then just lower it slowly till you have enough room. Making sure its aligned when pushing it back up was pretty simple also. Just go slow and it should be fine.

I used the same nut twice for my struts and havent had any issues with them. I like taking corners pretty fast and they havent come loose in 6000 miles.

 

[skulls]

Sounds way more daunting that it is. Actually very simple. Undo a few bolts then just lower it slowly till you have enough room. Making sure its aligned when pushing it back up was pretty simple also. Just go slow and it should be fine.

I used the same nut twice for my struts and havent had any issues with them. I like taking corners pretty fast and they havent come loose in 6000 miles.

thx for the advice...

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[F91]

If I was down in Portland I'd give you a hand. Every one of these projects greatly benefit from having that extra person involved. Plus, Portland has great bars.:winks +1 on the J&M Extremes. Excellent LCA's.

 

[skulls]

If I was down in Portland I'd give you a hand. Every one of these projects greatly benefit from having that extra person involved. Plus, Portland has great bars.:winks +1 on the J&M Extremes. Excellent LCA's.

hey thanks for the offer...parts wont go on until the beginning of 2013...so if your here, ill take you out for drinks to those bars if you help ;-)...super nice of you.

i hope they are good, i bought them over the bmr for the main reason of them being round and not boxed...but got a decent deal non the less.

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[ace72ace]

No hood struts? Everyone forgets these. I too did the MGW, DSS Shaft, and SS lines, I went with Goodridge. Are you going with Dot-4 ATE Super Blue? I was warned it would stain the stock plastic reservoir but I don't care.

I heard my buddy cursing a lot when installing the DSS under the car when I was putting the MGW up top. There was something about the bolts that was pissing him off that I can't recall. Don't forget to measure the shaft once the car is back on the ground, there is a warning on your instructions to do this. We measured at first when the car was still on the jacks and it was out of spec and I was saying, 'man, how could this be screwed up, I know we did this right' then we realized the car was still in the air with the rear axle hanging down. D'oh! :nogrinner

Also plan on doing the MGW same day as the shaft, as you will obviously have easier install with the shifter with the OEM shaft out of the way...

Here's a post I did on the MGW. I hear the design recently changed, but most of the info here should still be good.

How to install your MGW MT-82 Shifter & Heat Shield

 

[F91]

If you give me a couple weeks heads up, I will see what I can do. I had an aftermarket billet set of LCA's with poly bushings first. The spherical bushings are light years ahead.

hey thanks for the offer...parts wont go on until the beginning of 2013...so if your here, ill take you out for drinks to those bars if you help ;-)...super nice of you.

i hope they are good, i bought them over the bmr for the main reason of them being round and not boxed...but got a decent deal non the less.

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[skulls]

No hood struts? Everyone forgets these. I too did the MGW, DSS Shaft, and SS lines, I went with Goodridge. Are you going with Dot-4 ATE Super Blue? I was warned it would stain the stock plastic reservoir but I don't care.

I heard my buddy cursing a lot when installing the DSS under the car when I was putting the MGW up top. There was something about the bolts that was pissing him off that I can't recall. Don't forget to measure the shaft once the car is back on the ground, there is a warning on your instructions to do this. We measured at first when the car was still on the jacks and it was out of spec and I was saying, 'man, how could this be screwed up, I know we did this right' then we realized the car was still in the air with the rear axle hanging down. D'oh! :nogrinner

Also plan on doing the MGW same day as the shaft, as you will obviously have easier install with the shifter with the OEM shaft out of the way...

Here's a post I did on the MGW. I hear the design recently changed, but most of the info here should still be good.

How to install your MGW MT-82 Shifter & Heat Shield

nope i got hood strust...but i have zero concern about putting those in...

good info about the shaft, ill be getting rest of this stuff this week, so to take the edge off of not being to install anything ill be going over the instruction manuals a sh!t load of times.

how do you like the driveshaft, i went with it because it seems like they did thier homework WAY more then any of the others and from stuff i read their's did not have the annoying issues of the other companies...

i will for sure be doing the shifter same day as the shaf, in fact ill be taking a friday and monday off from, so ive got for full days to do everything...ill hope it takes no more then 3 so i haveva whole day to go mess around with the car.

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[skulls]

If you give me a couple weeks heads up, I will see what I can do. I had an aftermarket billet set of LCA's with poly bushings first. The spherical bushings are light years ahead.

dude thats really nice of you...but dont worry about it.

that was my thinking when i decided what route to go on the lca's...the sphericals just made more sense...glad to hear it was the right call...

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[stevegt2012]

Don't forget to measure the shaft once the car is back on the ground, there is a warning on your instructions to do this.

What is the purpose measuring the length of the drive shaft? It not like there is anything to adjust here.