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Looks to me like it would be heavier than the shaftmaster since it is 4" and shaftmasters is 3.5.

Shaftmasters is rated to 600 wheel HP, so you will never see that much HP.

Can't see any good reason to pay that much more.

Interesting that they only offer one for automatic cars...
 
J

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Looks to me like it would be heavier than the shaftmaster since it is 4" and shaftmasters is 3.5.

Shaftmasters is rated to 600 wheel HP, so you will never see that much HP.

Can't see any good reason to pay that much more.

Interesting that they only offer one for automatic cars...
Psssht! After my new hood, with the hood pin mod, big giant rear wing, and new rear defuser, that should put me around 650 to 700 at the wheels! At least, maybe more if I add the GT500 splash guards! Ha!!!!!!!!!
 

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Looks to me like it would be heavier than the shaftmaster since it is 4" and shaftmasters is 3.5.

Shaftmasters is rated to 600 wheel HP, so you will never see that much HP.

Can't see any good reason to pay that much more.

Interesting that they only offer one for automatic cars...
Do you think maybe AM let them use their "project car" for RE and just didn't realize it wouldn't work for a manual until after it was designed?

Or do you think maybe they just haven't tried it on a manual yet?
 

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Question: Most of us feel the 2 piece is bad. At least the V6 2 piece as recent posts displayed what happened on a dyno. But the GT500 2 piece is heavier? right. My GT 500 had 551 at the wheels and estimated well over 600 flywheel and I never broke it. But I never put slicks on it either. Most of the tire spinning was easy as the Good year F-1's didn't bite well. Even with the Nitto's it spun. Lots of torque to do that. This brings me to my point: With the lack of torque in our V6's, wouldn't it take a lot to break a heavier 2 piece?

So what about buying someone's GT 500 two piece for 1/3 the cost of the aftermarket ones?
 

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I wanted to add text that I know the 500 is the 6060 but could you change the flanges and make it work?

Didn't have a EDIT option?
 

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Question: Most of us feel the 2 piece is bad. At least the V6 2 piece as recent posts displayed what happened on a dyno. But the GT500 2 piece is heavier? right. My GT 500 had 551 at the wheels and estimated well over 600 flywheel and I never broke it. But I never put slicks on it either. Most of the tire spinning was easy as the Good year F-1's didn't bite well. Even with the Nitto's it spun. Lots of torque to do that. This brings me to my point: With the lack of torque in our V6's, wouldn't it take a lot to break a heavier 2 piece?

So what about buying someone's GT 500 two piece for 1/3 the cost of the aftermarket ones?
From what I was explained from the techs that worked on my car the v6 shaft is different then the gt one which makes it weaker. Wouldn't give me anything more specific but I'd still go with shaftmasters since it is smaller
 

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Question: Most of us feel the 2 piece is bad. At least the V6 2 piece as recent posts displayed what happened on a dyno. But the GT500 2 piece is heavier? right. My GT 500 had 551 at the wheels and estimated well over 600 flywheel and I never broke it. But I never put slicks on it either. Most of the tire spinning was easy as the Good year F-1's didn't bite well. Even with the Nitto's it spun. Lots of torque to do that. This brings me to my point: With the lack of torque in our V6's, wouldn't it take a lot to break a heavier 2 piece?

So what about buying someone's GT 500 two piece for 1/3 the cost of the aftermarket ones?
I wanted to add text that I know the 500 is the 6060 but could you change the flanges and make it work?

Didn't have a EDIT option?
You absolutely could make either the GT or GT500 shaft work if they are long enough by just having a driveshaft shop change out the ends of the shaft to the V6 size or fitting a u-joint with the correct cross sizes to adapt it.

I also say, and we've discussed this some ourselves Scott, that you could have a driveshaft shop build a steel shaft that would be configured like these aluminum shafts and would be lighter than the stock one and able to take plenty of HP and cost less. Might not be as light as the aluminum but lighter than the stock one and lots less money than the aluminum.
 

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Still have my Shaftmasters drive shaft off my 2011 3.7 Auto with about 500 miles on it. $370 ship to lower 48. E-mail
damn - wish you had a manual - I'd jump on it.
 

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prob still would go with the shaft master:) ..its already been tested and in some cases dyno'd on peoples cars with no issues..it would be nice to see some results and some more specs on the AM's driveshaft tho.
 

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You absolutely could make either the GT or GT500 shaft work if they are long enough by just having a driveshaft shop change out the ends of the shaft to the V6 size or fitting a u-joint with the correct cross sizes to adapt it.

I also say, and we've discussed this some ourselves Scott, that you could have a driveshaft shop build a steel shaft that would be configured like these aluminum shafts and would be lighter than the stock one and able to take plenty of HP and cost less. Might not be as light as the aluminum but lighter than the stock one and lots less money than the aluminum.
Yup- going to call a couple places in Orlando and see what I can find out. Thanks
 

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Yup- going to call a couple places in Orlando and see what I can find out. Thanks
Not to go too off topic, but saw a few kona's when I was down visiting family this past weekend over in Oviedo, FL. Not sure if was you.

Back on topic my shaftmasters arrived this past thursday. I plan on installing sometime this week.
 

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Not to go too off topic, but saw a few kona's when I was down visiting family this past weekend over in Oviedo, FL. Not sure if was you.

Back on topic my shaftmasters arrived this past thursday. I plan on installing sometime this week.
Nope, I am GB and usually on the south side. I haven't been to Oviedo in a couple years. I was on a wild goose chase trying to buy a couple boats. Nice area though.
 

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Ya know you guys could go to a shop that MAKES driveshafts right? Probably save yourself a good amount of cash and you know what you're getting.

Remember the lighter the driveshaft the more power and more MPG's you get.
 

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I called a few shops and most don't want the liability to make one??? A couple other shops were in the $850-1000 range. Ouch.
 

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wow a grand, really? as a newbie to the forum i'm going to risk asking a dumb question...i don't plan to dyno my stang any time soon, and i'm only doing some spirited driving every once in a while. is the two piece still something to look at replacing?
 

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I would think your OK until you either add a considerable amount of power and or slicks or lower the car and don't set your pinion angle correctly.
 

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wow a grand, really? as a newbie to the forum i'm going to risk asking a dumb question...i don't plan to dyno my stang any time soon, and i'm only doing some spirited driving every once in a while. is the two piece still something to look at replacing?
I would think your OK until you either add a considerable amount of power and or slicks or lower the car and don't set your pinion angle correctly.
I think its anybody's guess but I'd put my money on regalt87's.
 
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