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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ever since I put a new 302 in my 67' I've had nothing but trouble from it.

Its a 1977' low compression maverick block
e7 heads (1.94/1.60 Chevy valves)
Edelbrock performer Intake (not RPM)
Edelbrock 650-cfm
500-horse aftermarket rods
stock crank
speedpro flat tops
comp 268 cam
stock oil pump
and summit roller tip rockers

I rebuilt the old c4 that was in it and originally I had put some 1965 A code heads, and it ran great. The thing blew the tires off whenever I wanted and could get up to 120-130 mph no problem (thanks to the 2.79 gears) for the first 20 minutes. Right after that everything went bad. I went to back out of a driveway I'd turned into to turn around (on a slight slope, putting some strain on the engine) and It started screaming like I don't know what, it sounded like nails on a chalkboard when you tried to get it above half throttle. I figured it was detonation (due to the flat tops and small chambers on the 65 heads) so I threw my e7's on there and my god it still did it..

You can hear the noise here: http://youtu.be/2pDXU89xr0k

anyways its about 3 months later and the engine has 300 or so easy going miles on it, the oil is still clean and the plugs look fine. And i've figured out the screaming sound only happens in 1st (above 2500rpm) and reverse (above 1800rpm). Until today, Which is why i've decided to post this, Today After giving about half-throttle onto the highway. It made the noise all the way through first, then second, and finally stopped in 3rd gear. Not as loud as it was before, but still noticeable. But ive discovered if you just roll into the throttle instead of flooring it, theres no screaming sound. The low end has come back some since then but its still very sluggish and only gets about 8-10 mpg. Also did I mention it sounds like a sewing machine after 10 minutes of running and getting up to operating temp? Yeah it clatters and ticks like crazy.. Idk what's going on anymore. The lifters are set and the timing is fine but still my car won't run right
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone have any ideas? if you need more info, just ask.
 

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I would swag...Ignition/cam/crank timing. Carb #2
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would swag...Ignition/cam/crank timing. Carb #2
That's what i thought aswell, I already went through the distributor cleaning and replacing parts where needed. And have tried working with the timing moving it up and down. I actually got it to almost stop once but at that point the timing was so far down the car would barely run in the first place.

(It does actually have a pertronix distributor kit in it, but nothing seems to be wrong with it since it was working before the rebuild)

EDIT: Now that I think about it, I actually did put a different carb I had on it to see if there was any difference and it seemed to make it worse
 

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Sure it's not a slipping alternator belt? With the engine off, push down on the belt. If it moves more than a quarter inch with ease, it needs tightening. That's the only thing I can think of that would make the squealing sound you describe.
 

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That's what i thought aswell, I already went through the distributor cleaning and replacing parts where needed. And have tried working with the timing moving it up and down. I actually got it to almost stop once but at that point the timing was so far down the car would barely run in the first place.

(It does actually have a pertronix distributor kit in it, but nothing seems to be wrong with it since it was working before the rebuild)

EDIT: Now that I think about it, I actually did put a different carb I had on it to see if there was any difference and it seemed to make it worse
I'm not a fan of e-box conversion kits or any of the pertronix items...IMHO, pull it out and install the oem style points/condenser.....(bluestreak is the best imho)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Sure it's not a slipping alternator belt? With the engine off, push down on the belt. If it moves more than a quarter inch with ease, it needs tightening. That's the only thing I can think of that would make the squealing sound you describe.
I'll go check and if this is the case I'll let you know, but I think I have a video where the sound shows up. It is brief but I'll see if I can upload it.

EDIT: I checked and the belt seems a little bit loose. Hard to say what your definition "With ease" is compared to mine :laugh:
I'll tighten it up some once I get home, see if that fixes the problem. In the mean time, I uploaded the video for you guys to review. Also, I should note the car IS equipped with AC, not sure if that matters at all.
 

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It sounds like water pump pulley deflection.....but it could also be water pump or altenator bearing failure causing the pulley to slow inducing belt squeal.

IMHO, I would not recommend using any oem pulley's for other than a show vehicle. Reason: the pulley's are made from stamped steel, metal fatigue is setting in meaning the pulley can and will fail sending shrapnel (chunks of metal) through the hood, radiator and possibly engine accessories. These "faults" can only be detected by magnfluxing the components in most cases, however sometimes you can place a pulley on a lathe, spin at a slow rpm and check for visual deformities. A few years ago I was traveling back from a cruise night when 2 cars, both 1960's, T-Bird and Mustang, both experienced sudden pulley failures- one went through the hood the other through the radiator, destroying the battery, wiring and ac. I pulled my pulley's and found metal fatigue, replaced them with new aftermarket units (while I went with March for show purposes, less expensive units are available).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So, After adjusting and changing pulleys around. Nothing seems to have changed.. My concern is if it something to do with the roller tip rockers or the transmission. Previously when i'd changed the heads I'd noticed that the inside of the rockers where the ball sits was not smooth, they were very scratched. I thought this might be the source of the noise and have something to do with them having oil galley's in them. So, I smoothed them out with some sandpaper and replaced the balls with the stock ones, instead of the ones that had come with the rockers (which had oil galleys). After running the engine how it is now for a while the Rockers seems to look just fine. But the noise presists along with their excessively loud clicking sounds they make.

My other concern is the transmission, I'm not transmission man and I rebuilt the transmission myself and added a shift kit. As far as I know I don't think i put anything back incorrectly but some transmission gusy I've talked to seem to think that the 1st/Reverse clutch pack is slipping somehow. (Since the noise only seems to happen under acceleration in those gears)

Here's a link to the rockers I have: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-141708pl/overview/
 
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