I would replace the TPS sensor thats my guess without being there.
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I don't think it's the TPS, based on issues I've had before that were due to TPS and symptoms were way different. But, if you want to check it, hook up to a scanner and view TPS voltage. At idle, it should hold pretty steady, and as throttle increases or decreases, voltage should do the same, steadily. If you don't have a scanner, you can use a voltmeter on resistance setting. Same thing here; look for a steady increase or decrease, with no sudden jumps or spikes in the reading as the sensor moves throughout it's range.I would replace the TPS sensor thats my guess without being there.
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I haven't had the alternator checked and ill have to get a shop to check the TPS, Im just stumped on why its not pulling codes at allI don't think it's the TPS, based on issues I've had before that were due to TPS and symptoms were way different. But, if you want to check it, hook up to a scanner and view TPS voltage. At idle, it should hold pretty steady, and as throttle increases or decreases, voltage should do the same, steadily. If you don't have a scanner, you can use a voltmeter on resistance setting. Same thing here; look for a steady increase or decrease, with no sudden jumps or spikes in the reading as the sensor moves throughout it's range.
I know you said you already did vacuum lines and IAC, but this issue is frustratingly classic to one of those two items being the issue.
Have you thought about having the alternator tested? It's a longshot, but something such as excessive AC ripple (bad diodes) can cause issues such as this.
I don't know is that something I could look at myself?How is the PCv valve?
ok I will try that, I hope it fixes it!Try getting some maf sensor cleaner and cleaning it.
Will do!Alright let us know if it works :bigthumbsup
I havent disconnected the battery in a couple weeks ok ill check out the link thanks!The fact of the matter is this could be:
- TPS
- vacuum leak
- bad IAC value
- bad PVC valve
- loose/worn throttle linkage
- weak throttle return spring
- Weak cylinder power balance
- bad TPS
- unstable/incorrect fuel pressure
- bad/weak/unstable battery or battery cables.
Have you disconnected the battery lately? If so, this could be part of the problem. Remember that each time the battery is disconnected, the PCM must RE-learn new idle/trim values. Sooooo it's normal to have a poor idle right after a battery disconnection.
Consider that if you are disconnecting the battery during trouble shooting, this will reset the IAC/PCM re-learning process. Just as well, if the battery voltage is dropping, this could reset the learning process.
My suggestion. Start with the easy stuff first before looking at the more difficult possibilities.
An ODB2 scanner with operational monitoring WILL make this easier to trouble shoot.
Check out:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...-dieing-idle-idling-rough-14.html#post2260649