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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I'm going to see about pulling codes later in the week or even this weekend but I thought I'd get started thinking about things.

First, the symptoms: little bit rough idle, it doesn't surge but instead the idle drops low then comes back up then drops low. The drop is about 200rpm. Also, at idle the car blows "black juice" out of both tailpipes. At wide open throttle the car is a joke. Absolutely no power and it hesitates badly, lots of black smoke out of the tailpipes. That's if i get in and mash my foot to the floor. If I just get in and ease it into WOT then it runs pretty ok or at least doesn't hesitate and kick. Also, no drop in fuel pressure on my gauge while this occurs. Timing is set at 10 degrees, but it does increase a little bit through the Diablo chip. There doesn't seem to be any change in how the car idles when I disconnect the MAF (hmmm).

What have I done recently: new throttle body (broke the vane in the old one), set the tps to .996. cleaned the maf with maf cleaner (not carb cleaner), cleaned the iac also with maf cleaner. I am not aware of any vacuum leaks.

What are your thoughts? and thanks!
 

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Codes are the Key here. Besides that how are the Cap,plugs and wires? And your right, the idle should change once the MAF is unhooked.

First and foremost, THE CODES!!!
 

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I'm thinking it's all coming back to the mass air meter. Because the engine should DIE or come close to it when you unplug the meter. If there's no change in how it runs when you unplug it, there's a problem with the meter.
 

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If there's no change when you unplug the MAF then it is almost certainly not working right, check for good connections and try cleaning off the sensor wire before running out to buy a new one.
 

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gotta go with the dielectric grease on sensor prongs......
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks y'all. I have some of that dielectric grease. What is a PIP sensor? That's a new one for me. How would I test the MAF meter itself vs the connections? I have a digital voltmeter but not the knowledge to use it (there, I admitted it).
I was sure hoping to drive the car this weekend, but doesn't look too promising.

Also, I removed the covers from my A9L computer thinking I'd see a noticeably burned up circuit (the return signal) for pulling codes. Nothing, all circuits from both the top side and underneath the board look the same and normal. I have a spare computer so I'll see if I could use that one to pull codes from.

Paul
 

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How are you pulling the codes? Scanner or testlight?

I have a test for the MAF sensor and harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have a code reader.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Masshole is the man ( I assume). Anyway, I was preparing to tap the bank account for a $200 MAF when all it seems to have taken to fix the problem was some dielectric grease that I already had in my tool box. :gringreen I tried two different A9L computers (never hurts to have a spare) both with my Diablo chip and I don't think the car has run this well since last summer or so. Interesting point was that I never could get my code reader to establish communication to either A9L. I still get some black juice out of the tailpipes at cold idle (too rich I guess) but the car drives just the way I believe it should.

It probably is time to change the cap and rotor. I put them on I think in May 2005, the plug wires have been on the car since before I bought it in Nov 2003.

Thanks for all of the ideas!
 
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