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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first mustang, it's an automatic 2002 v6 convertible 3.8l. I bought it about 2 weeks ago and only because i got a really good deal on it. 2,600.00. Few cosmetic issues and it had a major misfire issue. The people told me they had it scanned and were told it was the coil pack. It started and ran, never stalled, just didn't like going from dead stop to second gear. Once in second it was way better but still a little jumpy. Drove it all the way home about 40 miles (probly not the best idea) but once it was up to 60 mph it was fine as long as you weren't going uphill. Engine never got hot, all guages read fine all the way. Got it home, changed coil pack, no better. Friend Changed spark plugs, fuel pump, oil, and maybe something else. Started it up, said he thought he had fixed it, went to put hood down.... stalled. Went around started back up, went to put hood down, same thing. After that it wouldn't start again. It turns over but won't start. Theft light blinking. Had locksmith come out to see about new key, while testing the PATS system fried the tranciever in the ignition. Car wouldn't even turn over. Towed it to Ford, after an arm and a leg got a new transceiver put in($330) and 2 new keys programmed. Still won't start. Turns over but won't start. Theft light blinking again. Had it towed home because they wanted another $250 to change, install, reprogram 'possible' bad PCM using parts I purchased from salvage yard. So I'm right back to where I started before the locksmith came out I guess. Car turns over but won't start, theft light blinks even if key is not in ignition. Theft light stays solid while in on position but disappears while cranking. then blinks again when off. It is getting fuel I can smell it, alot. Everywhere I've heard it's the key, or plugs, or reprogram PATS. BUt I've done all that. Ford gave me a list of codes that they got before they replaced the transponder.... p1600-PATS ignition key transponder signal is not received, p2241-rear cargo door lock short to ground, p2103-antennae not connected. Judging from my repair sheet. I'm wondering if they even put the transponder coil in the ignition. That's what was bad.... I'll have to call in morning and ask. Either way... any ideas on what it could be before I swap PCM. thanks
Oh and I got a list of OBD codes from autozone that were totally different. I'll have to get the list from my friend. I'll post them asap.
 

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Note, the factory PATS in the 99+ model year does not lock out the starter. The symptom is crank with no start. Therefore, a no-crank is NOT because of PATS.

FYI, if you change the PCM, the cluster will need to be re-programmed. Changing the cluster or the PCM means that both will need to be re-programmed.

Here's a crank with no start check list. If this were my car, I would perform a compression check.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html#2984838

FYI, the motor never getting up to temp may be a symptom of air trapped inside the motor. It could also be a stuck T-stat.

V6 coolant re-filling procedures.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/v6-tech/299481-1998-mustang-irregular-rpms-showing-hot.html#2604913

Here's a link about possible cluster "issues".
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/v6-tech/304608-my-odometer-goes-off.html#2657361
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Note, the factory PATS in the 99+ model year does not lock out the starter. The symptom is crank with no start. Therefore, a no-crank is NOT because of PATS.

FYI, if you change the PCM, the cluster will need to be re-programmed. Changing the cluster or the PCM means that both will need to be re-programmed.

Here's a crank with no start check list. If this were my car, I would perform a compression check.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html#2984838

FYI, the motor never getting up to temp may be a symptom of air trapped inside the motor. It could also be a stuck T-stat.

V6 coolant re-filling procedures.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/v6-tech/299481-1998-mustang-irregular-rpms-showing-hot.html#2604913

Here's a link about possible cluster "issues".
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/v6-tech/304608-my-odometer-goes-off.html#2657361
thank you so much for the information.... I realize PATS doesn't lock out the starter but mine does crank... just no start. I recently realized that its not getting any spark to the plugs. There's spark at the coil pack, but not the plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thank you so much for the information. Mine cranks but won't start so PATS is still a possibility. Only thing is the Theft light stays on when in the on position but dissapears while trying to start. then blinks again after off. Ive recently discovered there's no spark at the plugs. Coil pack has spark though. Had planned on doing compression test among other things.
 

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Turn the ignition key on but do not crank. Does the theft light go out after a 3 second "prove out"?

NO: Look for a possible PATS issue.

YES the theft light is off: PATS system has "proved out" and will allow the car to start.

Since a "no crank" was also mentioned in the tons of symptoms, I would be open to the possibility that the problem is in the ignition switch itself.

As you also mentioned that the car stalled when the hood was closed, I would consider the possibility of a loose battery cable or terminal.

Are the battery terminals clean and tight? What about the grounds around the radiator core support? Check the battery junction box (BJB) in the engine bay.

Bottom line: today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. Don't cut corners here unless you like chasing wild geese.
 
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