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Discussion Starter #1
Hello this is my first post on this forum I will try and keep it short but there are a lot of moving parts here.

Always loved this body style so started looking to pick one up.

On St Patrick's day I bought a 2006 GT Premium in legendary lime with black leather interior for a steal. It is a 5 speed and in pretty decent condition for a 12 year old car. The bad was it has 220,000 miles and the timing chains making noise and after a month or so it developed a nice rod knock after driving it for 30 minutes or so.

I then picked up a wrecked 2007 GT CS with a 5 speed and 126,000 miles on it that I am using as a donor car for a lot of parts. This car ran great minus the bent axle and 8" creator just behind the drivers door.

A few weeks ago my sons and brother in law an I swapped the engine out of the wrecked CS into my GT.

I started it up and backed it out of the garage within 8 hours of pulling it in - we had an issues with the plug change on the AC compressor that held us up for a bit as we swapped compressors and then a few lines as well.

Either way the car would start and run great for about 90 seconds then it would start claiming the charging system needed attention and throw a few codes and run like crap.

I could reset everything and run it for as long as I want over 1200 rpm but when it dropped and the computer started to make adjustments it would do the same thing every time.

I had read someplace that if you are going to swap the engine you need to swap the computer too. So I did and the car has not run since.

Tonight I just swapped the cluster from the CS over and it is the same thing - flashing anti-theft light and no crank.

I am thinking I will put the original computer and cluster back in the car unless someone here has an idea.

Considering I have the entire other car I can swap over whatever I need to just not sure what component that is yet.

Bad thing is that I only have one key for each car, so there is no second key to try. I am toying with the idea of swapping over the ignition switch as well since the CS key does not have the broken key chain loop like the other key.

Any ideas?
 

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So the theift light is caused by key not being programmed to cluster. It may also be do to the PCM and cluster(IPC) not being synced. If the two modules do not recognize one another it sets a theift light and immobilizes the vehicle.

As for the charging system, did the alternators get swapped? Could be different or the one is inoperative. Got to read your post over some more to figure out where to lead you on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update

So after work today I swapped the original cluster and computer back into the car and it fired right up.

Did the run fine for 60-90 seconds then check charging system and run like crap.

Did not put the scanner on it this time. Last time it was high fuel rail pressure and high oil temp plus some emissions codes.

So I am back to square one at least with a sort of running car.

To claify both cars ran and drove fine before the swap.

Next thing will be to start looking at all the wires and see if something was not plugged in all the way or pinched.

I will revisit the anti theft stuff just to know how the system works and all the components.
 

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I bet if you put the PCM IPC and key cylinder in from other vehicle it will run fine. Don’t put my money on it. I’m just thinking they may have updated the engine harness with newer years and the older PCM is not getting proper signals. Or as you mentioned you might have pinched something. It happens.
 
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