Well the thread title says 02 GT so with that said Im assuming thats the motor you're talking about obviously. So just so you know, its not an dual overhead cam, its just single overhead cams. :eyepoppin

smoker said:

Since its winter i need to start looking at future parts. One of those things is Cams. I know that if you go to a shop its not cheap but i've als heard of people installing them themselves. Since they're dual overhead cams i don't think the engine needs to come out. Now i may be wrong (most likely) but doesn't it cost like $2,000 to install cams at a shop or no. I here a lot of people using Comp Cams and Crane Cams. So if you guys could have at it and let me know everything you guys know about this that would be great. Also if i install cams will i need to add other things to compensate the power of the cams?

Thanks,
:smoke:

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Sorry about that your right. i'll fix that to take away the confusion.

Sorry its single not dual.

smoker said:

Since they're dual overhead cams

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Modular Powerhouse does the install with aftermarket springs and removing the heads for 1200. They stand behind their work and are making the sickest mustangs out there. Just sent out a 751rwhp/768 rwtq GT.

Installation of the cams is the easy part, it's the springs that are a *****. The problem is getting the keepers back on the valve stem while using the POS OTC tool ford made to compress the valve springs. (grease and a skinny flathead screwdriver work the best).

Modular Powerhouse takes hte heads off to install the springs... this is much easier, and better to do, as they can shim the springs if need be.

I can see how shimming springs with the heads installed would be a mofo of a task if possible at all. I personally don't like the idea of a cam swap with the head installed. What if a lock comes unseated and you don't have something on the valve stem to hold it in place. You're gonna wind up taking the head off anyway. By the time you get to the point where you can do the swap you're over half way there, might as well take the heads off and check the cylinder wear pattern while you're at it.

If you go too agressive, you'll need a heavier duty torque converter if its an auto. Probably a 5spd, but just in case...

There several things you can do to maximize the power from the new cams. Intake and exhaust will work wonders for letting the cams really control the airflow. Also as mentioned a torque converter that will match the new powerband won't add any power but it will allow the car to utilize the power it has much better, that is if you have an automatic. Also, and I bet I'm going to regret opening this can of worms but it needs to be said, gears. Choosing gears is a highly personal and highly (and heatedly) debated issue. That's all I will say about gears. There are plenty of people who will give you their opinion, who you choose to listen to and the final decision is yours though. Don't forget to look into a good tune session to make the most of what you're putting on the car once the cams are in. Good luck and happy modding.

I've shimmed springs on the car at Roush this week... let me say that it's nearly impossible and i think i said more swear words in 1 night than i have my entire life.

Also, you shouldn't need to worry about dropping a valve, so long as you have air pressure in the cylinder, and if you want to be extra careful there are clips that clip on the grooves of the valve stem as insurance.

BlueStreak03 said:

I can see how shimming springs with the heads installed would be a mofo of a task if possible at all. I personally don't like the idea of a cam swap with the head installed. What if a lock comes unseated and you don't have something on the valve stem to hold it in place. You're gonna wind up taking the head off anyway. By the time you get to the point where you can do the swap you're over half way there, might as well take the heads off and check the cylinder wear pattern while you're at it.

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Okay well guys i can't thank you enough you guys are very informative and that helps me out more than you guys can ever imagine. Thanks!!!

Now i want tell you that my car is an automatic and as i'm writing this to you my car is getting a beefier trans put into it (i blew my trans two weeks ago 31,856 miles:sterb: ). Anyways i don't remember everything thats getting put into it but i know it is getting a better torque converter and that it is rated for 450hp without even blinking an eye. So now my question is will this support the cams?
Also my Mods so far consist of : K&N FIPK, SLP LoudmouthII exhaust, and Dragon Performance 75mm TB and Plenum (i know you only need 75mm if you plan on adding a turbo but i didn't know that at the time). So go ahead and laugh at my slow automatic GT. You wouldn't be the first, but i'm not planning on taking this car to the track ever. Its simply a street cruiser looking for a fight every now and then with a rice burner or a camaro.
Now you know what i'm dealing with give me some opinions as to what should be my next move/mod?
I plan to finish off the exhaust system this summer with BBK headers and x-pipe. Maybe a bigger gear if i'm lucky but i doubt it!

So give me your two cents!

Thanks again you guys are great i trust you guys a lot!
:smoke:

P.S. The website for the place that is making my trans is www.roadmastertranz.com click on their high performance tab and enter Dr. Evil Trans then click on the tab marked 4r70w and mine is the street evil one.

Before the work is complete with the new trans, ask them what the stall speed of the converter is. Then pick out your cams. Then talk to your trans guy and let him know as much as you can about the cams. He may advise you to use a converter with a different stall speed. The cam and converter need to be matched and as close as possible to allow the whole package to work together and give you the best results possible.

Air pressure, I never thought of that one. Of course I haven't even got my hands dirty on the inside of a motor for over a decade, no need and no time for it. The last time I saw a valve job and helped was on a 1980 2.3L Mustang when I was 13 years old and that as of yesterday was 16 years ago.

markwondi said:

Also, you shouldn't need to worry about dropping a valve, so long as you have air pressure in the cylinder, and if you want to be extra careful there are clips that clip on the grooves of the valve stem as insurance.

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Yep, just an air compressor and a hose to screw into the spark plug holes is all that is needed. I use the valve stem hoses, but if you use them, make sure you take the schrader valve out before using.

BlueStreak03 said:

Air pressure, I never thought of that one. Of course I haven't even got my hands dirty on the inside of a motor for over a decade, no need and no time for it. The last time I saw a valve job and helped was on a 1980 2.3L Mustang when I was 13 years old and that as of yesterday was 16 years ago.

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Amazing how the simple solutions work the best a lot of the time huh. Hey, is there a rule of thumb for shaving decks on the heads for these motors? I'm curious how much would have to come off to get an apprecable increase in compression.

no exact rule, but .010" = ~!.2-.3 compression increase.

BlueStreak03 said:

Amazing how the simple solutions work the best a lot of the time huh. Hey, is there a rule of thumb for shaving decks on the heads for these motors? I'm curious how much would have to come off to get an apprecable increase in compression.

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:kooky: thanks :kooky: