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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The 76 I'm picking up is knocking and needs to be torn out to get fixed so I figured I should build it while I have the chance instead of later. It's got the 4 speed transmission. I'd like to have a streetable car but still be able to lite my tires and leave some people behind. What is the main few things holding these 302's back from making horsepower? Will newer age heads work on the old style block? Anything I should expect?
 
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http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/mustang-ii-tech/165082-1977-mustang-vs-1988-mustang.html

The basics that need to be done are all described here on how to make your II competitive with 5.0L Mustangs (roughly 13 second 1/4-mile times)

From there, how you go faster depends on your budget.

Nitrous Oxide's overall initial investment isn't much, about $800 for a good 75hp or so kit, but then you've got the added expense of refilling the bottle every time. This is actually a great choice though for a car that won't be seeing the track much, (as you'll only be using it at the track if you don't want your car getting impounded possibly permanently, depending on state laws) because it allows you to keep the engine's overall performance level mild, just focusing on building up for durability and some improvements in airflow and fuel flow, keeping streetability and fuel economy higher.

Building a stroker out of your engine is a much higher cash outlay initially, but the cost is pretty much a one-time deal (not accounting for fuel economy) if you buy a quality kit and put it in right.

Speed costs money, how much do you have to spend? That's the age-old question. Going fast doesn't have to cost a fortune, you can trade parts or work for parts you need (which is how I got the E303 cam, freshly-machined 5.0 block, and set of forged pistons sitting in my garage right now) but you're either going to have to work hard at your job for the money for the parts you'll need, or you'll have to work hard at finding the right person that has what you need and needs something you can provide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
My father is going to be nice and help me build the engine and i'm throwing some money his way but what these company's are asking for top end kits is not what I want to pay. I'd like at least 300+ horsepower from 1500 bucks.I don't want to break the bank but I don't want to putt putt around that much anymore. I'm gonna probably gonna buy some of these parts second hand. I just want to know what is going to get me where I want to be for a least amount of money. I know the age old Fast/Reliable/Cheap saying but damn.
 
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I'm gonna probably gonna buy some of these parts second hand.
That's actually a great way to save some serious cash while building up a nice ride.

Check our swap meets, junkyards (self-service yards are the best), Ebay, Craigslist, you name it.

The current engine in my '76 is a total junkyard dog. $10 each for the finned aluminum valve covers (compared to new ones that are nearly identical for $200) $25 for the Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, and the Holley I just took off of it was $20 at the junkyard. The distributor also came from there ($40) as did some various brackets and fitting ($2 each).

I had the intake and the valve covers sandblasted at my local machine shop ($10 for all of it) and sprayed them all with hi-heat clear coat, they look fantastic and I saved over $500 in parts costs.

I got a killer deal on an Edelbrock carburetor new in the box, so it went on the Mustang and the Holley's moving over to my Chevy (which currently has an Edelbrock that's too big for the engine, that one will probably hit Ebay, where some guy out there will get a killer deal and I'll get to recoup some cash) re-using good old parts is another way to save money as you go.

I've got a set of ported-and-polished E7TE heads sitting on my shelf that'll be going on my dad's engine that I got in trade for some old parts I had laying around.

Put some work into it, do some digging, $1500 is doable for a nice engine IF you do the work yourself and work harder to find the parts instead of ordering out of a catalog.
 

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If you are building a 12 second car you should also look at gears for the rear end, that should help especialy if you are now running 2.79 or 3.00.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Definitely going with 4.10's
 

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What most people dont know is that horsepower only gets you so far. Since the II is so dang light, is dosen't take much to run high 10's. I have a street/strip 78 t-top with a 331 stroker. I know its not putting out no more than 520hp and the first time i took it to the track, i got a 10.78 ET and a big ol fine for not having a cage, 5 point harness and fuel cell.:weeps
 

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big time! after the $345 fine and the 3 week track ban, i got a harness, fuel cell, and this tuesday i should have my cage here and in the car. that'll show em.
 
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