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I am going to help my friend install his new AOD he got for his 89GT but neither of us have done this and was curious if anybody could guide me on the right path of what to do and how. Also if they had any pointers or things we should do while we are changing it out. Right now if you put his car in drive it makes a loud clicking noise!!! sounds like metal sheet laying against a bolt on the flywheel. (check starter already). It also leaks tranny fluid like crazy. Thanks!
 

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Is that thin "block plate" installed between the trans and the engine?
Also check to see if it's bent and rubbing on i.e. torque converter bolts

Also, do you have a good, firm first gear? It might be something to do
with the low one-way clutch slipping which might make a ratcheting sound.

Where's the leak? If from the pass front of the trans, check to make
sure the O Ring is installed on the lower end of the dipstick tube.

If it's the rear of the trans, it would be the output shaft seal.

If it's the front out of the bottom of the bellhousing, it would be
the input shaft (converter snout) seal.

If it's around the pan, remove the pan, clean the bolts and the
bolt holes with carb spray and blow or air dry them, then use
a little blue loctite on clean/dry threads and torque to factory
specs and let sit a couple hours for the loctite to set up.

No more pan leaks.

If it's from between the tailshaft housing and the main case,
it's the gasket inbetween. Check the tightness on the bolts.

If it's from either side of the trans (least likely) it might be
one of the galley plugs leaking, or one of the fittings on the
cooler lines on the right side.

Make sure to mark which line comes off which - the return
line on the AOD is the bottom one. They're 1/2" wrench fittings.

Here's info on removing/installing an AOD, and some related info
that may be of help. In addition, pour at least a quart of fluid
into the converter before you install it, and make SURE it goes
all the way on - there should be 3 definite steps that you should
feel as it engages the input shafts then the flat spots on the
converter snout need to go into the corresponding flat spots
inside of the pump, which would be the last step.

If at ALL possible, you should install a fresh converter.
Better than a stock reman, which are VERY low stall,
one reasonable cost option is www.roadrunnerconverters.com
who rebuild them, beef them up, and make them a somewhat
higher stall for a very reasonable cost.

Also, if you find anything other than gray sludge in the pan
in the one you take out, esp if you find ANY significant amount
of metal particles, you really need a new radiator (to get a clean
radiator cooler) or you'll be putting debris right back into the
new trans which can, among other things, wear the sealing rings
on the stator support and make the new trans fail in fairly
short order.

Even without finding anything more than very few metal particles,
you should flush the lines and the cooler. You can get kits to
do this, or blow solvent thru them, then once it's blowing clean,
follow up with blowing some fresh clean trans fluid thru it and
make sure that comes out clean before hooking up to the new
trans.

For setting the throttle valve pressure, either get a decent
oil pressure gauge and attach to the right side of the trans
and go thru the procedure listed on the tci trans website
using the spacer block (same thickness for the efi cable as for
carb linkage), OR to get a ballpark setting do this:

1) make sure the throttle body is on low idle at the throttle arm
2) release the little lock on the adjuster assy as shown on tci
and gently pull the inner cable out till there's no slack
3) reapply the lock on the adjuster assy and reinstall on
the throttle arm, making sure you have all the slack
out of the inner cable at that point. Also check to make
sure you can get full throttle travel when adjusted.
4) If shifts are soft and/or early, pull the inner cable out
1 notch at a time till you get decent shifts.
5) If you get hard / late shifts, adjust the inner cable IN
1 notch at a time till you get decent shifts.
6) A little on the firm side is better as your trans won't
have as much internal slip.

You can also check on the www.becontrols.com site for
more adjustment instructions/info

Do NOT overlook or take this step lightly - do it carefully!
Otherwise you can fry your trans in a VERY short distance.
That would also be a good time to replace the plastic bushing
that hooks the tv cable & adjuster to the throttle body arm
(which can break and fry your trans from lack of tv pressure)
with the Ford brass replacement, available at the dealer.

Also some info on making an AOD live with various levels of
power and abuse

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article48.html
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article91.html
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article111.html
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article93.html

Good luck!
 
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