Are 127350 comp cams right for me?

depends on your engine set up and if you plan on supercharging it.if your going for the n/a set up chose a cam with less valve overlap 108-110 degrees is ideal for bottom end power and 112-116 is ideal for midrange and top end. depending on the application if it's an all out racer then .300 lift and higher for all out race and .300 and lower is ideal for street/ daily driver.

buildingsleeper said:

depends on your engine set up and if you plan on supercharging it.

if your going for the n/a set up chose a cam with less valve overlap 108-110 degrees is ideal for bottom end power and 112-116 is ideal for midrange and top end.

depending on the application if it's an all out racer then .300 lift and higher for all out race and .300 and lower is ideal for street/ daily driver.

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I understand what you're saying but your numbers are wrong.

For an NA build, Theoretically, You'd want tighter LSA (106-110 =more valve overlap) to help with scavenging. The tighter LSA does build more peaky low end torque, These cams will generally have a very rough idle,, For these 3v's, Idle quality and low speed driving will suffer. You'll need a tuner that knows what he's doing to get it right.

The wider LSA (112-118 =less overlap) so you aren't loosing power by pushing some of the new A/F charge down the exhaust with FI . Wider LSA cams may make less peak power, but have a flatter torque curve. These cams don't have much lope and idle pretty tame.

The advertised lift on 3v cams are .436/.439" and 179/199 duration, Lobe lift usually isn't quoted, but IIRC it's half the advertised so a .300 cam lobe is a REALLY REALLY big cam on a 3v.

"Big" cams for the 3v are the SPR cams, the 500/550/600 grinds.


There really isn't enough difference between the '300' and '350' grinds to choose one over the other, they'll both work well NA or FI. I ran the 300's with my TVS last year. I gained roughly 22+hp and tq from 3500rpms up to 6600. I had had 4.10's installed so those numbers would've been 4/5 higher (so 27or so hp on average) with the 3.31's I was running.

You will loose a little down low with the 300's (and it's noticeable) but nobody races under 3000rpms so it doesn't matter.


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That's the cam that will give you the best gains while still be good for daily use. If you don't plan on going FI then I would get the 300s instead of the 350s. After that the more aggresive cams give you issues with low speed cam surge and are more of a pain to live with on a daily basis. The more supprting mods (intake and exhaust) that you have with them the more gains you will see.

127500 comp cams, I've been reading, give great gains and are arguably one of the best cams for stock heads N/A. They require phase limiters/lock outs, retainers, and some new springs. They also sound great. I'm going to be getting some of these soon. They affect drive ability a little more, but I don't care about drive ability.

Are you looking to stay N/A for ever? This is what I'm planning on.

NotaHybrid said:

127500 comp cams, I've been reading, give great gains and are arguably one of the best cams for stock heads N/A.

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That's way too much cam for a stock engine / heads setup. Those make their power in the high rpm's where stock, street engines rarely stay for long. Your going to sacrifice low rpm power and torque so sticking with a more conservative cam like the 300's would probably actually make your car quicker as you'll have a larger area under the power curve.

Without supporting mods the 500's won't make a lot of power up top, either.

FYI - my engine is still pulling strong at 7500 rpm's with the 127350 cams, horsepower still rising. So agree - the 300 / 350's are a great all-around choice. Slight idle, good driveability, and good power :bigthumbsup

hubkap said:

That's way too much cam for a stock engine / heads setup. Those make their power in the high rpm's where stock, street engines rarely stay for long. Your going to sacrifice low rpm power and torque so sticking with a more conservative cam like the 300's would probably actually make your car quicker as you'll have a larger area under the power curve.

Without supporting mods the 500's won't make a lot of power up top, either.

FYI - my engine is still pulling strong at 7500 rpm's with the 127350 cams, horsepower still rising. So agree - the 300 / 350's are a great all-around choice. Slight idle, good driveability, and good power :bigthumbsup

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I disagree with the 500's being too much cam for a stock engine/heads and they still make decent power with no supporting mods, they just make more with them.

I do agree with low rpm power being lost, but I guess it's how each person runs their car or how they want to. The 127350 are a better street cam. I'm just more of a big cam type of guy, plus I'm not going FI as you are.

When does your torque start to drop off?

hubkap said:

That's way too much cam for a stock engine / heads setup. Those make their power in the high rpm's where stock, street engines rarely stay for long. Your going to sacrifice low rpm power and torque so sticking with a more conservative cam like the 300's would probably actually make your car quicker as you'll have a larger area under the power curve.

Without supporting mods the 500's won't make a lot of power up top, either.

FYI - my engine is still pulling strong at 7500 rpm's with the 127350 cams, horsepower still rising. So agree - the 300 / 350's are a great all-around choice. Slight idle, good driveability, and good power :bigthumbsup

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