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Discussion Starter #1
I've read all kinds of peoples opinions on bolt on mods. My question is are they really worth it, swapping to a boss intake, or new coil packs, different throttle body you get the jist. If it really is worth it what are the bolt on mods i should look at getting. 2012 gt 5.0
 

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I'm guessing you have an earlier Mustang, with the 4.6 V8?

If so, the only "bolt on" that is going to get you to Coyote-level performance is a supercharger. You can spend a ton of money on all the other stuff and never get there.

A complete supercharger kit will run around $6K and get you to better-than-Coyote hp and torque. Compare that to the cost of trading in the whole car, then decide.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm guessing you have an earlier Mustang, with the 4.6 V8?

If so, the only "bolt on" that is going to get you to Coyote-level performance is a supercharger. You can spend a ton of money on all the other stuff and never get there.

A complete supercharger kit will run around $6K and get you to better-than-Coyote hp and torque. Compare that to the cost of trading in the whole car, then decide.


No i got a 2012 5.0
 

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No i got a 2012 5.0
d'oh, read that wrong, though you said you were looking at a 2012 5.0

In that case . . . my personal point of view is: do it for fun, if you like to tinker with stuff and it is your hobby ; don't expect a "return on investment" and you won't be disappointed
 

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Depends on the combination but, overall, yes 5.0 Bolt-on's are worth the money.

Mike
 

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It depends on the goal.

If you just want to tweak what the factory provided, stay close to stock, and you want to invest a few dollars here and there... Bolt-ons make sense. IMO, they primarily exist because people like to work on their cars and it gives them a reason to.

Now, if your goal is X amount of (serious) horsepower and you're willing to budget yourself over time? Skip the bolt ons, and save money while you decide between a turbo and a blower.
 

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Also... The Mustang gives you a supercar-level engine and a suspension nearly as bad as a minivan's.

I don't get why people want to make that imbalance worse. Have you *driven* a new Stang with upgraded shocks and struts? I have, and I'm not touching that magnificent motor until the suspension is addressed, because the difference is just that amazing.
 

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I've read all kinds of peoples opinions on bolt on mods. My question is are they really worth it, swapping to a boss intake, or new coil packs, different throttle body you get the jist. If it really is worth it what are the bolt on mods i should look at getting. 2012 gt 5.0

Hey King,

Great question but the answer really is yes!

Bolt ons really wake the car up especially on the coyote platform.

My personal 2014 Track Pack 5.0 picked up major horsepower and time in the 1/4 mile with extremely simple mods.

With an intake, full exhaust, and a tune she made 412 RWHP and went 11.9 @ 118. That's moving!

I always recommend starting off with a good intake and tune kit. I personally run and love the JLT CAI and BAMA X4 Tuner Combo Kit and I would highly recommend it.

What are your future plans with the car? Are you looking to stay mostly stock? Are you looking for boost?


Feel free to reach out if you have any questions, I'm always here to help!

- Will
 

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If you do a search, you will find that when HRM decided to hot rod a 5.0, they found that swapping the intake provided no gain.....

with regards to CAI....
1) Your car already has one
2) The formula which is used by every air filter manufacturer in the world to determine the CFM for flat panel filters is...Flat Panel CFM= Length x Width x 6
and what you will find is the oem filter will handle everything that engine could suck in plus 10% more.....
Now show me how sticking a filter that will flow 900 CFM will increase the performance of an engine that can only suck in a max of XXX cfm that the oem filter can easily provide...it can't...the basic laws of physics apply here.

In 2012 on jay Leno’s garage, when inquired, Fords Mustang Chief Engineer Dave Pericak specifically stated that the use of an aftermarket CAI will do nothing to gain any power.
With regards to tunes....
To start with IMHO, going with a mail order tune is really no different than your grandparents taking their car to "Tune-Masters" for a tune-up......yes, they did change the plugs etc, but they were not there to fine tune the car just find the middle of the road where the car runs and get it out of the shop. Mail order tuners are no different...anyone who claims they can tune your car without ever seeing it is selling camel poop- period! The cannot tune your engine without seeing the data specific to altitude, humidity & fuel burning characteristics- just because you use 93 octane does not mean the 93 octane they used on their dyno (tuners) has the same burning characteristics...nor do they typically address the seasonal fuel blends for each region of the US.

With regards to “Tuners”, years ago it was the best that most could do to enhance the ignition timing, fuel curve, transmission shift points, etc. It is important to verify the “Tuner” is ASE certified in ECM & Trans programming & current. Plenty of persons advertise their programs to be the best & offer custom tunes, but very few have credentials in these areas. Some of these “geniuses” have caused damage to a few vehicles- just jump over to flatratetech.com & read comments from the MSE techs.

Perhaps what is equally important is the parameters that can be adjusted are set by the OEM vehicle software…so there is really no “magic” in what they are doing anyway. If you look at the dyno charts from many of these supposed HP/TQ increases, they are typically around 5%-7% at peak rpm ranges…….guess what, 5% is a standard deviation even amongst mfg dynos and if you go to this link Page Not Found - Ford Racing Performance Parts the engineers at Ford racing have a article on just exactly how these “tuners” play games with the hp/tq ratings, how calibration can cause misleading dyno results, & some of the “tricks” that are used to gain supposed power increases when in fact, mis-managing your engine.....and the most important item is……these "mail order tuners' are not regulated like any other auto repair shop in the US...so if they "damage" your car...gee, sorry...sue me!

IMHO, if you live near any major city there are excellent tuning specialists with dynos who for the same price (if not less) will tune your vehicle taking into consideration your specific needs including environmental conditions, for your specific vehicle. IMHO, the best bang for the buck!

If you are comfortable and understand how to tune a vehicle, you can also do this yourself. There are several software programs available, that “Speak Common English” that will allow you to tune your vehicles ECM. One company is HP Tuners, they have a website….they offer two core programs, one for those who are doing dyno tuning and one for the home-garage mechanic (which is priced at about the same as most of the “canned tunes on the market) …this version limits the span of adjustments as a safeguard against doing something outside of the oem scope……basically, keeps you from doing something “too stupid by accident” (grin)

If you are dead set on a mail order tune, the only one I would recommend is Blue Oval Chips...the gent is a Ford MSE (PCM/Trans) and has been around for decades (20+)

Headers....

very well documented that the oem components flow within 5 hp of just about any of the aftermarket headers....if you want to spend $ for bling, ok, otherwise its a waste for a street use vehicle.

and lastly, your car is likely still under oem warranty and while there are laws that prohibit voiding your warranty without cause as a result of aftermarket products, even if you unload an aftermarket tune it can still be detected/identified..

Ecoboost motors and PCM flashing - FORD - FlatRateTech
Posted 07 June 2012 - 12:30 AM
Fullsizeblazin “They most definitely can! Once they pull the Mode 9 file on the IDS all your dirty little secrets will be revealed and your warranty will be promptly voided.”

Hope this helps,

Beechkid
 

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Don't forget gains in traction and elimination of wheel hop with some rear suspension modifications. Tires too as they bolt on.
 

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. . .
2) The formula which is used by every air filter manufacturer in the world to determine the CFM for flat panel filters is...Flat Panel CFM= Length x Width x 6
and what you will find is the oem filter will handle everything that engine could suck in plus 10% more.....
Now show me how sticking a filter that will flow 900 CFM will increase the performance of an engine that can only suck in a max of XXX cfm that the oem filter can easily provide...it can't...the basic laws of physics apply here.
. . .
Curious about this --

What is the pressure drop across the filter that they use for that testing?

There must be some standard . . . the whole reason we change the intake and filters is to reduce the pressure drop, aka reduce the resistance in the intake. A filter that will flow more CFM at a given pressure drop, will will also have less pressure drop (resistance) at a given CFM.

You can't just say "this filter will flow X CFM" ; it has to be "this filter will flow X CFM at Y psi pressure drop"

. . . curious . . .
 

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Hmmm, can`t get into those Flat rate tech forums unless you are a member.
 

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OP a good tune is all you need. My car was perfect strait from the factory. The auto Brembo car has a great launch.:punk:
 

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I really can't speak for the bolt-ons. My tuner is actually still in the box. Hope to get the tune installed this spring. But I will say this. Suspension, suspension, suspension. And after that....tires.
 

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OP,

How long is a piece of rope? When you know this you will know if bolt on mods are worth it.

my used exhaust/CAI/MGW shifter and new speakers were worth it.
 

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For power? Headers (GOOD headers, not cheap headers) a dyno tune, CAI, catback, and you'll be 425 wheel+ with a good torque curve. I would skip the boss intake unless you live at the drag strip- it makes the engine peaky and you lose midrange and low end.

Suspension...the sky is the limit, just figure out a goal and a budget. Want to spend $500 on dampers? ok. Want to spend $500 on each damper? You can do that too.

Tires and wheels are huge. Get a wider tire with a stickier compound on a lighter wheel, and it's like having your 200lb friend in the front seat or not.
 

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lowering springs but no adjustable panhard bar in that package?

The adjustable panhard bar is the long bar in the middle of the pic with poly bushings at each end.
 
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