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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys
Ok so heres the scoop i have an 04 3.9 liter v6 and it seems to me that my lifter is going on the drivers side. Now, i have a couple exhause leaks but i am for sure this is not one of them. This is because i held two rags over both tail pipes and the sound of this taping did not get louder however my other exhaust leak on the cat did. I instaled a windstar kit mac longtubes mac h pipe magnaflow magnapacks new iridium sparkplugs new wires and my diablo tune. Is there any idea as to what this might be or any other tricks i could use to further investigate the problem. Because i really dont wanna rip this engine all apart to get to somethin that might not be broken if u no wat i mean.
Its poreing out right now soo ill be puting a video up tomarrow.
Thanks for the help guys
 

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Valve covers are not that hard to get off, it's 5 bolts, undo it and see if one is broken or out of place if that's what you think the problem is
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
crap i thought i put this part in on my first post the bolts on the cover are striped to **** and i cant get a wrench on them theres three like this and idk why the person that owned the car b4 me was trying to get it off but does anyone have anyideas of how to get the bolts off that are stripes i cant get a saw zaw in there to cut of the bolts not enouph room theres two on the passanger side that are striped so idk wat the hell this person was tryin to doo cause the car was stock when i got it.
 

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First pick up some new bolts before you do anything, that way once they are off you won't have to reuse them til you get new ones, I forget the amount of space but what about vice grips or pliers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have to pick up some CorrosionX Lubricant and Penetrant because i tried with some vicegrips and wd-40 but i cant turn them i cant get any leverage with the vice grips im hopeing once i spray that on there and let it sit overnight it will loosin it up otherwise idk what to do and im thinkin of buying crome valve covers so when i get these off i will change the gaskets and put all new hardware on
Thanks for the help man
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
BTW how do u like the cross drilled slotted roters and the t lok i was thinkin of doin that next but didnt no if the roters really made that much of a difference in stopeing did u change ur gears on the rear to anything different or did u keep the stock ones
 

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BTW how do u like the cross drilled slotted roters and the t lok i was thinkin of doin that next but didnt no if the roters really made that much of a difference in stopeing did u change ur gears on the rear to anything different or did u keep the stock ones
the rotors work great with the ceramic pads and stainless lines, very firm brakes and cheap, i got the brake pads and rotors for $165 to my door (all four wheels) and the lines for about $140

Drilled Slotted Brake Rotors Ceramic Pads Front & Rear | eBay
Russell Performance 693210 - Russell Street Legal Brake Line Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

i just left the factory gears in there since i do a lot of highway driving (hush sean, its an auto they suck) i can already spin on the shift from 1-2 gear, i don't really want too much more or i might go sideways :heha: get a bearing kit when you put it in, especially if you get gears

edit: i thought about getting some valve covers for the looks but they cost more than i thought they should haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
were would i get a lifter should i try super six or
GSS Motorsports
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow nice im orderin me a pair of those tonight thats the cheepest i have seen them.... And k will do when i doo the rear ill make sure to get a bearing kit. Lol nice how much hores power do u think ur pushin with ur car. and yea i really wasnt going to get those covers because they were really expensive but i needed to get new ones so i figured since i did the windstar and coil wires everything els looked nice with the black intake and red wires that i would put a lil extra out for the covers but yea i really dont know why there so expensive..
 

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were would i get a lifter should i try super six or GSS Motorsports
buy ford replacement parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i can't stress that enough, it cost me $160+ when i saved $40 on a cam sync :nono:
2002 Ford Mustang - Engine Rocker Arm | FordParts.com (it says 2002 but works for all our 99-04's)

Wow nice im orderin me a pair of those tonight thats the cheepest i have seen them.... And k will do when i doo the rear ill make sure to get a bearing kit. Lol nice how much hores power do u think ur pushin with ur car.
thats all four wheels rotors and pads in that link, i will say one thing with that i had to grind nibs down off back of pads to make it set right (they are used to align the metal shim on back so don't grind all the way down as they do serve a purpose), but other than that they perform perfectly, just have a grinder when you go to put them on! haha

the car is around 220-225 hp and 240-245 tq, plenty of fun for now.......

edit: they are so expensive 1. BBK 2. aluminum (suppose to be lightweight so they charge more :laugh:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
nice gives ya more of a get up nd goo. and ok, goin with the ford replacment lifter Just ordered the rotors sooo ill be shore to grab the grinder when i go to install everything thats an awsome deal for everything i was lookin at rotors on american muscle and it was ten times more expensive without the pads. thanks for all ur help man much appreciated. o i got a guestion for ya how many miles r u gettin on a tank of gas kuz except for the gss motersports part we have almost the same setup with dual exhaust lt's and the windstar intake im gettin like 205 210 miles on one tank. i got new spark wires iridium plugs and i didnt no if maybe the combo of the windstar with the lt's screwd my gas mialage. did you have to get a special tune.
 

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They need to be tuned for but it wouldn't be drastic or anything, right now I have only put a couple tanks through it, ~18 with 70% city, ~21 with 70% highway, and I got mid 23's all the way back from KY to AR (doing ~80 the whole way). I still have factory injectors so it can't exactly suck a crapload more. Np I like to help with what I can, btw I noticed you have an offroad h pipe, if you have a decent amount of stop and go then that's your mpg lose, you lost some of your low end so it struggles a little more to get up to speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hmmm maybe ill get some magnaflow cats and weld them up because its becomeing a rather large hole in my wallet idk how much gas is were u are but were i am its 4.19 a gallon and its startin to become a pain to keep fillin upp all the time i tried fuil system cleaner and all that but somethins just not addin up im gettin like 12 to 13 and thats 65% highway when im goin back and forth from college
 

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hmmm maybe ill get some magnaflow cats and weld them up because its becomeing a rather large hole in my wallet idk how much gas is were u are but were i am its 4.19 a gallon and its startin to become a pain to keep fillin upp all the time i tried fuil system cleaner and all that but somethins just not addin up im gettin like 12 to 13 and thats 65% highway when im goin back and forth from college
Gas is 3.69 for premium here, 12-13 mpg's?!?!? Unless you drive with your foot on the floor something is messed up man, first check your coolant to see if it has oil in it, is it near time for an oil change? Whenever you do one look for the antifreeze in it, that poor of mileage sounds like a blown head gasket to me, everyone who has one reports about that type of mileage.... Is the car throwing any codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No no codes i check all the time with my diablo. And i do need to change my coolant, not kuz its low but its an amber color well now lighter. last time i changed my oil there was nothing weird i did see kind of a milky white color on the oil cap but when i talked to ford they said its just a lil condinsation. i hope its not that but i dont have any of the sighns for that like over heating and stuff like that.......... wait i doo have blue smoke every once and a while when i rev it and some one told me i should get it checked out coud it have something to do with that .:scared
 

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blue smoke is oil being burnt....... usually blow by from piston rings
coolant is suppose to be green, this sounds bad if its turning a tanish color, oil mixing..... get it checked out soon
 
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Tan coolant, milky oil, and blue smoke.
Bad stuff.

I would not drive that car until you can nail down what is wrong. Driving it will only damage the car more and maybe irreparably so, if it isn't already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
FML!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :nervousi found one problem that ticking noise i was hearing was a spark plug not all the way connected and i guess it was makeing an arking sound. then i checked the other ones and found another one behind the break booster not clicked in... Im hopeing this fixed one problem but now it seems i have another wich realy sux... i guess ill load it on a trailer and bring it to my sisters boy friends shop and have him look at it next. in a couple minuts ill load some pictures of the coolant the milky brown was only on the cap when i did my oil change a month ago there were no traces of coolant in the oil that i drained into a pan so idk what to do know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
heres some pix of the coolant and the oil cap theres nothing on it today but i just got beck from have my new tired put on.....
ok nvm for some reason i cant put up a video so i tried to attach pictures and first it said a security token was missing w.e that ment and then it said the page cannot be displayed. when i get back from work ill try to put something on youtube and then post the link.
 
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