[Fryguy_pa]

There is probably one thing about the Mustang that pains me, and it is the brakes. I do not feel that they slow the car fast enough and I would like to remedy this situation.

I did some searching on the Baer website and found that they make new rotors for the Mustang called Eradispeed. I did some additional searching and they are like $550 a pair, kinda steep.

I was wondering if anyone has these, or knows anything about them.

 

[meatball]

Brakes

Baers on a 96. Rears are Eradispeed+1 which moves stock caliper outboard on special bracket - recently removed rears because new deep-dish 17x10.5 Bullitts wouldn't fit over them. ID on deep-dish 10.5 wheels less than regular non-deep-dish 10.5's New pics in Gallery on second page.

 

[redbullet]

From 60 - 0 in 120 ft isn't bad. The 05 vette is 112. 04 Cobra is at 134 ft. Throw on some more aggresive pads and it'll stop way better. Don't get sucked into the drilled and slot crap. It's all show. Modern pads have reduced the need for those things to next to non existent. Stick some steel braided hoses on it to help reduce the spongy pedal feel. I prefer the Performance Friction "Z" rated pads.

Going to Baers Eradispeed will require a bigger wheel.

 

[Fryguy_pa]

I took your advice and just ordered some new pads for the 'Stang. The ones that I ordered are the Hawk High Performance Street Brake Pads and I ordered them from Tire Rack.

I will let you know how good they work.

Oh, and thanks for the pointer for the steel braided lines, that is a great idea! Not only for the feel, but for the added safety.

 

[roboz]

I took your advice and just ordered some new pads for the 'Stang. The ones that I ordered are the Hawk High Performance Street Brake Pads and I ordered them from Tire Rack.

I will let you know how good they work.

Fryguy ..also curious how they work out for you as brakes are my next upgrade. I assumed a bigger rotor with like a 4 piston caliper just from the larger brake area would have some significant impact. The Slotted/Drill design figure was for better heat dissapation ...but If Pads & lines can suffice ..that'd be a nice cost effective alternative.

 

[Johnstone610]

definately keep us updated this will save a ton of money!

 

[Fryguy_pa]

I will let you know how it works out. They are special order, so it may be a few days before I get them. But I will keep y'all in da loop.

 

[redbullet]

First came the holes, and the cracking. To fix the cracking they used slots. Then some brainyiac got the idea to do both. Then they had dimples, do give the benefit of holes w/o the cracking.

You you use an aggresive pad on a rotor that has been drilled or slotted, you will get chomping of the pad. It will rattle your teeth. And holes and slots wear the pads pretty quick as well.

Call Baer and pressure them and they will tell you that the holes and slots are just for show nowadays. The outgasing from the days of old, just isn't like it used to be. So to combat this, now they say it's to help keep the rotor dry in wet conditions. Well, I don't drive like an idoit in the rain. Only in the dry.

Another point of the drilled and/or slotted rotors is that the reduce surface area. And thats where the meat and taters are.

 

[sandyman]

First came the holes, and the cracking. To fix the cracking they used slots. Then some brainyiac got the idea to do both. Then they had dimples, do give the benefit of holes w/o the cracking.

You you use an aggresive pad on a rotor that has been drilled or slotted, you will get chomping of the pad. It will rattle your teeth. And holes and slots wear the pads pretty quick as well.

Call Baer and pressure them and they will tell you that the holes and slots are just for show nowadays. The outgasing from the days of old, just isn't like it used to be. So to combat this, now they say it's to help keep the rotor dry in wet conditions. Well, I don't drive like an idoit in the rain. Only in the dry.

Another point of the drilled and/or slotted rotors is that the reduce surface area. And thats where the meat and taters are.

True but :evilchuck

 

[ultraclyde]

Is there a source for the stainless lines yet? I like the idea of firming up the pedal a little. the brakes will almost pull your eyeballs out, but I'd like a bit firmer feel.. And for my eyes to actually pop out, not just almost:eyepoppin The first pads I put on after factory will be an upgrade, and it's a good time to do lines as well.

 

[Fryguy_pa]

Got a call from TireRack yesterday, these are special orders and my be a few weeks before I receive them.

 

[Fryguy_pa]

Just received the new pads yesterday. I am planning on putting them on the car in about a week or so. The reason for the wait is that I just picked up a '91 Ranger 4x4 for the winter and need to get that ready first.

I will let you know how it all goes with the new 'Stang brakes as soon as I can.

Question - Any suggestions on how to record the results?

 

[redbullet]

Question - Any suggestions on how to record the results?

I'd use a pencil/pen and paper to record it. Then count how many teeth are left in the steering wheel upon braking.:laughlitt If you are short on availible teeth I would find a suitable area to test some 60 - 0 braking. You will need about a 200 ft section for the actual braking and then measure each stop. Or, you could get a 5th wheel like R&T uses or a G-Tech. This does mean that you have to test stock and aftermarket sets.

My experience is that you should notice a gain what outout actually measuring, unfortunately the butt dyno only causes arguements.

 

[Fryguy_pa]

:eyepoppin Counting teeth in the wheel is not really for me, spent waaaay too much at the dentist. :happyhapp

So, I guess it is the GTech-PRO SS then. Just looked at the GTech-Pro SS and ordered it, looks like a good unit for this test, as well as to let me know how all the bolt-on performance goodies I have added do. Always wanted to know my 1/4 mile times. Not to mention the HP and such.

I will let you know what the 0-100-0 times are before and after the changes.

Thanks!