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I bet that's what happened to you. Barton put a note in there. You're supposed to look at and measure the height of the stock reverse lock out and make sure you have the correct size by spinning the shifter.
No note, unfortunately. I may call them directly instead of going through AM.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I just received my barton shifter and 2 post bracket - the very first thing in the instructions tells you to measure for the rev lockout as some 2013 require some adjustments on the shifter arm prior to install
 

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I just received my barton shifter and 2 post bracket - the very first thing in the instructions tells you to measure for the rev lockout as some 2013 require some adjustments on the shifter arm prior to install
That would be the note I'm talking about. I would imagine not doing so would cause all kinds of havoc.
 

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as for the k-member brace and engine torque limiter... don't do if your stang is a dd... uber nvh and im sure that cudaman will attest to that..... I got the ford rscing shifter which is the same as the barton.. love it
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Installation complete in a little over a hour with no problems - there are actually two settings on the barton shifter one for 11 and 12 and one for 13 - worked perfect - Totally different feel - very solid shifts - I got the two post bracket which is slight overkill but it will last for sure.
Day or two to get used to it and then the real test at the track.

One thing to remember it is a lot more solid, hence takes some more effort to shift - that is a positive for us but if it is just a road car you may not like it.
 

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Glad you're happy. Once again, no mention of it in my instructions. Perhaps it was old inventory (pre 2013). Either way, very disappointed AM rep made no mention of adjustment when I called to return.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
1st night at track with new shifter - it is great - had the most consistent night ever- all shifts were right on and solid - never a doubt and it really builds confidence - good investment
 

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No note, unfortunately. I may call them directly instead of going through AM.
No note in mine that I bought about a month ago either. Also nothing said about it in their website installation video. I finally figured out what was necessary by doing a search on this forum. It is a big improvement however.

Dan
 

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No note in mine that I bought about a month ago either. Also nothing said about it in their website installation video. I finally figured out what was necessary by doing a search on this forum. It is a big improvement however. Dan
Glad you posted about the video. I used that too. Another plus is I don't need to defend myself from the "terrible driver" possibility by mentioning my 12 Mustangs, cutting 1.4 60's, trapping in the 150's, treeing Mustang greats like Mike Murillo, appearing in 3 Mustang Mags, blah, blah, blah.
 

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Love my Barton, just push straight up from 2 -> 3 with my palm and never, ever miss a shift. If I try and guide it myself I may miss - let the shifter do it for me and it works every time.
 

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I like my barton allot, had it installed when I was still new to stick. I instantly felt comfortable with it. Noise is a little loud but not bad unless you're going for dead silence.

One important thing is the shifter mount changed in 2013. If you have the new one it wont fit properly, and you wont be able to get in first. The new barton's have a way to adjust to that. Make sure the person installing knows about this.
 

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Im frustrated! I bought the Barton two post bracket first for my 2014 GT, the shifter is on the way. I bracket went on easy, very well made and super sturdy! The shifts with the standard shifter are right on! no misses at all.. Ok now the floor board noise! guys how do I get rid of it?? I get the fact that this thing is bolted right to the bottom of the car, I understand the harmonic effect of the trany noise coming up from the bottom. Im still going to beat this!!! where exactly does the dynomat go? under the car in the trany tunnel, or under the carpet by the shifter? I cant be the only one bitching about this!!
Jeff
 

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Put dynamat or black silicone between the bracket and the floor. That might help a bit.
 

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Might putting it between the 2 pole bracket and the car not be as sturdy of a mount? I have just the 2 pole mounting bracket and all of my shifting issues were cured. We decided to just go this route because we didn't want the short throw at this time. I can't believe the crap ford uses as a mounting bracket. Soft rubber and zip ties.....
 

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I don't own the Barton, I have an MGW, my shifts are faultless. Looking at it objectively, What I like about the MGW is the whole lower shift box is replaced with a CNC'd unit with stiffer shift rail guides, it is overall a much more precise design, the shifter is adjustable to the left to allow a perfect 1-2 shift, the spring to third tension is adjustable (by removing spring cap) and MGW is super commited to making this shifter as quiet (or quieter than stock) Their twin post bracket is extremely wide to eliminate torsional twist, they enclose dynamat, a thicker additional insulation pad, and a heat shield made of stainless below the shifter, with insulation. All this for $30. more than a Barton, certainly something to consider.

My 1-2 shifts are on the money, 2-3, 3-4 shifts a no brainer, and 4-5 slips in with just slight pressure from the heel of your hand, 6th gear slight pressure to the right, straight in. That shifter is worth every penny, you can see when you install it, MGW people are committed to making the best shifter on the market.
 

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If the noise Is coming from the shifter, you might want to make sure the lip of shaft is right against the shifter bracket. I had a little too much noise for my liking and I noticed the end of the shaft was just a little off from touching the bracket. All I did was loosen the two bolts on the bracket and moved it so it was touching the lip of the shaft. I also put lock tight on the threads so they would not loosen up. I also put a Dyno mat right underneath the OEM shifter insulation. I used the OEM insulation as a template and cut the Dynomat accordingly.There's videos on YouTube on how to remove the shifter console and it's not hard to do.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I agree 110% with BOSS MAN but will add if you order the MGW and tell them you are a member here you get 5% discount so the difference in price shrinks that much more. The Factory bushings work but the MGW replaces them with ones that are so much better as you can see in the install video. I think MGW is the only shifter that replaces the factory bushings. I would also add that I had no issues with the factory shifter but that said the MGW was a big improvement.

I don't own the Barton, I have an MGW, my shifts are faultless. Looking at it objectively, What I like about the MGW is the whole lower shift box is replaced with a CNC'd unit with stiffer shift rail guides, it is overall a much more precise design, the shifter is adjustable to the left to allow a perfect 1-2 shift, the spring to third tension is adjustable (by removing spring cap) and MGW is super commited to making this shifter as quiet (or quieter than stock) Their twin post bracket is extremely wide to eliminate torsional twist, they enclose dynamat, a thicker additional insulation pad, and a heat shield made of stainless below the shifter, with insulation. All this for $30. more than a Barton, certainly something to consider.

My 1-2 shifts are on the money, 2-3, 3-4 shifts a no brainer, and 4-5 slips in with just slight pressure from the heel of your hand, 6th gear slight pressure to the right, straight in. That shifter is worth every penny, you can see when you install it, MGW people are committed to making the best shifter on the market.
 
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