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Battery Relocation

1183 Views 12 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Ninjacheezit
I'm thinking about relocating my battery to the trunk. I figure I just get a battery box put it in there run a power wire up to the old connectors and connect it but what about the grounds? I figure I just ground the battery to the car but I also have another wire on my negative terminal and it splits into three wires. I'm guessing its for the engine ground? where would I relocate these to?
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Pull a ground wire (#1or #1/0)to the engine bay along with the positive cable and install a terminal block for the negative cables.You can also connect the negative terminal of battery to the frame at trunk area(in ADDITION to negative cable to engine bay).You will get multiple opinions on this ,so do some research on your own. Good Luck.
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I thought the longer the wire the more resistance it would have so wouldn't a negative wire running all the way through my body be bad?
If you use the 1/0 ground wire it is large enough to eliminate excessive resistance and utilize the same ground points the factory wired in to the negative battery post.Just use a terminal block(in place of the negative battery post) with enough screw points for the cables needed.I find it neater and easier to troubleshoot later rather than re-installing all the wires removed from the battery negative post and trying to stretch/relocate them to the frame somewhere.My thought process is...if the factory wanted these particular wires connected directly to the battery negative post(rather than a part of the frame,unibody,engine block,etc.) then connect them back together by way of the negative terminal block rather than connecting to a ground point elsewhere on the frame,unibody/etc.A new ground cable from the new negative terminal block to the engine block(from autozone/oreillys/etc.) can be installed with terminals already crimped on both ends.Size that cable to the old battery to block cable.The smaller ground wires can have new terminals installed with a hand crimper if necessary.Just my preferred method of wiring in a battery moved to trunk.Others will just use the frame/unibody in the trunk area and not have any issues.I guess its up to you but a search will give you multiple methods and opinions.
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okay when i actually get around doing it ill give that a try. any tips on having it a nice clean install? like hiding the negative and positive wires in the engine bay somewhere.
Why would you want to do this? just asking.
no specific reason atm I just read that it helps distribute weight evenly and helps a tiny bit with traction.
Ok, cool. To let you know I did do a lot of research on this topic for the same reason you mentioned. Spent a long time hoping to do this with tons of weeks n months reading into this. Then when it came time with every part I purchased, well I looked at it once more lol. Picked up everything needed for a real neat set up too. Using the key hole in the trunk for the disconnect, 0 an 1 gauge wiring, good connectors, good housing for the fuses, a alternator disconnect safety solenoid, etc. In the end after getting all of this (spending a lot too boot) I looked once more without "clouds" in the way. Wanted to do this since day one of buying my Mustang too.

I will say this....the amount of money spent, the time installing this, the extra weight - not just over the rear tire but the WHOLE kit, the fraction of seconds off the slip - maybe, changing the battery once there is no more charge, charging the battery if needed, room it took up in the trunk, the "cool factor" every one of these issues did not equal out. Wasted a lot of money. For a car which wont see much track time this mod might not be for everyone.

A light weight battery would be better than a complete battery relocation kit done right. Plus less weight off the front end and the vehicle itself AND about the same price for a basic trunk mounted battery kit. Two and change when I looked, not quite sure on the light weight batteries these days.
For someone like yourself in such an early modding process, imo I would say for go this and save the money for something else.

Oh, the kit I put together? Still sitting in my garage, if I could find it now lol. Most in the original boxes collecting dust for close to three years or so now.

This mod was not for me and I don't want to discourage you or someone else, from trying something you (or who ever) like/s or want/s to try. Just letting you know what I found out during my venture into this mod.

Good luck in your modding an have fun!
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so you don't think it would be worth it? maybe its better to think about this as a last and final mod or if you chasing for a .1 of a second or maybe less for whatever this mod gives if any
imo ya I would do this somewhere near the last mod, if your car becomes a weekend toy just for trips to the track (plus you have another vehicle for your daily driver). In wanting traction there would be better, lighter, simpler ways then doing the battery relocation. i.e. rear lower control arms come into view. Heck, a good UPR kit with rear upper and lower control arms would be close to the same price as a battery relocation kit. I found the control arms were better to do then the relocation mod. Offered more then the relocation mod. Where you're in your modding - just looking in your sig - this might be a mod to look into if you feel.

The big thing for me was the extra added weight to the whole car, room in the trunk, including the battery changing or charging. For a fun car to drive which does not see to much track time (around two or three times per year - if lucky) I want it for fun not a trouble to change this or that, which should be simple. Every one is different.

If you still looking for weight over the tire here's something - this is not ment to be sarcastic. Want a cheap weight over the tire trick? Get a plastic box bolt it to the trunk floor over the tire, then a 40lb bag of cement. Use round head smooth cap screws / bolts - no sharp edges from the bolts in the box. Put the bag in the box. The rest of the money would go for the light weight battery up front then either remove your front sway bar or loosen it up for the track. Once done at the track an home, install or tighten up the front sway bar and remove the bag. Weight issue done with, battery charging or replacing done with, while still having weight over the rear tire.

There's your cheap and easy weight over the rear tire trick. Now during the week you have a useful place to put stuff into (in the trunk). Without it rolling all over or something important getting messed up or broken. Such as cans or bottles for some event or food items which you don't want damaged. Then looking once more (not the once more thing :) ) - do it right and make it water tight you have a very nice cooler in your trunk :) Just make sure to include a drain valve for it. Getting water out of it without is a bit of trouble, unless you have a wet/dry vac.

Good luck in your modding an have fun!
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thanks ya I actually planned on getting rear lower control arms as one of my next mods but that has to wait for just a little bit thats why I was looking into weight reduction / distribution anything that is cheap or free ha but thanks for your help ill probably just hold off on the battery relocation then since it is my daily driver
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Good choice for the next mod (thumbs up) you're doing well. Easy simple weight reduction to do? Here is some simple ones to do or ponder on or look into...Under your steering wheel remove the plastic cover you will find a metal plate weighing close to 4lbs or so. Floor mats. Remove the quad shocks and brackets - while there look for a black plastic thing in the shape of box, remove this too. Should be behind or near the back of the rear quarter panel. Light weight battery. Remove all plastic air flow parts under and in your engine bay.
Once you do the control arms there will be more weight gone. If you love AC then don't remove it :) though there's little over 30lbs to be removed here. If you love power and anti-brakes keep them. There is a small block replacing that huge unit in front of the engine. You'd save ten lbs there, if I remember right. Hood insulation, remove if not been done. You might have covers near your bakes - dust covers - you could remove these too. Their there to try an keep your wheels clean. While we're on brakes have you looked into a line lock? If you love to bake your tires (smoke shows) this is a must to save on your front n rear brakes.

You could get into striping the insulation and foam padding n the bumpers, foam all around the car, seats / rear seat delete, air bags, OEM bumpers, door bars, front sway bar, wheels/rims for lighter ones, carbon fiber trunk lid an hood, etc etc etc. Its up t you how far you want to go , how comfortable you want to be (including passengers), and how safe you want.

Of course if you want there is also the removal of everything in the trunk (over 50lbs there) and the "dog bone" to look into (close to eight there). One other simple and easy way is an aluminum driveshaft. Bit more money than the relocation kit, just simple to install plus freeing up some weight. Something good to go with the control arm, in the sense of you're down under there already with the car jacked up.
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nope never looking into line locks nor do I know what it is actually. But ya my weight reduction so far is
mach 460 rack amps and rear speakers
rear seat and belts
spare tire
jack/iron
and the aftermarket sound system that was in the car weighing a good 150 easy
bringing the total of weight reduction around 250ish and i really felt it (I think or it might be in my head)
but on my list you actually named a lot of what I planned just too cold to get rid of some stuff outside the car haha and yes I love the ac sadly can't get rid of that lol I was looking into deleting the abs but I couldn't find anything on how to do it? I was reading you have to run all new hard lines and a whole but I just got completely lost. also that goes for the cruise control to I know its under the drivers side fender and there is hoses going inside the car and in the engine bay haven't got around to that seems a lot easier I heard something about a black sphere that can also be removes with the cruise control but havn't seen it because I don't know where it is supposed to be ha but I want to remove that because it never worked and honestly I don't really plan on using it
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