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I am open for any tips, hints or tricks on replacing my STOCK Headers with some new BBK Shorty Headers. Please help this mediocre mech out :) Also - can someone tell me the true benefits I will get from adding these shorty's? (I have heard many reviews on this subject) I have a 40 series flowmaster catbacks already installed. I know the benefits are pretty limited, I am hoping to get a more throaty sound out of this project. Any help is appreciative. Thanks
 

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I am open for any tips, hints or tricks on replacing my STOCK Headers with some new BBK Shorty Headers. Please help this mediocre mech out :) Also - can someone tell me the true benefits I will get from adding these shorty's? (I have heard many reviews on this subject) I have a 40 series flowmaster catbacks already installed. I know the benefits are pretty limited, I am hoping to get a more throaty sound out of this project. Any help is appreciative. Thanks
your stock headers are shortys.. your gains will be - shine new ones :laugh:
save the money get somthing more useful and worth wile thats an expensive and exsesive install for basicly no gain.. look into new injectors if you already have good tiers and intake
 

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Yep, sorties don't do anything unless your making a ton of power.


They are easy to remove and put on.
 

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the worst part of the removal/install is the passenger side header... stupid design on fords part having the egr tubing connecting to the header 3 inches from the AC compressor. it is a real pain in the a$$ to get a wrench that needs an opening of around an inch in that little space (wrench being about 8 inches long) to tighten everything down


changed my headers to bbks about a month ago because the stock ones cracked
 

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it surely did not take me an hour and a half to even do one. it all depends on how rusted tight the EGR crap is to the headers. i had to saw off just before the threaded connection on the headers to even get the thing out... after i got it out i had to still get the threaded piece out of the egr tubing nut and i ripped my vise (bolted to table) across the basement and it still wouldn't come out till i sat it in a cup of wd40 for 4 hours....

the time for the project all depends on the egr nut tightness
 

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Weird, couple of hits of wd40, ripped all the EGR junk out, put on the egr delete kit.
 

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it surely did not take me an hour and a half to even do one. it all depends on how rusted tight the EGR crap is to the headers. i had to saw off just before the threaded connection on the headers to even get the thing out... after i got it out i had to still get the threaded piece out of the egr tubing nut and i ripped my vise (bolted to table) across the basement and it still wouldn't come out till i sat it in a cup of wd40 for 4 hours....

the time for the project all depends on the egr nut tightness
You live where there is salt used on the roads in the winter helping things corrode much more.

Weird, couple of hits of wd40, ripped all the EGR junk out, put on the egr delete kit.
Living in Texas means you DON'T have salt on the roads in the winter (even if you do not even 5% as much as Pennsylvania) so you don't have the corrosion issues people in the snow belts do.
 

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THank you all for yourt replies! I would return the headers since they sound like they are not going to make a difference - but i feel challenged now that i have heard how much of a pain in the ass they are to get them in - so I am ghoing to keep them and install them without a lift :happyhapp - That just because I am too stupid to realize how stupid I am :so Regardless - I am sure they will come in handy when I throw a TC or SC in. Thanks for the info peeps!!!
 

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it surely did not take me an hour and a half to even do one. it all depends on how rusted tight the EGR crap is to the headers. i had to saw off just before the threaded connection on the headers to even get the thing out... after i got it out i had to still get the threaded piece out of the egr tubing nut and i ripped my vise (bolted to table) across the basement and it still wouldn't come out till i sat it in a cup of wd40 for 4 hours....

the time for the project all depends on the egr nut tightness
i hope you're not talking about the nut where the EGR line bolts to the header?? if so then you wasted your time trying to get at it with the manifold still in place. that does not have to be loosened until after you remove it.

instead, you loosen these 2 bolts here to get the DPFE bracket out of your way,
View attachment 72995

then you loosen this fitting. (EGR line).
View attachment 72996

then you unbolt the manifold from the head and the flange.
then you can negotiate the header (with EGR line still attached) up and out of the engine bay.
of course the CAI will also have to be removed.
once you have the entire manifold out of the car, it'll be 10x easier to remove the EGR line and swap it to the new one. rusted or not, PB blaster and a torch, if absolutely necessary, will loosen it up.

(obviously you're not going to want to use PB Blaster and a torch at the same time...)
 

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THank you all for yourt replies! I would return the headers since they sound like they are not going to make a difference - but i feel challenged now that i have heard how much of a pain in the ass they are to get them in - so I am ghoing to keep them and install them without a lift :happyhapp - That just because I am too stupid to realize how stupid I am :so Regardless - I am sure they will come in handy when I throw a TC or SC in. Thanks for the info peeps!!!
If you go turbo you will get rid of them, if you go s/c you will wish you had long tubes.

I don't have any clue where people get that shorties are hard to install... But then again I can pull get my motor out and apart in 2 and a half hours.:scratchchin
 
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