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So in steps 2 and 6, it mentions marking the shocks when vehicle is on level ground--so one can raise it to that level during replacement.QUOTE]

1. Why? What's the purpose of this?
I'm swagging this but, assuming we are dealing with gas shocks, this would establish the amount of load on the lower bolt which could in theory have extra load put on it impacting correct torque...…..

2. How? The shock is stuck way in there; how can I get a proper reading on the old shock and transfer it to the new one?


IMHO, I wouldn't worry about it! Just change em out.
 
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I will go one past what Beechkid said, you jack the car up and put it on jack stands and the mark is where you jack the rear end back up to to remove the shocks and not have to fight with them.
Then just as Beechkid said.
 

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I support the vehicle with 2 jack stands under the rear end and remove the 2 tires. Then I remove the old shocks. I use 3 long tie wraps from end to end on the shocks and tighten them as needed to get the correct length to slip in the upper mount hole and get the lower bolt to line up. Once the bolt is in place I cut one of the ties and let the shock expand the rest of the way into the upper mounting hole. Then tighten everything up.
 

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just change em out. I strongly suggest Strange Engineering adjustable-struts too obviously.
 

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I don't have much to add except this video I was viewing today. I've never done them, or know what you would mark or why but after doing the Swaybar links (front) last week, at 85k miles I thought I might consider at least doing rear shocks too (maybe next year) and started looking around.

 

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I support the vehicle with 2 jack stands under the rear end and remove the 2 tires. Then I remove the old shocks. I use 3 long tie wraps from end to end on the shocks and tighten them as needed to get the correct length to slip in the upper mount hole and get the lower bolt to line up. Once the bolt is in place I cut one of the ties and let the shock expand the rest of the way into the upper mounting hole. Then tighten everything up.
Yup....same technique for me I just use bailing wire instead...…………..
 

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I support the vehicle with 2 jack stands under the rear end and remove the 2 tires.
Curious, (since I've never put the car on rear stands yet) do you jack up each side from the pinch welds first, place the stand under the rear end and then lower the car off the jack? I ask because I notice on mine that the bottom bolt while on the ground is accessible without lowering the sway bar (per video previously posted) and that jacked up or on stands not under the frame the suspension would hang down and interfere with the bottom bolt removal. I assume it could also be accomplished with the car backed up onto ramps without removing the tires.

Also, do folks here have a preferred rear shock replacement? I'm thinking about the possibility of doing it in the Spring if at all.
 

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Place the jack under the center pumpkin, jack the rear up and put the jack stands under the tubes about 12" on both sides of the pumpkin. Lower the car onto the jack stands and pull the jack out of the way.

While you can probably do the shocks while working around the rear tire, its so much easier with it out of the way.

I used KYB Gas A just shocks, they ride nice.
 

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Yes those are the ones I used. If you have Amazon prime, you can probably get the same price with free shipping. Walmart may also have the same price with free shipping.
 

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I changed my rear shocks today, with KYB Brand. Also replaced the front sway bar bushings this week. Will get to the front struts soon. Will use KYB or OEM Motorcraft with GT 500 strut mounts. Not a hard job, if you have the right equipment. My impact wrench saved me lots of time.
 
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Also, do folks here have a preferred rear shock replacement? I'm thinking about the possibility of doing it in the Spring if at all.
Koni Sports on all 4 corners, but I do drive it on the twisties in the mountains and the adjustability is nice.
 

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I changed my rear shocks today, with KYB Brand. Also replaced the front sway bar bushings this week. Will get to the front struts soon. Will use KYB or OEM Motorcraft with GT 500 strut mounts. Not a hard job, if you have the right equipment. My impact wrench saved me lots of time.
Notice much difference with just front bushings and the rear shocks so far? How old/many miles on the car?

I didn't find them cheaper on Amazon, $40, but you're right they would be with the free shipping, plus the fact that its 1 day delivery. I was almost tempted to buy them to either do soon or just to have them in the spring. I don't have a lot of riding left with it. It will probably go in the back of the driveway in December sometime for a couple months. Even now I only take it a couple times a week.
 

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I took it for a test drive this morning, and the ride was improved. The old parts appear to be original, and the car has 142,000 miles on it. The old bushings were very hard and split.
 

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