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What is a good estimated RWHP number if I install all of the following mods on my 2010 GT, and with a "safe" street tune, and a more aggressive tune? :?:

Mods:
Roush CAI OR C&L CAI
BBK twin 62mm throttle body
C&L intake manifold
Long tube headers with no catalytic converters (straight pipe)
Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams OR Comp Cams Stage II XFI NSR Cams

All running at around 3000 feet above sea level?

Thanks a lot for your time, I just can't really find solid numbers on the 2010 GT with these mods all combined.

And one more thing. Possibly everything above with ported heads?
 

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Can't imagine it would be much over 350rwhp.

The throttle body won't add anything.
 

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It's no different than the 05-09 GTs just a different body style. And the TB won't do anything I have a stock TB still and you will be way under me.
 

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It's no different than the 05-09 GTs just a different body style. And the TB won't do anything I have a stock TB still and you will be way under me.
LOL, he'll be under you no matter what. You did see the mods he listed right? He is NA, you are not...uhhhh...duhhhh...
 

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Can't imagine it would be much over 350rwhp.

The throttle body won't add anything.
I concur. 350 is about the max I could see.

Don't get a throttle body... You'll get like 2 horsepower out of it...
 

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Actually I dont think he'd even get the 350, probably closer to 330. Sutton HP has a youtube video for 350rwhp n/a and they installed new heads as well as all the other things to get 350rwhp.

Save the money on the TB!

As for a "safe" tune. The tune is only as safe as you make it!

As for the 2010s, I always see them rated at 315HP to our 300 for the 05-09. Maybe it's just tuned differently.
 

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. . .
As for the 2010s, I always see them rated at 315HP to our 300 for the 05-09. Maybe it's just tuned differently.
The difference is the new intake and new ECU programming aka "tune" -- that's why you generally don't get as much improvement from a CAI/tune on a 2010 as with prior years, the factory basically already did it.

I have read the 2010 gets 325 on 93 octane, not sure that is correct; it has adaptive spark control but I think it just gives more torque with the higher octane, with the same maximum horsepower.
 

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The difference is the new intake and new ECU programming aka "tune" -- that's why you generally don't get as much improvement from a CAI/tune on a 2010 as with prior years, the factory basically already did it.

I have read the 2010 gets 325 on 93 octane, not sure that is correct; it has adaptive spark control but I think it just gives more torque with the higher octane, with the same maximum horsepower.

I had been trying to find that out myself. From what I've been able to gather, the premium gas gives a midrange torque boost of up to 10 ft/lbs, but peak hp remains unchanged.

I think the "premium" fuel map is for 91 octane, since 93 isn't available everywhere. I honestly haven't been able to tell a difference running 87 or 93, but I imagine 10 ft/lbs in the low to mid range is tough to feel.
 

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. . the premium gas gives a midrange torque boost of up to 10 ft/lbs, but peak hp remains unchanged.

I think the "premium" fuel map is for 91 octane, since 93 isn't available everywhere. I honestly haven't been able to tell a difference running 87 or 93, but I imagine 10 ft/lbs in the low to mid range is tough to feel.
I think that is correct per Ford (increases mid-range torque, no change in peak HP)

You're probably right about the "premium" fuel being 91 octane

After driving mine on 87 for a while I tried 93 and it just "feels better" down low . . . hard to describe, I guess it is more torque, I like it better on the 93 but I can't say exactly why
 

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YouTube - 350 rwhp N/A 2006 Mustang Gt

Sutton HP 350RWHP

1) FRPP CNC Heads
2) Comp Cams
3) UDPs
4) IMRC Deletes
5) JLT CAI
6) JBA LT Headers
7) JBA Mid Pipe
8) Sutton HP Tune
This package is $4399.00 installed.

All that to get 350rwhp. So I dont think throwing a CAI, cams, headers and an intake going to equal that. But I could be wrong. They didn't put on a new intake, just added the delete plates. I was thinking about getting the FRPP Intake Manifold but some AFM posters have pretty much convinced me that it would be more for show than for go.

***Notice no new throttle body or TB spacer on the list. Hmmm. Well maybe they just forgot, or they are just a waste of money.
 

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the best N/A mods are new heads, a very aggressive cam, LT's and gears. Of course a CAI and tune and some delete plates.

The heads and cams are expensive but net the best gains
 

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Under drive pullys are cheap as mods go and free up around 8rwhp. An aluminum drive shaft would really help by freeing up hp and dropping weight. Plus it's an easy in the driveway mod that won't require any retune. I would do the VSR or SPR Cams, FRPP intake manifold, LTs, UDPs, CAI, aluminum driveshaft, rear gears, ported heads, and a tune. That should very easily put you over the 350rwhp mark, well at a normal altitude.
 

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Going N/a to get big Hp is very expensive. If you going to put ported and polished heads you might as well do a forged shortblock as well. Do all the work once and save the money that doing it twice would be. I am going to just get a whole motor heads and all and just do a swap. There are some great engine builders out there now for our cars. Livernoise,JPC, JDM,STmotorsports, Coast Performance.
 

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YouTube - 350 rwhp N/A 2006 Mustang Gt

Sutton HP 350RWHP

1) FRPP CNC Heads
2) Comp Cams
3) UDPs
4) IMRC Deletes
5) JLT CAI
6) JBA LT Headers
7) JBA Mid Pipe
8) Sutton HP Tune
This package is $4399.00 installed.

All that to get 350rwhp. So I dont think throwing a CAI, cams, headers and an intake going to equal that. But I could be wrong. They didn't put on a new intake, just added the delete plates. I was thinking about getting the FRPP Intake Manifold but some AFM posters have pretty much convinced me that it would be more for show than for go.

***Notice no new throttle body or TB spacer on the list. Hmmm. Well maybe they just forgot, or they are just a waste of money.
Dear Oaklawn Chris,

For a little more $$$, you could have stayed with the stock motor and added a supercharger which would have yielded you closer to 400 RWHP or more...

I like the idea that you modified your motor but when I looked at the price you paid for everything including installation, I would have gone supercharged...

Just my 2 cents... Dave
 

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$ per hp forced induction can't be beat. However there are people that want to stay na.
 

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$ per hp forced induction can't be beat. However there are people that want to stay na.
Not sure why when you look at the amount of parts and $$$. What's the appeal?
 

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Not sure why when you look at the amount of parts and $$$. What's the appeal?
I agree not sure either. I did not buy a single bolt on when I purchased my car. Saved my $ and my first mod was the blower. No regrets and never looked back. :bigthumbsup
 

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Dear Oaklawn Chris,

For a little more $$$, you could have stayed with the stock motor and added a supercharger which would have yielded you closer to 400 RWHP or more...

I like the idea that you modified your motor but when I looked at the price you paid for everything including installation, I would have gone supercharged...

Just my 2 cents... Dave

Oh that's not my car! I wish I had that done but I can't afford it.
BTW if I was going to spend that much $, you'd better believe I'd put a blower on.

I posted that to give the OP a sense of how much it takes to get 350whp N/A. And how much easier f/i would be.
 

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Not sure why when you look at the amount of parts and $$$. What's the appeal?
Some people just dont want forced induction for whatever money. I have a friend who feels that f/i is cheating. He said it's like taking a baseball bat into a boxing ring. Money isn't always the issue.

Personally if I could afford it, I'd have the loudest blower on the market on top of my engine. As it is, I'm considering nitrous.
 

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Some people just dont want forced induction for whatever money. I have a friend who feels that f/i is cheating. He said it's like taking a baseball bat into a boxing ring. Money isn't always the issue.

Personally if I could afford it, I'd have the loudest blower on the market on top of my engine. As it is, I'm considering nitrous.
If you're not cheating you're not trying. A solid motor leads to a solid F/I motor.
 
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