[jbreon]

I have a '12 GT/CS with Shaker 1000 system.

Recently noticed my subs weren't hitting as hard as usual. Popped the trunk and found one sub was barely moving and the other was highly distorted. Almost like somebody blowing a raspberry on someone's stomach.

Took out the enclosure and pulled the subs to find that
the blown sub is fried around the paper cone area/voice coil? and the distorted sub looks perfectly fine. I have no idea how or why this happened. I've been listening at the same volume for a year now.

Does anyone now the RMS rating of the factory sub amp? I would love to drop two new 10s in the enclosure I already have and plug it into the existing amp. Just not that excited about wiring a new amp.

The after market amp I am looking is a Boss Audio from Amazon for $50.
Max Power @ 2 Ohms: 1100 Watts
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 250 Watts
With two Kicker 10C104 from Crutchfield.
power handling: 50-150 watts RMS
peak power handling: 300 watts

Can anyone give me any advice on the rating for the stock Shaker 1000 sub amp,
cons of using the factory enclosure/amp. Feedback on the replacements. Any ideas why I killed two speakers at the same time. Anything really. Any help is appreciated.

 

[JohnH13]

If you replace any factory subs with shaker you're going to have to replace the amps too. For whatever reason the factory subs have a weird independence (like 1.2 or something), also there are two factory amps each wired to one sub. Also the factory amps only have 5 volts going to them instead of 12, so you'd have install an aftermarket amp with all new wiring.

I'm not sure why both subs blew out of nowhere, possibly because they're the crappy factory subs? And for your amp I'm not sure how that one would work out. Not to talk bad about boss but I've read the some bad review about how you get what you pay for. Although I have a small one in an ice chest radio I made that hasn't given me any problems yet. (I only use about 5 times a year for a couple hours though)

 

[candersen]

If you replace any factory subs with shaker you're going to have to replace the amps too. For whatever reason the factory subs have a weird independence (like 1.2 or something), also there are two factory amps each wired to one sub. Also the factory amps only have 5 volts going to them instead of 12, so you'd have install an aftermarket amp with all new wiring.

I'm not sure why both subs blew out of nowhere, possibly because they're the crappy factory subs? And for your amp I'm not sure how that one would work out. Not to talk bad about boss but I've read the some bad review about how you get what you pay for. Although I have a small one in an ice chest radio I made that hasn't given me any problems yet. (I only use about 5 times a year for a couple hours though)

Actually, the amp receives battery voltage just like any aftermarket amp. Only the signal wire is reduced voltage. And according to the wiring schematic, there is only 1 amp for the rear subs, so it should be a 500W amp (Shaker 500 no rear subs, Shaker 1000 rear subs). Not that they aren't crap.........

Anyway, I've attached the first page of rear sub amp diag with the voltage circled, and the wiring diagram. PM me if you need more.