Blower gurus read please

BlueStreak

I am not a blower guru. Not on Fords. But the one thing that all blower motors have in common is, that you don't want to go to high with your gears. (rear wheels break loose at any time in 3rd gear)
Me personaly, I would first drive the stang with the stock 3.27 gears and make a decission from there. (saves money, time, hassle,...)

What kit did you get anyways? Intercooled - I guess the 9 psi kit?

For more information have a look at this link. Ken from kenne bell is posting about mods and his products: (awesome thread)
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=430012

Dammit man, that's the setup I need to have:worship

Oh, forgot to say:

Air intake is extremely important for all blower setups. Try to have the least possible restriction between intake and S/C.
If not, the only thing you get is heat.

Not a blower Guru either but, I agree with engineer76, stick with the stock gears for now and get KB's CAI, if you read their website they plainly state that if you use a different CAI then theirs they will not warranty certain situations.Either than that man I say have a hell of a time with it!! :winks

Yeah I'm getting the kit, mainly for the switch chip though. I want to be able to turn the power down a bit in foul weather. The CAI, MAF and throttle body are all bonuses as far as I'm concerned. I talked to the guys that will be doing the work today. I was told I can run 9psi intercooled with no problems as long as the tune is good. I was thinking more like 7 or 8 just to be safe though. Any input on that? I wasn't even thinking about gears right now. I just didn't want this thread to turn into another gear debate. I'll cross that bridge once I get some traction. I can't keep the rear wheels planted now, I want to learn how to drive the car before I go doing that.

My Vortec install will include Zetrix complete with the boost and exhaust temp options. Another item I found is this...Enan's NPG+ :eyepoppin

Stock water pump and their high flow thermostat with a 7lb radiator cap. :worship

Well, I'm saving for the KB as well and my plans were to start at 6-7lb and work my way up if I get the bug. Reasoning is; One, you will need to learn to drive your car all over again with an extra 90+ hp/tq out of the hole and Two, if you don't have a second fund set up for a new short block, it's best to be safe and not push that extra couple lb's of boost. That's the way I see it at least.

My first post was in response to what I thought you were asking. If I were in your position I would just strap on the blower, do a little suspension upgrading so you are not all over the road and get big brakes and just be done.

Maff!!!!!!90mm

You do not need an 80mm TB....75mm is fine.......You also do not need an Air to fuel gague...I won't work on your year model........It won't read acuratly. Your wasting $$$
What you really need is a better chip upgrade and a dyno tune........this will Get your timing right and the Af/r right.
If your Cooler is water to air then put a bit of antifreeze and some "wetter water" in there and it will stay cooler.
This is the bigest thing you will need..........a 80-90mm maf! If you don't get this you will be losing Horse power and Your Twin Screw will not pleasure you as much!!!!

TK421DS said:

You do not need an 80mm TB....75mm is fine.......You also do not need an Air to fuel gague...I won't work on your year model........It won't read acuratly. Your wasting $$$
What you really need is a better chip upgrade and a dyno tune........this will Get your timing right and the Af/r right.
If your Cooler is water to air then put a bit of antifreeze and some "wetter water" in there and it will stay cooler.
This is the bigest thing you will need..........a 80-90mm maf! If you don't get this you will be losing Horse power and Your Twin Screw will not pleasure you as much!!!!

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That didn't make a whole lot of sense??
:sosad:

You're most likely right. I don't NEED an 80mm TB right now, but since I'm getting the accessory kit anyway, I might as well do it now. I plan on building the bottom end at some point and boosting 10+psi. I have heard in several places that the A/F ratio meters aren't accurate. I posed this question to the shop that will be doing the install and their tuner told me the AEM one is almost as accurate as the one on their dyno, it's not cheap at all, but worth it to me. It will let me monitor what's going on so I'm not running around running lean unknowingly. The 90mm MAF is a definite. I don't want to starve the blower for air and end up making more heat than necessary, especially on a stock bottom end.

I have heard in several places that the A/F ratio meters aren't accurate

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LOL! I bet he SELLS the AEM...

Any shop that tells me wide band O2 guages are not accurate in general gets not a penny from me! Do yourself a favor and do your own research and DO NOT rely on one shop....

Better yet, do the install yourself. All the accessories are easy and directions are very good regardless. Then go get it dynoed.

Any shop is there to sell you something...remember that above all and NEVER take one mechanic"s opinion.

Are you trying to say that the wideband O2's that tuners use aren't accurate? A lot of people I know use innovative motorsports wide bands. As far as I know, they are accurate.

I was saying that A/F meters in general aren't accurate because they use a standard O2 sensor. At least that's what I've heard in several places. And I didn't get the meter from the shop, I found it at Summit.

Ok, you are correct. The add on A/F gauges that tap the stock O2 sensor are junk.

The Wide Band O2 setups, regardless of make, are a neccessary accessory for any poweradder IMHO.

The Zetrix setup will give me Lamda/AF ratio, boost, and exhaust temp for 600 bucks. Cheap insurance in my estimation.

It's one thing to set up the supercharger and get the proper tune. It's another to have a fuel system or ignition malfunction while driving and not know about it until too late.

My guess is that at least half of those adding a super/turbo end up with a blown head gasket. :happyhapp The tune may have been spot on initally, but without a way to monitor the performance of the complete system a malfunction could end in disaster. :laughlitt

BlueStreak03 said:

I was saying that A/F meters in general aren't accurate because they use a standard O2 sensor. At least that's what I've heard in several places. And I didn't get the meter from the shop, I found it at Summit.

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The narrow band O2's aren't accurate. The widebands are. The stuff you get from autometer, stewart warner performance, stuff like that isn't accurate because it doesn't give you Lamda or the A/F ratio. It's just a light show of rich/lean which doesn't mean crap in my eyes. Innovative motorsports and AEM wide bands are accurate.

OK I'm good to go then because I coughed up the cash for the AEM UEGO setup.

AEM A/F meter came today. I feel like a kid again. Now I'm considering ordering the kit tomorrow.