[Guest]

Ok, so I'm trying to get this blower pulley off and it's fighting me a little bit. I have googled a little bit and I saw where someone stuffed a clean rag between the rotors to stop them spinning but the way the magnacharger's front inlet attaches to the jackshaft, that's not an option. So I tried wadding up a rag on the rear pullies and it just eats the rags and wasn't working. The torque spec is 45 ft/lbs. Makes me wonder if it's over that. Anybody got any pointers other than rags in the rotors? Maybe I could take the CAI off and snake a 3/8" rubber fuel line in there to stop the rotors. Does that sound like bad mojo? Ideas?

 

[hammerdown]

I wouldn't go stuffing any foreign objects into the rotor set personally.. I'd first try jamming the jackshaft at the rear of that thing if anything (like with a wedge of rubber cut from an old tire or a used belt or something similar) Or... put your serpentine back on and tension it, then use the belt wrap around the supercharger front pulley to hold it in place while you loosen the jamb nut. Hit it with an impact wrench to help "shock it" and break it loose then from the looks of it you could easily slip a 2 or 3 jaw pulley puller over it to do the rest once the nut is off. (I'm just going off of google image search for reference)

 

[Guest]

I never took the serpentine belt off. I figure I would need it on there. I have tried the rubber line already with no luck. Oddly enough I can get the rotors to seize but the drive system continues to turn...go figure. And nice tried avert thing you mentioned.


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[Guest]

Do you use 2 people? 1 for tension 1 to unscrew it or what? I'm gonna go measure the torque I'm getting on it. It's not supposed to be higher than 45 ft/lbs.


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[hammerdown]

you got me on this one then boss. as far as the drive system turning after the rotors seize, could it be the rear of the jackshaft slipping against the belt?

Wish I knew more about the Maggie.. I'm just shooting from the hip over here.

Edit:
Amendment to that.. Just though it through some more, I'm guessing (assuming) you're trying to turn the bolt counterclockwise and thereby rotating the shaft, pulley, and everything else with it? Could it be there is a one-way clutch pulley in there somewhere? That would explain why you can turn the drive mechanism (backwards at least) even if the rotors have been deliberately seized by a foreign object.

I can see the logic for having a one-way clutch pulley in the system to eliminate sudden belt strain from the heavy rotors spinning down when you lift off the throttle. The same basic reason our alternators come with one. I don't know if the Maggie does or doesn't have this sort of mechanism.. just a thought.

-HD

 

[Muckerpuck]

I think they make a special pulley puller for that style of blower. I think it is similar to a 3 jaw puller that will allow the pulley to be held in place the bolt removed and then the pulley can be pulled with the puller. I have also seen that you can get the bolt undone with just hand hold on the belt below the pulley then use a 3 jaw puller to remove. Or others us a strap wrench around the pulley.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the pointers.


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[Muckerpuck]

Another thing came to mind also, that some pulleys need special tools to install them also, or need to be pressed on sometimes. The install tool normally is bolted to the shaft with pulley on the shaft to be pushed on, then connected to a pusher piece with bolts on it to press the pulley on. Others can just be pushed on the shaft by hand and pulled the rest of the way on with the existing bolt. Just something some may or may not know. :bigthumbsup

 

[Guest]

Got it off.
Ok, so for anybody esle needing help with this in the future...
Go to Autozone, they loan out pulley pullers. Get a 2-3 ton pulley puller and get the longer one if they have 2 options (they do). Grab a cheap 7amp electric impact wrench and go home. The cheapo impact wrench actually comes with several impact grade sockets, one of which is a 13/16" that you will use to take the nut of the pulley off. I had to take my coolant tank off the radiator to have room for the impact wrench.Coolant tank mount uses a Torx socket, don't remember the size.

So take the coolant tank off, leave hoses connected and move it out of the way to the right. Leave the belt on so the impact wrench can do it's job better. The impact wrench is where it's at! Take off the blower pulley nut. Pay attention to the distance on the backside of the pulley in relation to the remaining shaft. You want a good idea of what it was like before you pull it off so when it goes back on there won't be belt alignment issues because you didn't seat the pulley far enough back. Put the pulley puller around the backside of the pulley, so as not to damage the grooves. Put the center piece of the puller on the pulley shaft and take it partially off. Becareful with the supercharger pulley key. Before you take the pulley completely off, make sure the key is in the 12 O'clock position and try not to drop it when you pull the pulley the rest of the way off. When you go to put your pulley back on, I suggest you heat the inside of the pulley with a small torch so you can expand it some so it will go back on the blower shaft without too much drama. I didn't heat mine up. I used the impact wrench to drive the nut on and push it back into place. That was probably a bad move because I might have overtorqued the pulley which is supposed to be 45 ft/lbs. Now I can send my pulley off to carbonite racing and get it coated so I don't have beltslip with the 3incher. Right now I got the stock pulley back on and I gotta say it's nice. Really nice not having belt slip issues. The power is still there too. My car is pulling plenty hard and it's not losing it's a$$ at the upper RPM's where I was experiencing belt slip. So we will see how bad I screwed up when I try to get the pulley back off with the mystery torque that's on it now. I didn't even check the torque, which is not like me at all, but I'm pretty comfortable it's going nowhere. It's all really simple when you have the right tools. Everything I tried previously did nothing. I think a belt strap wrench would have worked, but I wound up getting the impact wrench and the belt strap wrench at the same time and the other was not necessary.

 

[hammerdown]

Glad you got that worked out! :bigthumbsup

-HD

 

[Guest]

Glad you got that worked out! :bigthumbsup

-HD

What are you doing wasting time talking on the forum?!? Go put your intercooler on before you have to replace more drywall and flooring!

 

[hammerdown]

Jeebus! Don't even get me started on that. Had the leak detection guys out yesterday and the good news is they don't think it is a plumbing leak.. the bad news is WHERE THE HELL is the water coming from then!??

It looked like the water advanced more when we put a garden hose down the washing machine drain and just let it run, but we couldn't see any leaks visually around where the drain pipe comes through the wall and there was no moisture running off the sil plate. It's in there somewhere/somehow, but just can't see what I need to see.

It's been a mess. Looks like now I'm going to have no choice but to rip up the flooring just to get a better look. Maybe I'll find and answer, maybe I won't. I've got a restoration company coming at 4 today to give me an estimate on cleaning up the moisture and any mold that may be present.

FML.

 

[Guest]

Ok I figure I will update this since I have "actually" fixed the problem.....yeah.

So in post #9 when I said "it's really nice not having belt slip issues"....I should have waited a few days before that post. It wound up creeping back, chirp, chirp, chirp. So I put the carbinite pulley on and it sounded awful. It sound 20 times worse. I wound up playing with the blower pulley some. I backed the pulley off the shaft maybe 1-2mm to see if the blower pulley was scraping on the back of the housing. I squirted some WD40 on the back side of the serpentine belt to see if that did anything. It did. The noise started backing off. So I squirted a tad more and a tad more and it would start subsiding and coming back pretty quick. I squirted some on the ribbed side of the belt and it went away and then started coming back. So I decided to replace the belt. I went down to NAPA and got the belt for my blower (Gates makes that belt btw). Put the belt on and the noise was still there. So, since I had a bunch of spare idler pullies laying around I started swapping a few of the idlers. No change in noise. So I figured I would take off the ilder on the tensioner. I pulled the tensioner off the car and I could move the pulley while it was still on the tensioner. Uh ohhh...and good. Found it. So to make sure that it was abnormal, I pulled that BBR pulley off and put another pulley on and it didn't move any. So I put the tensioner back on the car and the sound was gone. What a relief. Car is running strong and to top it off, the car pulls belt slip free all the way upto 6200rpms, which I haven't done since I first got the blower. Just so you guys know, I hand spun all the pullies on my car and NONE of them were showing any kind of play when spinning them. I imagine if I would have shook that pulley it would have shown, but I didn't do that. I just span it. So note to self, work the pullies in multiple directions. The stethoscope did indicate that noise was coming from that idler also. Anyway, now that I'm really done with that....a side note: It's not adviseable to use an impact wrench to put the blower pulley back on. You can chuck bearings and all kind of good stuff. Luckily, I didn't. Use a micro torch to put the pulley on. I'm sure the majority of folks out there have the common sense to not put a pulley on with an impact wrench.