Both terminals of coil hot without key in ignition

Hey guys, I have a bit of an electrical problem going on. I have a 68 mustang, and it's been in the garage for the winter. I went to start it the other day and it will crank over but it wouldn't start. So I did the basics, and wasn't getting any spark to the plugs. So I have a ton of new parts that I keep as extras, and I replaced everything. The dizzy cap, starter solenoid, ignition switch, coil, I took my pertronix out and put points back in (cheaper if anything burns up) Only thing I didn't change yet was my distributor. But noticed the points were firing without the key even being in the ignition. Also, both the + and - are hot on the coil all the time (both coils I have), without the key. So I poked my test light into the socket by the fire wall, and the wire in the plug that comes from inside the car that runs to the coil is hot, again without the key being on.

Next I put my test light on the back of the ignition switch, and the battery side of the ignition switch is hot (which it should be correct?) and the "ignition" side of the switch is also hot (without the key even being in the ignition). To refresh your memory, the ignition side is where the pink resistor wire and a green/red stripe wire run and come out as the single wire that goes to the switch. So I unhooked the ignition side of my switch, and found out the pink resistor wire is hot at all times and the other wire isn't, without the key on as well. So my understanding I have a short somewhere right? Are there any wires that would feed power into the ignition switch I need to check? Because the resistor wire is getting power when it's not even hooked up to the ignition switch. When I unhook the ignition wire from my solenoid, it kills the power to the pink resistor wire.

Also, is the ignition side of my starter solenoid supposed to be hot all the time, because mine is, even on the other one I have as a back up. I've got it narrowed down this far, and just wanting to see if I have an issue between the battery and pink resistor wire. And is there is a SAFE way to bypass this or what I should check next? Could the pink resistor wire just be shot? Or would it be something shorted coming into the car from the battery since it's giving it power? Any help is appreciated as always guy. Thank you, and drive safe this year!