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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Previous car was a boosted geo metro so this is a huge change for me and I'm a bit clueless with this machine.

What is the mystery dial between the shifter and the cup holder? Is this an old volume knob? Came with an aftermarket head unit... doesnt seem to control anything now?

Digital odometer and analog speedometer are not working... speedo reads zero and odo reads 128×××k and then reads -------. You cam drive all day and never ad a mile. Think it needs a vehicle speed sensor? Any advice there? The clutch is defintely not stock so somebody has been monkeying around down there. Is this a common issue at all? I guess it might have more miles on it than I realized. It maybe have been stuck at 128k for years! It runs good though so in pretty happy.

Front tires rub on the sway bar at full lock. I think its lowered a little causing the problem. Not sure how much or what a stock new edge wheel gap is. The tire size matches the door sticker and there are some kind of fresh looking springs on it. No idea what kind besides they're black. They still had tags on them actually but the print is faded off.

Hood scoop is half way pealing off... scared I might lose it on the interstate. What kind of glue to use? Right now ive been rocking the 50mph duct tape past 75mph and it's fine lol.

Car was registered up in the mountains so somebody put cat delete flowmaster pipes on there. But I live in the city where I have to pass emissions. Looks like the O2 sensors are installed on the catless pipes which seems pointless? Only issue is there isnt a ton of space between where the cat would go and the floor pan. Idk how close you want that to be in case it melts the carpet inside?

Also the exhaust tips bang off the ground when I hit a dip/pull into driveway... would shortening how far they stick out help? They might stick out like 2 inches, probably 3 inch diameter. Not too worried I just always cringe when I hit one of these side street drainage dips we have all over the place.

Edit: More issues that popped up.

Both power windows stopped working at the same time today mid-drive. The passenger side also doesnt respond to the passenger side switch either. I replaced the 20A CB (slot 43) but no dice. Oddly enough the locks which are on the same switch still work tho. The battery holder is kind of loose and I tightened up the positive temrinal clamp, so idk if that blew something while hitting a bump?I'll be replacing the terminal clamps tomorrow and reinforcing the battery tray.

So not sure if the power mirrors already were broken, or if they broke at the same time as the windows. I only had it for a day so hadn't played with the mirrors yet, but neither side mirror adjusts.

I just noticed the front door Mach tweeters dont work but the door panel speakers do work. I read that theres a sub and amp...does that power the tweeters? Bc i think the sub and amp were missing when I bought the car. Unless the amp is hidden? Can I wire the tweeters to run off the head unit pre-amp? I'd think that would push them just fine.

I'm noticing that the early - mid 2000s was a horrible time for paint. Its already flaking off in chunks in places. I think I'll paint it 2019 Ford Abyss Grey once I get a few things sorted. It would look so sick! I might do a Cobra front bumper and something sick on the rear to match the Saleen wing the previous owner installed. Maybe something with diffusers?

Car has a few/many? small issues but for $4k I think I did pretty good! It rides smooth as silk, and the motor and trans seem to work perfectly. That leaves me $4k in upgrades since $8k was my budget.

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For the hood scoop I would take off the hood liner and see if maybe the bolts holding it down have loosened for some reason. Double side 3M tape if you're just looking to hold it down better. Without seeing the mystery dial best guess is it was for a sub control to turn down the bass in an aftermarket system. Stock ride height you should almost be able to stick your fist between the top of your tire and the fender. Window problem could be several things but if it was mine I'd first check I was getting power to the switches with a test light. As for the exhaust problems can't help much other than to say the o2 sensors being plugged in was probably to keep the check engine light from coming on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
These are good tips! I probed the driver door switch it seems to have power. I'll try replacing it. Not even Ford can get that part though so I'm stuck with used and waiting for shipping. I bought the mustang mainly because I though parts would be all over the place!

I noticed the positive battery terminal was loose and ****** so upgraded to a quick release power distribution terminal clamp. Looks cool on there! The battery tray was loose and I think the combo of hitting a bump while running the window may have fried the switch. I secured it so it's nice and tight now. Now I know why the previous owner wouldnt let me drove over any speed bumps test driving haha. Thought he was just being a pain in the ass.

Looks like the mirror wires have a couple breaks in the insulation so likely popped a fuse. Honestly that doesnt bother me though. Just glad it's likely an isolated issue.

It has the Mach speakers in it... is there a stock amp hidden somewhere? Do the models with Mach speakers have that knob? Tweeters dont work but rear and door speakers work. Previous owner definitely had an aftermarket sub wired in but now removed. .. sounds ok as is but not the most spectacular sound... perhaps they never hooked to the aftermarket head unit... idk that's a mystery for another day.

So the hood is actually fiberglass which is why it's not full of hail dents like the roof. Stock goods are steel right? Somebody actually cut out the hood under the scoop so now it's real. I just duct taped it for now lol

I did identify some cool stuff tho the more I look at it.... upgraded coil packs, lightweight pulleys, long tube headers! Upgraded manifold and throttle body. Brand new off road x pipe, brand new flowmasters, brand new coil springs with the tags (lost it before I could look up the barcode darn), and the wing is actually from the Saleen which looks SICK. Shortened antennae mod too. I thought the wheels were stock black but its ****** spray paint. Looks fine when they're dirty tho lol. LED headlights, new headlight lenses in the trunk, found the grill too. It's got awesome like new nitto tires which are in fact the correct size.

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That's weird they cut out the hood, unless it has some sort of aftermarket intake that actually pulls air into the engine from that hole which I highly doubt then all they have done is made a giant hole in the hood for water to get on top of the engine and possibly fry the coils. That is also why your scoop is trying to leave the hood, the purpose of the fake plastic insert is to keep wind from getting under the scoop and ripping it off. Have you tried rockauto.com for your switch? They have tons of stuff for our cars and are much cheaper than box stores. Can't help on the Mach system my car never had it but I think it did come with a factory amp not sure where it was located.
 

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The wheels are probably off a newer Mustang or are aftermarket with a different offset which is why you likely have the stabilizer clearance issue.
I'm not all that surprised that Ford already made the window switch obsolete. Even parts that have decent demand regularly get cut from their available part lists. It may be reproduced and available on LMR or CJ Pony Parts or even Rockauto like already mentioned.
The Mach system came in 2 versions: one with a sub and one without. Either version had upgraded factory amps and speakers though. Not the best sounding or quality system but much better than Ford's typical subpar stereos. It was wired in an unusual manner which makes integrating standard aftermarket amps and speakers into it difficult. The factory speaker and amp wiring has to be abandoned in most cases.
The knob was not factory as far as I know and as already mentioned probably came with an aftermarket amp which has since been removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think they're the factory wheels for this car but somebody just painted them black which looks great if you dont look to closely at the crappy spray job lol. With the lowered springs, do you have to install those camber plate thingers? The front wheels do seem to be cambered in just a bit just looking at it. I'm thinking it might need an alignment but maybe no point until I correct for the springs? Not sure how much adjustment it's got left without modding. It's got some really nice tires on it so I dont want them to wear weird.

I ended up ordering a used switch off Ebay. No dice on that switch off Rock Auto either... but now I have a business idea. Need to get these manufactured! That's got to be a sought after part. I can get passenger side and switches for the convertible model all day long. Just not the one most people will need. Maybe it's because of the whole chinese manufacturing/electronics crisis we're having or something.

I was a big stereo guy when I was like 16... I bet I can take those Mach tweeters apart and splice them to the door speaker wire. If they never work again though, not too worried honestly. The older I get the less I like loud music anyway. I'm the type of person who usually drives home from work in silence lol. And I dont put amps in my vehicles anymore after the last amp I had almost burned my brand new truck to the ground.

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The Mach system speakers are different ohms from what is normally in the aftermarket. Ford's weird system uses 8 ohm speakers and any aftermarket will be normal 4 ohms. You'll have to change the amplifiers if you want to upgrade to aftermarket speakers(if not already changed) since the Mach is 8 ohms and new speakers will be 4 ohms. If you change the speakers to aftermarket then you have to run them direct off your aftermarket head unit or run a new amp which means running speaker wires or amp wiring. If one of the stock Ford amps stops working then the same thing applies in that you'll have to buy new speakers and run new wiring I believe.
As I recall the 2 factory Ford amps each drive the different frequency ranges to each speaker, one low and one high. That's another thing that was weird about the factory system. Each speaker gets input from 2 amps and it's a very odd way to set up a sound system.
The AFM member eelstrebor is familiar with the Mach system in the SN95. Here's a recent thread that he started that discussed it: (198) identify Mach 460 head connectors | Ford Mustang Forum (allfordmustangs.com)

If the drop is over 1" or so it might need camber plates to get it aligned. It's hard to tell from your pic since it's on an angle but if he dropped your car about 2" and it's got the stock strut mounts then that might be why you have a rubbing issue. The car doesn't look dropped at all to me but a side pic or measurement of the tire to wheelwell would help get someone to tell you if it's lowered or not.
The large 3" exhaust tips that you have will further make big bumps an issue like you said happens. Maybe the exhaust is too low. You said there were long tube headers on the car so hitting any bumps and bottoming them out would be a bad thing and lowering a car with them installed is risky. Are you sure that's not the scraping sound that you hear?
 

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I don`t think the factory paint was that bad from cars of that era. The few I had were fine. Your car looks like the front end is a different color than the rest of the car, so maybe it has been repainted at some point.
 

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Previous car was a boosted geo metro so this is a huge change for me and I'm a bit clueless with this machine.
You should have turned and ran as fast as you can.....this wat you get when buying some prior hack job. Somebody who doesn't do things correctly and safely when monkey ING around on their mustangs......wat can we say....either fix the issues one by one or do yourself a favor n sell the misfit. Just my thoughts
 

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Previous car was a boosted geo metro so this is a huge change for me and I'm a bit clueless with this machine.

What is the mystery dial between the shifter and the cup holder? Is this an old volume knob? Came with an aftermarket head unit... doesnt seem to control anything now?

Digital odometer and analog speedometer are not working... speedo reads zero and odo reads 128×××k and then reads -------. You cam drive all day and never ad a mile. Think it needs a vehicle speed sensor? Any advice there? The clutch is defintely not stock so somebody has been monkeying around down there. Is this a common issue at all? I guess it might have more miles on it than I realized. It maybe have been stuck at 128k for years! It runs good though so in pretty happy.

Front tires rub on the sway bar at full lock. I think its lowered a little causing the problem. Not sure how much or what a stock new edge wheel gap is. The tire size matches the door sticker and there are some kind of fresh looking springs on it. No idea what kind besides they're black. They still had tags on them actually but the print is faded off.

Hood scoop is half way pealing off... scared I might lose it on the interstate. What kind of glue to use? Right now ive been rocking the 50mph duct tape past 75mph and it's fine lol.

Car was registered up in the mountains so somebody put cat delete flowmaster pipes on there. But I live in the city where I have to pass emissions. Looks like the O2 sensors are installed on the catless pipes which seems pointless? Only issue is there isnt a ton of space between where the cat would go and the floor pan. Idk how close you want that to be in case it melts the carpet inside?

Also the exhaust tips bang off the ground when I hit a dip/pull into driveway... would shortening how far they stick out help? They might stick out like 2 inches, probably 3 inch diameter. Not too worried I just always cringe when I hit one of these side street drainage dips we have all over the place.

Edit: More issues that popped up.

Both power windows stopped working at the same time today mid-drive. The passenger side also doesnt respond to the passenger side switch either. I replaced the 20A CB (slot 43) but no dice. Oddly enough the locks which are on the same switch still work tho. The battery holder is kind of loose and I tightened up the positive temrinal clamp, so idk if that blew something while hitting a bump?I'll be replacing the terminal clamps tomorrow and reinforcing the battery tray.

So not sure if the power mirrors already were broken, or if they broke at the same time as the windows. I only had it for a day so hadn't played with the mirrors yet, but neither side mirror adjusts.

I just noticed the front door Mach tweeters dont work but the door panel speakers do work. I read that theres a sub and amp...does that power the tweeters? Bc i think the sub and amp were missing when I bought the car. Unless the amp is hidden? Can I wire the tweeters to run off the head unit pre-amp? I'd think that would push them just fine.

I'm noticing that the early - mid 2000s was a horrible time for paint. Its already flaking off in chunks in places. I think I'll paint it 2019 Ford Abyss Grey once I get a few things sorted. It would look so sick! I might do a Cobra front bumper and something sick on the rear to match the Saleen wing the previous owner installed. Maybe something with diffusers?

Car has a few/many? small issues but for $4k I think I did pretty good! It rides smooth as silk, and the motor and trans seem to work perfectly. That leaves me $4k in upgrades since $8k was my budget.

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Looking at your driver side door, I don't like the gap (the absence of a gap). You should have the chassis checked first thing.
 

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Looking at your driver side door, I don't like the gap (the absence of a gap). You should have the chassis checked first thing.
The pic is at a 1/4 angle so you really can't see most of the panel gaps properly. The only thing that I notice is the door looks like a darker shade of silver than the rest of the car. A side view would be very helpful though.
 

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Hmmm now I need to check for clues about a collsion... this car was really cheap so it is what it is. It seems to track down the road pretty well. I think it's the same (Moderated) paint job the whole way around... it seems to be chipping the same way on both doors under the windows. Its hard to tell under that lighting. I did notice the panel gaps on the hood are a bit off but it's an aftermarket hood so that's to be expected. I'll have to compare the gaps side to side and with photos of other new edges. I didnt even bother with a car fax... sometimes when you get a good deal you dont even want to know the history lol. Once I get all the mechanical stuff sorted which shouldn't be too difficult, im thinking about a new paint job since I only spent about half my planned budget...that Abyss Gray on the 2019 F150s would be pretty sexy.
 
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