[Sway]

Hello 5.0L Tech! So I replaced my shocks, struts and springs with the Bilstein b6 and B12 Pro-Kit from Americanmuscle.com and the ride isnt nearly as soft as i thought it was going to be, granted ive only driven on it for about 30 minutes so im thinking it wont be as bad when things settle into place. It may be of use to note that this was my first bit of suspension work so i may have made a very novice mistake although i believe I was very thorough. I also feel like it bounces far too much, and the rear is lower than the front. I believe one of the issues may be that i didnt lower the car on its wheels to torque the Strut to Spindle bolts on the front. I tried to get away with jacking the control arm up as far as i could and torquing the bolts down. I also believe the front springs are seated properly but the driver side spring insulator is seated slightly ahead of the end of the pigtail, but i believe the pigtail is seated properly in the LCA. Lastly i didn't "purge" the shocks and struts of any Air; i read a few things afterwards mentioning compressing the shocks and struts fully to release any air pockets. Any advice on why my ride may be bumpy or why I have a larger fender to wheel gap in the front than the rear is greatly appreciated! Also if it is the fact that i didnt purge any air pockets in the shocks and struts, will that work its way out or will i have to remove them to purge?

Thanks!
-Joe


Update: They settled in well, as i mentioned it was my first time putting new suspension on any vehicle ive owned so i wasnt sure what to expect. Also, greatly appreciate the info and effort you guys put into helping me with what i thought was an issue!

 

[wbrockstar]

Thats what Ive always hated about specific & progressive rated lowering springs.The front always seems to sit higher than the rear of the car & Ive ran Eibachs,Ford Motorsport,Steeda & Jamex.This is the reason I finally gave up and switched to coil overs.Each corner can be adjusted by turning a collar with a spanner wrench.
I would however give your car a few days worth of driving to let the springs settle.I doubt youve got any air pockets in the struts & shocks,but if it bothers you,just take the top strut nuts off and cycle the strut rods downward, then release,downward,then release.I wouldn't bother though.
As far as the pigtail goes,the insulator extending out past the pigtail wont affect ride height.The main thing is to have the pigtail covering one of the drain holes in the front control arm,but leaving the second drain hole so its visable.
On the rear springs,just make sure the pigtail is on the rear side of the lower control arm spring seat and facing the left side of the car,on both rear springs.
You probably wont need em because of only dropping the car 1-1.2", but caster camber plates make a great addition,if your stock camber plate cant take enough of the neg camber out of the alignment to prevent excessive inside tire wear.The stock plate only takes so much out.

 

[my89foxbody]

Hello 5.0L Tech! So I replaced my shocks, struts and springs with the Bilstein b6 and B12 Pro-Kit from Americanmuscle.com and the ride isnt nearly as soft as i thought it was going to be, granted ive only driven on it for about 30 minutes so im thinking it wont be as bad when things settle into place. It may be of use to note that this was my first bit of suspension work so i may have made a very novice mistake although i believe I was very thorough. I also feel like it bounces far too much, and the rear is lower than the front. I believe one of the issues may be that i didnt lower the car on its wheels to torque the Strut to Spindle bolts on the front. I tried to get away with jacking the control arm up as far as i could and torquing the bolts down. I also believe the front springs are seated properly but the driver side spring insulator is seated slightly ahead of the end of the pigtail, but i believe the pigtail is seated properly in the LCA. Lastly i didn't "purge" the shocks and struts of any Air; i read a few things afterwards mentioning compressing the shocks and struts fully to release any air pockets. Any advice on why my ride may be bumpy or why I have a larger fender to wheel gap in the front than the rear is greatly appreciated! Also if it is the fact that i didnt purge any air pockets in the shocks and struts, will that work its way out or will i have to remove them to purge?

Thanks!
-Joe

Good information here on your purchase

Understanding BILSTEIN's Product Line

 

[145566]

Y'all don't think the bulk of the ride quality has anything to do with the spring rate of the Eibach springs?

 

[145566]

Good information here on your purchase

Understanding BILSTEIN's Product Line

I think he has this Bilstein Mustang Shock, Strut & B12 Pro-Kit Lowering Spring Kit - Hatchback 46-228895 (87-93 V8) - Free Shipping

Not this BILSTEIN B12 (Pro-Kit)

 

[my89foxbody]

I think he has this Bilstein Mustang Shock, Strut & B12 Pro-Kit Lowering Spring Kit - Hatchback 46-228895 (87-93 V8) - Free Shipping

Not this BILSTEIN B12 (Pro-Kit)

I was just throwing out good product information on the Bilsteins

 

[Strange Mud]

air pockets in shocks? Wouldn't that be a leak.

 

[my89foxbody]

air pockets in shocks? Wouldn't that be a leak.

You would be absolutely 200% correct

 

[145566]

I was just throwing out good product information on the Bilsteins

I don't think the bilstenis' are the issue though. I think its the springs that american muscle sells in their package deal he bought.

 

[my89foxbody]

I don't think the bilstenis' are the issue though. I think its the springs that american muscle sells in their package deal he bought.

I'm a MOOG type of guy when it comes to springs and I prefer stock ride height

 

[Strange Mud]

Joe,

bouncy or not soft? also post up pics of the stance. Mine did settle out height level after a short drive...more so after one month.

 

[wbrockstar]

I found the information in the following link to be a very good read on the Foxbody suspension & many other nearby components.It lists some technical measurements too.

Excerpt - Official Ford Mustang 5.0 Technical Reference and Performance Handbook : 1979-1993 *-* Bentley Publishers - Repair Manuals and Automotive Books

 

[stpete]

I had the Pro Kit springs with the low end KYB shocks. The car rode great. Bilsteins are going to be stiffer since they can handle much higher spring rates. The pro Kit springs are essentially the same spring rates as stock, just lower.

Did you replace all the suspension bushings? If those are worn, no suspension feels right.

 

[squekster]

I found the information in the following link to be a very good read on the Foxbody suspension & many other nearby components.It lists some technical measurements too.

Excerpt - Official Ford Mustang 5.0 Technical Reference and Performance Handbook : 1979-1993 *-* Bentley Publishers - Repair Manuals and Automotive Books

I thumbed through that piece you posted, good read by the way.
It states that in late 84 the GT\Handling package came with variable
rate coil springs. So unless you want to lower the car the stock springs
are already variable rate springs no need to change them for a car driven
on the street.

 

[wbrockstar]

Stpete & Squekster's comment about the Eibach Pro springs draws the same conclusion that Eibachs spring rate is very close to the rate of the 87-93 stock springs.
The Motorsport "B" springs are identical to the rate of the stock springs.


(Stock 87-93)
F=425/530 R=200/300

(Eibach Pro Kit)
F=460/530 R=200/300

(Motorsport B)
F=425/530 R=200/300

 

[145566]

Stpete & Squekster's comment about the Eibach Pro springs draws the same conclusion that Eibachs spring rate is very close to the rate of the 87-93 stock springs.
The Motorsport "B" springs are identical to the rate of the stock springs.


(Stock 87-93)
F=425/530 R=200/300

(Eibach Pro Kit)
F=460/530 R=200/300

(Motorsport B)
F=425/530 R=200/300

I didn't realize the sn95's had softer stock springs than the fox.
94-98 GT: Front Springs 400-505 Variable rate. Rear Springs 165-265 Variable rate. But I did notice the stiffer ride when I went to the "B" springs.

 

[Sway]

Not entirely sure, it was recommended in my Chilton manual but I hadnt seen it until after I put them in.

 

[Sway]

It feels like there is a bounce. It is a softer ride than before.

 

[Sway]

Only bushings from what i was replacing, Shock/Strut and springs.

 

[stpete]

If it hasn't been done, all the bushings in the car are likely shot. Replacing them makes a big difference in how tight the car feels. At a minimum the front control arm bushings. Then check the rag joint in the steering, usually they are pretty bad also. To get it steering nicely and feeling right, steering rack bushings and all the rear control arm bushings. I will say that mine didn't "bounce" before I replaced the bushings, but it didn't feel right.
For front control arm bushings, get the ones with no shell and just use a drill bit to cut out the rubber. Drill through the rubber and just kind of push the drill bit around the whole thing. Much easier than trying to get the whole thing replaced.