Since you have some after market brake upgrades, the first thing to check is the movement of the rod inside the switch. If the rod is rubbing on the inside faces of the switch one or both parts are not the correct thing.
Brake lights won't turn off, everything is new!
I have a 65 V8 convertible with aftermarket power brakes. It is a recent restoration. After I installed the engine wiring harness I tested all of my electrical components. I noticed my brake lights won't turn off and my headlights won't turn on. I'm pretty sure the headlights aren't turning on because the bulbs are out and I just haven't gotten new ones yet.
In attempt to fix this, first I replaced my brake light switch and triple checked it's installation. I have the plastic washer and bushing in the proper place and the pedal is all the way forward. When that didn't work I replaced the high beam switch. When that didn't work I replaced the headlight switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
In attempt to fix this, first I replaced my brake light switch and triple checked it's installation. I have the plastic washer and bushing in the proper place and the pedal is all the way forward. When that didn't work I replaced the high beam switch. When that didn't work I replaced the headlight switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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The rod is identical to the stock rod and is not rubbing on the inside surfaces.Since you have some after market brake upgrades, the first thing to check is the movement of the rod inside the switch. If the rod is rubbing on the inside faces of the switch one or both parts are not the correct thing.
NGD5005, Do your brake lights go out when you remove the harness clip from the brake switch? Can you jump the brake light harness with a starter button and have the brake lights go on manually? Yes to these questions would indicate a faulty switch (yep, even new ones will screw up sometimes!)
You may have done these checks, but others reading this thread may be able to chase their own electrical demons this way.
You may have done these checks, but others reading this thread may be able to chase their own electrical demons this way.
the first thing is the new wiring harness installed incorrectly, you have a nightmare ahead of you.
cryin.gif
cryin.gif
I agree with Ironhorse302, but you don't need a starter switch to check. Just unplug the wiring harness from the switch--I suspect the brake lights will go out when you do. If they do, jumper across the harness terminals with a piece of wire. I bet they will come on. If all this happens, then as he said, the problem is in the switch. Either it is binding and the rod is not moving as it should or the switch is bad. You might also check continuity of the switch with an ohmmeter with it out of the car, but the spring is pretty stout and hard to compress.
As I have posted on other threads on this forum, I finally gave up trying to get mine to work and installed a pressure switch on the brake line going to the front brakes.
As I have posted on other threads on this forum, I finally gave up trying to get mine to work and installed a pressure switch on the brake line going to the front brakes.
I unplugged the switch from the harness and the lights went out. Then I bypassed the switch and they turned on. You guys were right and the problem is the switch. I don't want to make the same mistake again and buy the wrong switch or a cheap switch. Can anyone recommend a Autozone/NAPA part number? I heard that the problem might also be that I used a switch for manual brakes when I should have used a switch for power brakes off of a 71 mustang.I agree with Ironhorse302, but you don't need a starter switch to check. Just unplug the wiring harness from the switch--I suspect the brake lights will go out when you do. If they do, jumper across the harness terminals with a piece of wire. I bet they will come on. If all this happens, then as he said, the problem is in the switch. Either it is binding and the rod is not moving as it should or the switch is bad. You might also check continuity of the switch with an ohmmeter with it out of the car, but the spring is pretty stout and hard to compress.
As I have posted on other threads on this forum, I finally gave up trying to get mine to work and installed a pressure switch on the brake line going to the front brakes.
suggestion
Suggestion:
After trying all the above to help you solve your problem, you may want to read my post on this post.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/718745-brake-lights-always.html
You may need to adjust the push rod in the master cylinder.
Sounds like you have a mechanical stop switch, some of the early mustangs have a pressure switch that screws into the master cylinder. both are covered in the listed post.
Hope this helps.
Joe
Suggestion:
After trying all the above to help you solve your problem, you may want to read my post on this post.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/718745-brake-lights-always.html
You may need to adjust the push rod in the master cylinder.
Sounds like you have a mechanical stop switch, some of the early mustangs have a pressure switch that screws into the master cylinder. both are covered in the listed post.
Hope this helps.
Joe
My son's 65 did the same thing. Remove the plastic washer...I could never get it adjusted right, adjust one way, lights stay on, adjust other way lights wouldn't come on when brake pressed, removed the plastic sleeve/washer all is good...
My problem has been solved. I replaced my switch with one from a 1971 mustang with power brakes from autozone. Thanks everyone for all of your help.
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