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Discussion Starter #1
So I was replacing a bunch of cooling system parts on my 2000 Mustang V6 today which included Radiator, upper/lower hoses, water pump, and thermostat. I got through all the 'difficult' parts like removing and reinstalling the power steering pump pulley and removing the stubborn bypass heater hose from the old h2o pump.

I was doing everything methodically trying to torque bolts to spec including the nuts on install of the new water pump which said between 51 and 70 ft/lbs torque according to the manual. Well... my Snap On toruqe wrench which has been calibrated, didn't stop on these nuts and I SNAPPED OF A STUD and the nut at the top. These are the studs that protrude from the block and come through the water pump. They are not bolts screwed into the block. I snapped the one on the bottom-left when looking at the installed pump.

I am so mad at myself and depressed I was saving all this $$ doing the job myself and I made a dumb mistake that I can not fix myself. What's done is done and now I need advice on ideas on how much something like this will cost to fix? Will a place drill out the remaining stud and helicoil it to allow screwing in a new bolt as opposed to a stud? I would think this could be done with the pump still installed. Will they want to completely remove the pump (after I spent all this time installing it :weeps) to charge me for R&R labor and weld it back together and make new threads? Something else?

This just happened a few hours ago and I am not done, so I don't know if it will even leak without that nut holding on the pump.

I feel awful and moneys tight (when is it not) so anyone who can tell me best course of action: go to the Ford Dealer because of the delicate nature of the block? go to another mechanic? see if it even leaks and do nothing?

Please advise and refrain from any comments about whatg I *should* of done about that stud. I can't believe I made such a huge mistake. I just need help on about how much something like this is going to cost to fix and what to ask for to know I am not getting scammed.

Thank you,
 

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Take a dremel and grind two opposite sides of the tip of the stud flat. You're going to put a cresent wrench on the stud and remove it. I wouldn't be surprised if the stud was lock-tited in, so you may need a hammer to break the torque. Just strike it quickly to break the torque and avoid breaking the tip of the stud. PB Blaster may ease removal, and I certainly endorse soaking the area for 30 minutes prior to removal.

Are you sure it's FT/lbs and not IN/lbs? I don't know off hand, but 51-70 ft/lbs sounds like a lot, and 51-70 in/lbs sounds like too little.

In the end, a sufficient amount of the appropriate gasket maker will prevent almost any leak. :bigthumbsup
 

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Oh, and you'll bring the stud to your local hardware store and see if they have a match. Bring the water pump, too, so that you can make sure you buy the correct length. You should be able to tell how long the bolt should be based on how the stud looks after removal.
 

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If it is a seized stud, I recommend AeroKroil over PB Blaster if you can find it...

Amazon.com: Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL): Automotive

PB is great stuff, and a I do use it myself, but I've just had more luck with the kroil than pb. Was introduced to it by my pops, who's a helo mechanic for military birds, and he swears up and down by this stuff when I was having problems with a seized egr tube nut. It worked where the pb didnt (but pb may have loosened it a bit... lol)

it also smells nice :winks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for resonding. So are you saying these studs that protrude from the engine are removable and can be purchased? I thought they were welded in or something.

If this is true I am not that far away from removing the pump back off if you are POSITIVE the stud can be removed and I can buy a new one.
 

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They are removable.

You're going to have to replace it with a bolt. You could cut the head off of the bolt and use a nut, but then this might happen again. :gringreen
 

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If it is a seized stud, I recommend AeroKroil over PB Blaster if you can find it...

Amazon.com: Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL): Automotive

PB is great stuff, and a I do use it myself, but I've just had more luck with the kroil than pb. Was introduced to it by my pops, who's a helo mechanic for military birds, and he swears up and down by this stuff when I was having problems with a seized egr tube nut. It worked where the pb didnt (but pb may have loosened it a bit... lol)

it also smells nice :winks

PB Blaster does smell like someone took a dump in old motor oil.
 

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why would he have to replace it with a bolt? I'm sure he could find a stud that would work...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK SUPER HUGE thanks so far for the advice!! :bigthumbsup I took the pump back off, bought some PB Blaster and a IRWIN 'Power-Grip' 7-piece extractor set. It actually goes around and grabs the outside of the threads (not a typical drill bit extractor set) and came right out with a drill!! PB Stuff and a knock of the hammer worked great!! :bounce2:

Now here's the new problem. I took this sucker out and the stud is 5.25" long or about 10.5mm. It has 8mm threads. It is REALLY long. I went to ACE hardware and they don't have any studs near that long. I called NAPA and some other stores too and nothing. It has 3/4" threads on each end and smooth down the shaft.

Where in the heck can I buy a replacement? Will the Ford dealer even sell anything like this. If I can find it online I will have it shipped fast so online is an option but I can't find it.
 

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ask ford.. maybe they can look up a part number and you can more easily search
 

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RockAuto Parts Catalog

Is the first of the three bolts pictured close to what you broke?

I agree with Markstang that you should ask the dealership, as they will be able to tell you the specs of the stud itself. If you buy that part from them, it would probably be in the 10-20 buck range.

I highly recommend Rockauto.com I had to replace the front upper a-arms on my wife's merc.mountaineer, and buying through them was less for the pair than a single from the local parts shop, and I got them the next day on standard shipping.

If it aint the right part, <5 bucks + shipping probably isnt much loss compared to dealership parts prices.
 

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unless those are the right studs.. get those..
 

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I recommended a bolt because I figured the stud would be very long(as they tend to be), and I doubt he would want to do this again, ever. Bolts have higher break-resistance when corroded and seized than studs w/ nuts. I recommend anti-seize, either way.

ACE doesn't have a great selection... I generally go to Home Depot or OSH. The bolt will only have to reach 2-3 inches into the block. It only needs to be long enough to support the other bolts and prevent the pump from being ripped off due to engine torque. That stud's length is overkill.

This being said, if you can, go with OEM equipment. I'm just trying to resolve the issue quickly and reliably.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Eureka! So here is how the story ends (I hope! :winks) I want to say thanks to everyone and especially @P4452 for the advice. I know if I had put it all back together and taken it to Ford to fix, they would have said "Sure we can fix that... we just have to charge you R&R on that Water Pump to remove the stud and then put a new one in." I am so glad I did it myself!! Saved me a lot of hassel!

So the longest bolt I could find anywhere on Sunday (and fordparts.com was down yesterday for repair so I couldn't search to see if I could buy a replacement) was a M8 x 1.25 x 110. It was a tad shorter than the OEM stud so it would only catch by about 8 threads instad of the full 15-20, but I figured with a little locktite and a lock washer, no problem.

Well I am pretty sure that would all work, but since I didn't finish last night (yes I watched the pro-bowl) I thought I would check FordParts.com again today and thankfully their site was back up. After putting in my VIN and going to Cooling -> Water Pump and Related Components, and then click "View Image" next to the water pump part, and selected sub-category: "Front cover & water pump assembly fasteners", I found the right part!! It's part #3 in the diagram a STUD M8 x 1.25 x 137.

I called my local Ford Dealer and it will be in by tomorrow morning for $12! Still a bit pricey for a stud, but hey it's the OEM part. So my little mistake cost me $32 for bit extractor set + $6 for PB blaster + $12 stud. The bit extractor set and PB blaster are reusable so not too bad overall.

Now for why this all happened... My bad rookie mistake. And you know what: I made the same mistake about 7 years ago and vowed to never let it happen again, but I did. It was 51-70 inch pounds of torque not ft-lbs. Ooops. :nono:

Thanks again for all the help and hopefully this thread is start to finish 'a fix' for anyone else down the road that has this happen to again or something similar.
 
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