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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy all,

I'm currently running a T-5 in my 66 coupe using the original clutch linkage and have had all sorts of problems breaking linkage parts. I'm using a new style bellhousing which I've modified to accept the 60's style clutch fork with a 10.5" diapgram clutch. I'm considering going to a cable shift setup from modern driveline and wondered if anyone else out there has tried one, and if so what kind of luck have you had with it.

Thanks,

John H.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Richard,

How many miles have you put on since the swap?

John
 

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I would either run it all modern or all old-school. Either use the 4speed bellhousing and run mechanical or go 5spd bellhousing and cable.

Then you shouldn't be busting stuff.
(I'm using the old-school way)

:drink:
 

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Go with the mustang steve setup. Get the adjustable firewall block it makes it easier to setup up the pedal the way you want. All you have to do is weld the quadrant to the top of your pedal assembly drill a hole through your firewall and run the cable. Very simple and works great. Cable might be in the way if you are running long tube headers or tri y. I run short tubes with my setup and everything fits fine. If you have long tubes and want to keep them then I suggest going with a hydraulic setup, a little more expensive but it is definately worth it. Get rid of all the mechanical setup, its a pain to deal with.
 

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I just bought the modern driveline clutch cable set up off ebay but it doesn't have any instructions with it. Does anyone have a set that I could get a copy of.

Thanks
 

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I've been running a T-5 in my 66 for a year with a late model bell housing modified as you. No trouble so for. Twenty years ago I kept having trouble with the z-bar or bell crank. The weld on the short arm kept cracking with hipo pressure plates until I had a triangle shaped piece of 1/4" steel welded to the short arm and transverse tube of added support. No trouble since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You've had much better luck with parts than I have then. Do you run a new style or old sytle clutch with your swap? I ask because it seems the new style 10.5" clutches are a quie a bit stiffer than the old style long and beck clutches. To date I've busted the weld on the short arm of the Z bar, the block side pivot, the assist spring under the dash (good riddance), the firewall to Z bar spring, and two of the pivot brackets that sit inside the bellhousing and hold the clutch fork. Hence the cable setup : )

John
 
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