[2kids_1pony]

Hey gang...Im about to jump into the world of mods and wanted some opinions on 2 or 3 aspects:

1) CAI...Heard really good things about slapping one on, and I'm absolutely convinced I should and will. My Q is, go Steeda? K&N? JTL? There's a myriad of options out there, and if I'm gonna be out a few hundred bucks on this, I want some bang for my buck. I've read 16 pages of the intake thread, A LOT of the info up there is years old and quite honestly I dont know if its still applicable today.

2) Underdrive Pulleys...Found the set i want, made by Steeda:
Steeda 4.6L Underdrive Pulleys (Late 2001-2004 Mustang GT) 701-0003 - Free Shipping!
Been having an intermittent issue w/ the battery indicator coming on, matters not at idle or while driving. Autozone tested the battery and starter ok, but indicated the alternator was bad. All that being said, from what I've read the new pulley system adds a wee bit of "strain" on the alternator, and since mine is already needing to be replaced can I ask for a few suggestions on amperage and mfr/cost? And I think i should replace the serpentine belt while im at it...?

3) After the pulleys, will I need to retune her?

Im sure I had a more cogent and relevant third question, but Im old and forgetful :shigrin Thanks for any and all suggestions!

-2k1p

 

[supersnake67]

All intakes are the same and it doesnt feel any different. I bought a K&N for my 2005 for 300 bucks new and I felt a big fat nothing. Then bought a 2004 and waited and found a JLT used on ebay for 85 bucks, but I only did it for appearance. I painted it redfire to match my car. Skip the pulleys. Do GEARS FIRST !!!! 4.10's or 3.73's and a tuner to fix the speedo. I would focus on heads, cams, superchargers..... I have over 3 grand in my car in appearance and bolt ons and its no faster than the day I bought it with the exceptions of my gears. Long story short spend wisely

 

[Lackey'sGT]

All intakes are the same and it doesnt feel any different. I bought a K&N for my 2005 for 300 bucks new and I felt a big fat nothing. Then bought a 2004 and waited and found a JLT used on ebay for 85 bucks, but I only did it for appearance. I painted it redfire to match my car. Skip the pulleys. Do GEARS FIRST !!!! 4.10's or 3.73's and a tuner to fix the speedo. I would focus on heads, cams, superchargers..... I have over 3 grand in my car in appearance and bolt ons and its no faster than the day I bought it with the exceptions of my gears. Long story short spend wisely

True that!
There is a million threads about this very subject.

1 The CAI wont do anything but give you looks. My favorite is JLT!
2 Pulleys also dont do anything and could potentially harm your alternator.
3 You wont have to retune for the pulleys if you end up getting them.

All and all get them if you want them its fun modding our cars so if its what you want go for it but you wont see gains with just those mods.

I'd get:
1 Subframe connectors(not that expensive and have a place weld them in)
2 Gears/tuner combo (Gears are worth the money but if you aren't comfortable with putting them in I'd pay someone instead of doing it yourself) Also the tuner will fix your speedometer
3 Off road Mid pipe is always a great choice for sound!!!!!!!

 

[supersnake67]

So do subframe connectors really make that big a difference? Was looking at front and rear strut bars a while ago as well as rear lower control arms , but just have so much other stuff I want.
I'd get:
1 Subframe connectors(not that expensive and have a place weld them in.

 

[2kids_1pony]

Thx for the advice!

Been looking at the gears too, hells yes. Yesterday morning I found myself side-by-side w/ a 2011/2012 GT and we were both in each others' way...he merging left, me merging right. So as we're deciding this at about 20mph or so, he punches it and i swear to god he was gone in 1.2 sec's!!
**THAT** is what i want :bigthumbsup

I actually feel rather emboldened to do most of the mod-work myself, from reading here, seeing some how-to videos, and visualizing the process. Im no greasemonkey, but i am break/fix oriented. Plus i really want to do this myself, get to know the how and why of my ride.:yup:

 

[Lackey'sGT]

So do subframe connectors really make that big a difference? Was looking at front and rear strut bars a while ago as well as rear lower control arms , but just have so much other stuff I want.
I'd get:
1 Subframe connectors(not that expensive and have a place weld them in.

I felt a difference between them off and on however its like when doing the lower control arms, its an improvement over stock so hard numbers on how much it helps is hard to do.
This is a write up that muscle mustangs did:

Subframe connectors stiffen the chassis two ways: They join the front and rear subframes with a solid tube, and they support the floorpan at the rear seat mounts. Tying the subframes together supposedly reduces overall chassis flex, and supporting the floorpan reduces seat-mount wobble, which is a big problem in high-mileage Mustangs. The idea being that you should get the connecters in there before the stress takes its toll. Thus, our test consisted of stressing a Mustang chassis three ways-bending the chassis, twisting the chassis, and flexing the floorpan-all to see if the connectors could quell the flex.

Read more: Why Subframe Connectors Benefit Your Mustang - Connecting The Dots - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine
​

 

[Lackey'sGT]

Thx for the advice!

Been looking at the gears too, hells yes. Yesterday morning I found myself side-by-side w/ a 2011/2012 GT and we were both in each others' way...he merging left, me merging right. So as we're deciding this at about 20mph or so, he punches it and i swear to god he was gone in 1.2 sec's!!
**THAT** is what i want :bigthumbsup

I actually feel rather emboldened to do most of the mod-work myself, from reading here, seeing some how-to videos, and visualizing the process. Im no greasemonkey, but i am break/fix oriented. Plus i really want to do this myself, get to know the how and why of my ride.:yup:

Doing mod work yourself is the best part! :bigthumbsup

 

[AMWill]

Thx for the advice!

Been looking at the gears too, hells yes. Yesterday morning I found myself side-by-side w/ a 2011/2012 GT and we were both in each others' way...he merging left, me merging right. So as we're deciding this at about 20mph or so, he punches it and i swear to god he was gone in 1.2 sec's!!
**THAT** is what i want :bigthumbsup

I actually feel rather emboldened to do most of the mod-work myself, from reading here, seeing some how-to videos, and visualizing the process. Im no greasemonkey, but i am break/fix oriented. Plus i really want to do this myself, get to know the how and why of my ride.:yup:

The new GT 5.0's are pretty wicked beasts, aren't they haha. If you want to be running in their league, you're going to need some serious power mods. The best way to easily hit that sweet spot is getting some forced induction. This is of course very costly, but even full bolt-ons will net you less power and be at a similar cost total.

These guys have you headed down the right path suspension wies, though. Weld in subframe connectors, lower control arms, upper control arms, pan-hard bar, and a rear sway bar is going to really help you tame all of that power. Don't forget a serious performance tire goes a long way too!

Let me know if you have any troubles picking out performance or suspension components. I'd be happy to help you out!

Shane

 

[2kids_1pony]

Looks like i'll need to start a little lower than i had originally thought. The reasoning is sound, reinforce it so it can handle future mods...think i just added about 10 items to my to-do list :hihi:

How about tackling this from a different perspective....
LOVE the power and thrill of driving my beastie, but it IS a daily vehicle so there is a "too much" threshold
Money isn't tight, but it aint cheap either, so this project will likely take 3 yrs or so redoing her from (it would seem) the ground up (a timeframe I knew from the beginning)
No plans on taking her to the track, not for 3 years or so :shigrin

So starting low, go subframe then control arms, maybe CC plates, springs, etc....basically suspension first, then start tackling the emissions/intake and/or gears?

Honestly, i LOVE the sound of doing all of this :bigthumbsup

 

[supersnake67]

I wanted to fix my appearance first so I bought black staggered 03 cobra wheels , lowering springs and CC plates. Then it went on from there. Just figure what is more important first speed or looks. "Lackeys GT" funny you mention seat wobble my passenger seat shakes so bad and the headrest and seat back leather rubbing together is so squeaky and it drives me nuts. Wonder if that is why

 

[supersnake67]

I felt a difference between them off and on however its like when doing the lower control arms, its an improvement over stock so hard numbers on how much it helps is hard to do.
This is a write up that muscle mustangs did:

Subframe connectors stiffen the chassis two ways: They join the front and rear subframes with a solid tube, and they support the floorpan at the rear seat mounts. Tying the subframes together supposedly reduces overall chassis flex, and supporting the floorpan reduces seat-mount wobble, which is a big problem in high-mileage Mustangs. The idea being that you should get the connecters in there before the stress takes its toll. Thus, our test consisted of stressing a Mustang chassis three ways-bending the chassis, twisting the chassis, and flexing the floorpan-all to see if the connectors could quell the flex.

Read more: Why Subframe Connectors Benefit Your Mustang - Connecting The Dots - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine
​

Thanks for the info.

 

[2kids_1pony]

I wanted to fix my appearance first so I bought black staggered 03 cobra wheels , lowering springs and CC plates. Then it went on from there. Just figure what is more important first speed or looks.

I hear ya bud. Im not focused on the appearances at this stage, what with the all-around scratches she's suffered from previous ownership. I figure the paint is the last on my list (mainly due to costs) with rims/tires 2nd to last (and for the same reasons lol).
I'd rather have reliability (and speed, and throaty growl, and scratching 3rd, and and and...) over the appearances at this stage. Hell, Im even game-planning for a charcoal/black interior right before the paint job, go for a nice red-on-black theme but i need to keep my better half in a good mood about me and my newfound desire for mods!

MAN this is addictive....

 

[supersnake67]

It'll keep you up at night sometimes thinking about whats next and where the money is coming from. Atleast it did me. I know my original goal is and will be supercharged so I tackled the appearance first knowing 5 grand for a supercharger is a ways off, but will be done down the road. I told my lady I was getting rid of my 2005 GT to save some money and help out more around the house with the exception that I get to make this one my own...... So that's my get outa jail free card. lol