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Discussion Starter #1
So I own a 2001 Bullitt that I have recently ordered SLP Long Tube Headers, Bassani Offroad X-Pipe, Borla Stingers, and Steeda Underdrive pulleys for. Now I am looking to get into doing the Cams and valve springs, the Heads, and the Pistons. I realize I am probably looking at spending a good chunk of change to get these things done. Money is not really an issue, I am looking to get the most power possible from these upgrades. So what I am wanting to know is how to go about doing this?? what are the exact parts I need to do all of this? And with the cams I want the roughest idle possible for my model. Any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks
 

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For cams I suggest some hitech stage 2 cams. They make really good HP and the idle is aggressive. Go on youtube to get an idea about what cams sound like.
 

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I have an extra set of HiTech Stage 2's that are brand new that I'd sell for a VERY good price. I think they're going for $639 right now, these are brand new in the plastic, and I'd sell them for $500 shipped.
 

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definately go with the hitechs stage 2, and $500 is really a good deal. you dont even need to upgrade the valve springs if you degree them properly, also if i were you i would honestly skip the heads and just go forced induction
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So how rough of an idle will I get with those cams, And you say skip the heads and go strait to forced induction, what is your take on kenne Bell???
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so i like that idle enough, how would you want me to pay you if i did end up buying the cams from you. definitley interested though.




Bullitt - when you said you would skip the heads and go straight forced induction, i am tired of the limits of the 2V heads that my car has now, what would be the benefits of skipping doing the heads and going straight to forced induction??
 

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Forced induction covers up inefficiencies of engine builds, but I believe in the total package. I'm faster than 90% of the forced induction 2V's here on the boards without touching the engine so far, because I set a plan and knew what I wanted my end goal to be.

If you know what your end goal is, it's easier to come up with a viable package, and then decide the best route to get there based on budget and expectations.

As far as the cams, my son has a paypal account that I can use to receive money.
 

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kenne bell is a great choice, but its all in what you want to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so how exactly did u set your plan?? would you suggest doing the cams and then a kenne bell, I am pretty new to the whole, actually modifying the motor thing and need someone who is willing to help me out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh and i will send you my address, as soon as i send the money to your paypal account, what is the information for your account?
 

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: These are about as rough as you can get and still maintain something that resembles low end torque said:
Not notch the pistons are you kidding me! These cams have been responsible for more bent valves. Sure Bart from hi tech will tell you they are drop in but that's simply bs. Just do a search. Now to the op if you can't degree cams I would not touch those cams. I would stick with a stage 1 cams as they will fit with no problem and can be installed advanced.
 

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If they're degreed at 113, they fit fine.

He will be close enough to me once he gets back that I can help him with the degreeing process.
 

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I'm going from memory, but isn't 113 centerline 2* retarded?
 

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1 degree..... They're spec'd for 112 installed.

Sometimes they clear at 112, but even installed at 113, they're not bad at all. The main problem for the PTV clearance is that they're ground by Comp, who can't seem to grind a cam perfect to save their lives. And the passenger's cam gears are typically off quite a bit from Ford. Put those two together, and that's why they hit sometimes.

I would degree them in using the PTV method, but 113 typically gives them more than enough room, and you don't lose too much low end.

I've seen and dealt with quite a few sets of these cams, and when they're properly degreed in and checked, they're fine. They have the same exact intake lobe as the Comp 270's, and since that's the side that has clearance problems, you just install them like you would a Comp 270.
 

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I was thinking 111 was the centerline even at 112- 113 you are still going to be slightly kissing the piston. The only cams comp has ground close to spec is livernois cams, and that was told to me by someone who has degreed more cams than both of us put together lol. By the question the op was asking it was quite obvious he didn't have much understanding of the risk ptv contact with cams.
 
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