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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I finally got the TCI 3K installed yesterday. I haven't really tested it out yet because 1) I want to break it in a little and 2) the shop confirmed that I have a bad header gasket which is why the car is ticking so badly. The gasket will be replaced this weekend hopefully.

Anyway, I did some more reading and discovered that the rule of thumb is to get a converter that's about a couple 100 less than peak torque. I'm cool with that, but my peak torque is at 4400 rpms! :happyhapp I don't think I should have gotten a 4K stall converter, so can tuning help lower where the torque is made? Maybe that's not what I'm trying to say, but I don't know any other way to say it. Maybe a different mod? I'll really give it a whirl once I get the headers fixed, but I didn't really feel a difference when I did get on it; not like I was expecting anyway.

Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe not so much the t/c or tranny, but just normal engine tuning. Would that possibly help? I don't know if I should panic since I haven't been able to really test it out, but it seems like this could be an issue worth addressing.
 

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Maybe not so much the t/c or tranny, but just normal engine tuning. Would that possibly help? I don't know if I should panic since I haven't been able to really test it out, but it seems like this could be an issue worth addressing.
I would suspect that you may need to play with the shift points some.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know that's something I probably shouldn't mess with, but you think I can do that with the X-Cal and just play with it until I get it where I like it? That is the 'SHIFT PRESS' option right?
 

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You can change the converter performance some, but only slightly with tuning. The maximum stall is dependent on the power output of the engine. In other words, if you are tuned for max torque at low to mid range rpm, you may get a little higher flash rpm when you mat the throttle, versus tuned for max power above the max stall speed of the converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You can change the converter performance some, but only slightly with tuning. The maximum stall is dependent on the power output of the engine. In other words, if you are tuned for max torque at low to mid range rpm, you may get a little higher flash rpm when you mat the throttle, versus tuned for max power above the max stall speed of the converter.
So you're saying I'll feel it a bit more at the track versus the street? I'm cool with that; I got it for the track anyway, provided that's what you are saying.
 

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Even on the street, you should notice a difference over stock if the converter is working properly. If you power brake it, how many rpm will it hold? It should be close to the rated rpm. With the way these 3 valve engines don't make alot of torque below 4000 rpm, a 3000 stall will help your launch a little, but nothing drastic. To get the maximum benefit, the stall needs to be closer to 4000 rpm. If this were a race only application, you would want to be more like 5000-5500. Be aware that as you increase the stall speed, ie. slippage, you create alot of heat when under a heavy load. An external cooler is needed to keep the fluid temp down.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Even on the street, you should notice a difference over stock if the converter is working properly. If you power brake it, how many rpm will it hold? It should be close to the rated rpm. With the way these 3 valve engines don't make alot of torque below 4000 rpm, a 3000 stall will help your launch a little, but nothing drastic. To get the maximum benefit, the stall needs to be closer to 4000 rpm. If this were a race only application, you would want to be more like 5000-5500. Be aware that as you increase the stall speed, ie. slippage, you create alot of heat when under a heavy load. An external cooler is needed to keep the fluid temp down.
I'll just have to wait until I get the header fixed to really see what it can do.

I added the deep tranny pan to accomodate the extra heat.
 

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The deep pan will help some, as it will take longer to heat up more fluid. However, once it gets hot, there is nothing there to dissipate the heat. You essentially have a 12qt. pan of hot fluid versus an 8 qt. pan of hot fluid.
 

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The deep pan will help some, as it will take longer to heat up more fluid. However, once it gets hot, there is nothing there to dissipate the heat. You essentially have a 12qt. pan of hot fluid versus an 8 qt. pan of hot fluid.
I thoght about that as well. The pan has fins to dissipate the heat, but I'm not 100% sure about their effectiveness. I ordered a set of gauges yesterday, so I'll use it to keep an eye on the tranny and monitor how hot it gets for now. If it can't handle the track, I'll look into the cooler.

Anyone know the regular temp range for a tranny? Heck, while I'm on the subject, anyone know the proper oil temp and pressure as well?
 

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Not sure on the line pressure. Maybe some trans builder will chime in. As far as fluid temp, with my Powerglide, I tried not to exceed 250 degrees.
 

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Definetly not a bad idea. On my race car, I had one mounted under the floor.
 
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