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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks. Hope you can help me. As mentioned in the past, this is my first Mustang so I'm kinda new to all things classic Fords. I just pulled and swapped the engine in my '66. Nothing fancy, 200 CI straight 6 came out, a rebuilt 200 CI straight 6 went in. I fired her up, no issues. She sounds beautiful.

However, check out the pic. When I went to connect the throttle/accelerator cable to the new carb, I am short a couple of inches. I've used throttle linkage kits in the past, but I can't seem to find anything to work on this 200? Because of the cable bracket, I can't move the cable to the right.

That said, am I going to have to get a whole new accelerator cable and re-do the whole thing? Or does anyone know of a good kit/solution for this problem? Any custom/homemade remedies? I'm not showing the car or anything like that, so the fix just needs to work. Aesthetics don't matter to me as long as it is safe.
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Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive air manifold Gas
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive air manifold Gas
Appreciate the help.
 

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1967 Mercury Cougar XR7
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I'm not asking to be mean, but why not use the original linkage? It's very simple and super effective! The original pedal and setup should be cheaper than a cable pull setup, and will last virtually forever too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Haha. No offense taken. I am using the original setup. However I had to change the carburetor and on this new engine which is from a Comet for some reason it does not fit.
 

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Your original setup is cable-pull!? I thought all of these used a rod and the pedal had a long arm coming up the firewall to move it? It should work, regardless of what carb spacer or whatnot you've got!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah the original engine I believe was from a 78 Fairmont and it was cable pull. I've seen the 289s have what you described but I haven't seen any 200s that are like that. But the cable falls a couple of inches short and I can't connect them. I thought about just buying a whole new setup as I mentioned in the original post, I just didn't want to go through the expense, but it seems like I might have to and run it through the firewall on the passenger side of the engine wall.
 

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This is what the throttle setup looked like originally. Super simple and it works great. You could get an original gas pedal and linkage, and set it up for less than you could buy another cable pull setup. It will work better, too.

If I remember right, the I6 accelerator arm (part of the gas pedal) sticks out farther to the passenger side than the V8 version - but I could be wrong.
 

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It looks to me that the carburetor is mounted 90 degrees from how it should be mounted. The choke should be on the passenger side and the throttle linkage on the drover's side. The linkage pulls straight back towards the driver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
View attachment 783468 View attachment 783469

This is what the throttle setup looked like originally. Super simple and it works great. You could get an original gas pedal and linkage, and set it up for less than you could buy another cable pull setup. It will work better, too.

If I remember right, the I6 accelerator arm (part of the gas pedal) sticks out farther to the passenger side than the V8 version - but I could be wrong.
I am really glad you posted this. I completely forgot I had a Chilton's manual in the toolbox along with another shop manual. Did the whole engine swap without it. Duh. Anyway, thanks for the pic and post. Here's what I found in the Chilton's manual. Turns out the throttle linkage I have is correct for a manual transmission. I have a 3 spd. Check out this pic. What you're showing me they have listed for the automatic transmission. Wonder if I can use the same set up minus the kickdown?

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It looks to me that the carburetor is mounted 90 degrees from how it should be mounted. The choke should be on the passenger side and the throttle linkage on the drover's side. The linkage pulls straight back towards the driver.
Thanks for the reply. Everything I've seen and read shows that the crab is installed correctly. But that would be a great, easy fix to just rotate it a bit.
 

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Thanks for the reply. Everything I've seen and read shows that the crab is installed correctly. But that would be a great, easy fix to just rotate it a bit.
There's the problem, using seafood in place of a simple mechanical contraption. ;)
 
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I am really glad you posted this. I completely forgot I had a Chilton's manual in the toolbox along with another shop manual. Did the whole engine swap without it. Duh. Anyway, thanks for the pic and post. Here's what I found in the Chilton's manual. Turns out the throttle linkage I have is correct for a manual transmission. I have a 3 spd. Check out this pic. What you're showing me they have listed for the automatic transmission. Wonder if I can use the same set up minus the kickdown?

View attachment 783470
In answer to your question - yes you can. And the 'correct' rotation of your carb is so the top of the throttle linkage plate on the carb moves back toward the firewall when you step on the gas. I.E., the butterfly opens with the rising edge toward the front of the car. Cable pull stuff, well, ... pulls. It does not "push" very well. The mechanical setup for your car does both, so even if the throttle gets stuck somehow, you can put your toe under the gas pedal and un-stick it easily. =)
And you don't even have to cut off the kickdown arm on the "automatic" version; just don't hook anything to it. It'll be fine.
 

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