Ford Mustang Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What can I use to remove the carbon build up on a 2.3l 8 plug cylinder head?
I want to thoroughly clean this head and then put it back on the engine.
My aluminium oil pan has a crack - will it be ok with some silicone placed in the crack and then tighten up the bolts? BTW - what is the torquing sequence for this oilpan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,791 Posts
I like a wire wheel in a drill or a scotch brite disk on a right angle die grinder to clean carbon out of combustion chambers. Works great and doesn't try to remove a bunch of metal.


As for the oil pan, I don't think the silicone is going to hold. You might be able to bevel the crack, stop drill the ends, and fill it with J.B. weld, but the expansion of the aluminum vs. the expansion of the epoxy under heat may open the crack up again. The sure fire way is to do drill, bevel, then weld the crack or just replace the oil pan with a good junkyard replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
what about the torquing sequence for the oil pan?
It really isn't that big of a deal. The torqueing procedure says that you finger tighten all the bolts (start out at 4 different corners) and then torque them down to 15ft-lbs or something like that. But after finger tightening, it doesn't matter what order you do it in.

Steve:bigthumbsup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,791 Posts
It kinda does matter. I like to tighten the ends where the front seal cover and rear main cap are first. Dab silicone in the corners where it transitions from the cover and the cap to the block to help prevent leaks in there, then criss-cross your way to the center from each end.

It's an o-ring gasket, so torque specs aren't life or death. German spec is fine (Gudenteight) :)

*******/Canadian torque spec (tighten it til it strips then back off a 1/4 turn) is too much. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
It kinda does matter. I like to tighten the ends where the front seal cover and rear main cap are first. Dab silicone in the corners where it transitions from the cover and the cap to the block to help prevent leaks in there, then criss-cross your way to the center from each end.

It's an o-ring gasket, so torque specs aren't life or death. German spec is fine (Gudenteight) :)

*******/Canadian torque spec (tighten it til it strips then back off a 1/4 turn) is too much. :)
Just because we have lower standards means nothing!.... Oh wait, it kinda does! EEK!:rollgrin:

So anways, I remember I used my chiltons manual when installing my pan and it stated that you use the plastic pan guide "bolts" that hold it in place and then finger tighten all the bolts and it states that you torque them down in a clockwise order.And this is a california company that makes these books!

The oil pan torque specs have a large room for error and the sequence is not as important as some other parts of the engine, like the crank and the head!

Steve:bigthumbsup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,791 Posts
Those instructions sound like they're more for a cork gasket and steel pan than the o-ring/aluminum pan on the DP engines. Those plastic guide pins keep the gasket in place so the bolt holes in the gasket stay lined up with the pan and block.

Nothing good can come from a Canadian following instructions found in a book published in California. It's akin to Helen Keller walking Ray Charles to his piano. :cooldude:
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top