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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done this before??? If so, what are the steps, and how long did it take to do??

I'm interested in getting my valve covers powder coated and am not sure if it would save me some time to do the valve cover removal and cdmp install at the same time.
Any insight is appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Let me answer my own question, to some extent. I knew i saw it somewhere before.

http://mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/m5lp_0510_cmrc_delete/

Not the Steeda one, but more or less the same thing from Paul's high performance, and $199 for an approx 10 rwhp gain sounds good to me. Will have to dyno in the spring.
 

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Learn something everyday, never heard of this, but it does look like it will require a engine retune. May as well get your CAI while your at it. :eyebulge:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
pcfrisch said:
Learn something everyday, never heard of this, but it does look like it will require a engine retune. May as well get your CAI while your at it. :eyebulge:
That's what I'm thinking. I want affordable mods that have good bang for the buck.
 

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seems like you cant do a dang thing to these new mustangs without a tune. guess my first performance mod needs to be an x-cal2 since i can afford only one mod at a time....
 

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I read a few stories in mags where they rigged the stock plates open. I am sure it can be done machanically. What controls when and how much these things open? Is it in the software? If so can it be recoded to just stay open? Either way you save money and you dont have to pull the intake.
 

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Well, first off you don't have to remove the valve covers to remove the plenium, or vise versa. So I don't know if doing them at the same time is going to save you any time.. And yes, you will most definitely need a retune once you install them. The install is pretty straight forward. Should only take you about an hour.
 

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Waxed'05 GT said:
Let me answer my own question, to some extent. I knew i saw it somewhere before.

http://mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/m5lp_0510_cmrc_delete/

Not the Steeda one, but more or less the same thing from Paul's high performance, and $199 for an approx 10 rwhp gain sounds good to me. Will have to dyno in the spring.
I've been thinking about this part for a while now (among others), and something dawned on me after looking at the install photos and captions on this link. The servo on the back of the intake manifold that moves the "tumble plate actuating rods" appears to work in the same manner as a servo that controls steering on your average R/C car. Who's to say you couldn't just disconnect the rods from the servo or remove them completely and then lock the tumble plate in the open position with some sort of fastener? If that worked, you could use the money you saved by not buying the aftermarket part to get a tune on a dyno. Has anyone else thought of this or does it sound crazy?
 

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ChestyP79 said:
Who's to say you couldn't just disconnect the rods from the servo or remove them completely and then lock the tumble plate in the open position with some sort of fastener?
I think the idea is that even when wide open the tumble plates interfere with airflow.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
nonsensez9 said:
I think the idea is that even when wide open the tumble plates interfere with airflow.
That's my take on it as well.
My biggest concern with the install is disconnecting the green (fuel line piece - I think it is) the instructions say to use the "special tool".
 

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Does anyone know what the butterfly in the CMP themselve do? They must be there for a reason, right? Is there a down side to replacing them?
 
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