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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I got my 3 exhaust leaks fixed last Friday. Cold AC fluid dripped onto the pipe between my cat and header, cracking it. He double welded it shut. Then, he welded shut the 2 pin-hole leaks on the mufflers. Come Sunday night, my check engine light comes on. All fluids are fine, went to Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts and their scanners wouldn't work. The guy at Autozone told me my cigarette lighter fuse was blown, which wouldn't let him read the error, he was wrong. Both lighters work, and all my fuses are intact. The car runs perfectly fine and sounds fine. So I'm thinking maybe O2 sensors? Any suggestions?
 

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Guys, the fuse that powers the power port (lighter) also powers the ODB2 port. The scanner gets it's power from the ODB2 port. No power, no scanner.

OBTW, there are separate fuses for the lighter sockets. Start with fuse F2.31 in the CJB. Did you check all of them?

Just wondering, did the welder disconnect the battery while welding?
 

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Guys, the fuse that powers the power port (lighter) also powers the ODB2 port. The scanner gets it's power from the ODB2 port. No power, no scanner.

OBTW, there are separate fuses for the lighter sockets. Start with fuse F2.31 in the CJB. Did you check all of them?

Just wondering, did the welder disconnect the battery while welding?
This is a very good point. Always disconnect your battery if you are putting an outside powersource on the car.....

Also, do not guess at what is wrong. Have the code read before throwing parts at it......
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yea both places said it wouldn't let them read the code. So I'll probably take it back to him and explain it. Also, dumb question, but what's the CJB? and where is it at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not sure what to check for wiring, I don't know much about cars but I'm learning. So should I disconnect and reconnect the battery and see if that works?

EDIT: Also, sometimes my theft light blinks for maybe 30 seconds to a minute after I shut the door. It doesn't happen every time though. Downloaded the attachments from one of the posts. Where's the CJB located? I bought an autozone repair manual and it doesn't have it in it.
 

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The theft light is susposed to slow blink all of the time. It act as a reminder there is a theft system.

It's the fast blink that's a problem.

F1=BJB=Battery Junction Box-located engine bay near battery
F2=CJB=Central Junction Box-located driver's kick panel

Do you have an owner's manual?

Disconnecting the battery is not going to reset a blown fuse.

If you do not feel confident about checking fuses, consider the services of a professional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I checked both those boxes and pulled out every fuse and they all looked perfectly fine. I'm gonna double check again today though just to make sure that I didn't miss anything. I don't have an owner's manual, it didn't come with one when I bought it.
 

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1. As long as you oil level is right and you have oil pressure, and the car is running well, don't panic if your check engine light is on.
2. You can buy an OBD2 scanner that plugs into an OSB port on a laptop PC for $35 on line. It works with all cars '96 and newer and is an essential tool in your tool box. Read the code and find out what it means, but don't trade code diagnostics for old school common sense.
3. Sometimes an engine 'throws a code', or two, and they are meaningless. The OBD scanner can reset these and turn the dash light off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I turned it on today for the first time and the theft light was blinking fast. I turned it on and off 3 times and it didn't flash those 3 times, only the first. What's the problem when that happens? And Yadkin will that scanner work even though the 2 at autozone and advanced auto parts couldn't read it?
 
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1. As long as you oil level is right and you have oil pressure, and the car is running well, don't panic if your check engine light is on.
2. You can buy an OBD2 scanner that plugs into an OSB port on a laptop PC for $35 on line. It works with all cars '96 and newer and is an essential tool in your tool box. Read the code and find out what it means, but don't trade code diagnostics for old school common sense.
3. Sometimes an engine 'throws a code', or two, and they are meaningless. The OBD scanner can reset these and turn the dash light off.
Sounds like a good way to ruin an engine. There is a reason why the car throws a code. It doesn't just do it for fun.

If a handheld scanner is not reading, then a computer reader is not going to work either.
 

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Sounds like a good way to ruin an engine. There is a reason why the car throws a code. It doesn't just do it for fun.

If a handheld scanner is not reading, then a computer reader is not going to work either.
Not quite. If an engine has oil and oil pressure and is running well, then it's running well. There are many cases where false codes indicate something otherwise.

My suggestion to the poster that he get a $35 scanner doesn't mean that he ignore a blow fuse being diagnosed by others. If he had one it would save time and frustration as well as help to diagnose the reason why someone else's scanner isn't working.
 

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Also, could there be something wrong with the fuse even if it looks fine and the middle isn't broken?
Yes. Use a continuity tester across the fuse contacts to tell if its really blown. Or replace with a known good fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Alright, I'll see if my dad has one or I'll pick up it at work. Also, I told a girl at work about it and she said she'll let me use her scanner. (She's got a 1998 GT)
 
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