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Discussion Starter #1
89 5.0

I replaced my MAP sensor and the code 22 went away.
Now after rechecking, I am getting codes 44 & 94 with the KOER test.
Where do i go from here?

94 - Secondary Air Injection Inoperative. bank two, driver side
44 - Secondary Air System Inoperative. bank one, passenger side

Thanks for the help
 

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If you are not running the Smog pump. Then 94 and 44 equals a Systems pass. Those codes dont cause any drivability problems
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you are not running the Smog pump. Then 94 and 44 equals a Systems pass. Those codes dont cause any drivability problems
Yes I am running a smog pump.
Still smells like it is running rich.
Maybe o2 sensors?
 

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Make sure all the vac lines are hooked to the TAB and TAD solenoids. They are behind the passenger side strut tower, Should be two side by side. make sure they are pluged in electrically also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Make sure all the vac lines are hooked to the TAB and TAD solenoids. They are behind the passenger side strut tower, Should be two side by side. make sure they are pluged in electrically also.

Both electrical and vacuum lines are plugged in and connected to the 2 solenoids.
What is the next step?

Thanks
 

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Get the engine to normal operating temp, pull the vacuum line off of the Valve( not solenoid) And see if you get vacuum. do this for both valves.

If no vacuum, probably the solenoid/s. If you have vacuum, probably one or both of the air bypass valves.
 

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Get the engine to normal operating temp, pull the vacuum line off of the Valve( not solenoid) And see if you get vacuum. do this for both valves.

If no vacuum, probably the solenoid/s. If you have vacuum, probably one or both of the air bypass valves.
When you say pull the vacuum line off of the Valve, are you talking about the TAB & TAD?

Are these also the air bypass valves?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Get the engine to normal operating temp, pull the vacuum line off of the Valve( not solenoid) And see if you get vacuum. do this for both valves.

If no vacuum, probably the solenoid/s. If you have vacuum, probably one or both of the air bypass valves.
I just checked and there is vacuum going to both the TAB &TAD.
There is also a valve that looks similar that is just above the TAB/TAD valves. There is also vacuum going to it. Not sure what this valve is called.
Also my car is a california car, It may have additional components to meet the EPA regs of the day.
 

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The similar solenoid is the EGR valve solenoid. Dont get valves a solenoids mixed up here. The electrical components are Solenoids, the vacuum lines run to the Valves. Dont worry about the top solenoid.

You can disconnect the out going hose on the valves, start the car and apply vacuum with a vacuum pump, to see if the diaphram in the valves are bad.
 

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I just checked and there is vacuum going to both the TAB &TAD.
There is also a valve that looks similar that is just above the TAB/TAD valves. There is also vacuum going to it. Not sure what this valve is called.
Also my car is a california car, It may have additional components to meet the EPA regs of the day.

Also, while there may be vacuum going to the TAB and TAD, you need to make sure that vacuum is reaching the Air diverter valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also, while there may be vacuum going to the TAB and TAD, you need to make sure that vacuum is reaching the Air diverter valves.
Thanks 89 :bigthumbsup

I will check that next
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also, while there may be vacuum going to the TAB and TAD, you need to make sure that vacuum is reaching the Air diverter valves.
Just checked and I do have vacuum to the air diverter and air bypass valves at idle.
I did notice that there was no vacuum to the EGR valve when the throttle was opened though.:headscratch:
 

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EGR is a seperate system.

Now you need to unhook the hose going to the Air Diverter valves, and make sure air is Passing through them. Thats why I was telling you to use a Vacuum pump to test the diaphram in the Air diverter valves. Also make sure none of the Smog hoses are clogged up.

Since you have vacuum reaching the valves, just remove the output side of the diverter hose, and feel if the air is traveling through them
 

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Discussion Starter #14
EGR is a seperate system.

Now you need to unhook the hose going to the Air Diverter valves, and make sure air is Passing through them. Thats why I was telling you to use a Vacuum pump to test the diaphram in the Air diverter valves. Also make sure none of the Smog hoses are clogged up.

Since you have vacuum reaching the valves, just remove the output side of the diverter hose, and feel if the air is traveling through them
I'll try that after work today.
Thanks for sticking with me on this 89 :bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just ran the test results are as follows:

disconnected the two hose coming out of the air diverter valve and with the engine running at op temp, Had air coming out of one port only.
I disconnected the vacuum line going to the diverter valve and there was no vacuum.
I then connected a vacuum pump to the diverter valve and when i pulled a vacuum, the other port on the diverter valve opened blowing air but the other port did not have any air coming out at that time.
When the vacuum was released, the air started blowing out of the opposite port.

When i checked for vacuum earlier at the diverter valve, i had vacuum.
Does the diverter valve receive vacuum all the time or intermittently?

Should both ports be blowing air at the same time?

What next?
 

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The solenoids are switched on and off by the ECM.

Have you checke the crossover tube at the back of the heads, to make sure they arent clogged up? That would be my test.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The solenoids are switched on and off by the ECM.

Have you checke the crossover tube at the back of the heads, to make sure they arent clogged up? That would be my test.

No I have not.
I guess that is next.

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just removed the crossover pipe and guess what? it was 98% clogged with carbon. I could hardly blow thru it with the check valve removed.
I scraped as much off as i could and tried to run a wire thru it but because of the bends i was unable to go all the way thru.
I tapped on it lightly with a hammer and it loosened up some more of the carbon but is still not completely clear.
I filled it with carb cleaner and will let it soak overnight.
Are there any other tricks to clean it out or should it be replaced?

Also, i felt the ports in the back of the head and the one on the left side feels like it is caked with carbon also.
I guess i will try to scrape out what i can, as you know it is in a awkward place.
Should i be concerned about carbon going into the head as i try to clean it?
What is the proper way to clean the port out short of removing the heads?
 

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Should be able to clean the crossover tube out pretty good.

As for the heads, you really dont want the carbon to get into the cylinder. That could be bad for the cylinder walls.

Glad you found the problem though.:bigthumbsup
 
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