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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys. im having an issue with my clutch. havent had my 91 lx for to long. it
has an after market clutch quadrant, and adjustable clutch cable (adjustable at the fork). there is no firewall adjuster on this car as well. it all started when my clutch fork began rattling against the bell housing. i figured the fork was resting on TOB. so i adjusted the cable slightly which brought the cable to the max adjustment.(nuts at the end of threaded rod). the fork still rattles, when i depress my clutch pedal it feels like the fork starts moving the TOB an inch from top of pedal travel but the clutch does not
disegage from flywheel till the bottom of pedal travel (it almost to the floor). i made sure that my fork was JUST touching my TOB and adjusted my cable to that position. i dont know much about this quadrant except its supposed to take out the play in the clutch when you shift. in my head i picture the clutch JUST breaking torque enough to shift, i fear this may be putting undue stress on my synchros. does anyone have any dvice on this matter. i would appriciate it. thank you in advance.
 

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your clutch fork could be broken at the pivet ball on the bell housing, the ball can wear thru the clutch fork. just something to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the advice. when i have the cable off the fork is VERY loose. is this symptom of this? does not having the fire wall adjuster matter?
 

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clutch grabs within 1/2" of floor

I am looking for a solution to the same problem.

When I set the cable so there is minimum free play between the release bearing and pressure plate fingers, the clutch grabs about 1/2" off the floor. A couple of times I ground the gears. I am also concerned if this could cause the syncronizers to wear in the transmission.

New RAM clutch, Ford racing fork, ford release bearing, zoom adjustable quadrant clutch cable kit and ford racing steel sleeve/hub which goes around the input shaft. All above parts are new.

Clutch cable adjustment is at the fork. I am not sure I want a firewall adjustment because there is no way to see if you have enough clearance between the release bearing and the pressure plate fingers unless you remove the clutch inspection cover. As you probably already know, if there is not sufficient clearance, you will burn out the bearing.

There is no sharp bends or other strain on the clutch cable.

I do not see what can be done to solve this since free pedal play is at the minimum.
Anyone have any suggestions?
 

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Do yourself a huge favor.. Get the firewall adjuster and get rid of that adjustable clutch cable for a maximum motorsports oem style cable. I just fought that same issue a couple of weeks ago. Your leg will thank you for it and I promise you will never think of running another setup again!
 

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Btw anything other than ford or maximum motorsports cables are well know to be very problematic. Get the firewall adjuster and adjust it to your preferred point of engagement. Trying to adjust it by judging freeplay has never worked for me. I adjust the pedal where I want it and have had zero problems.
 

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my bearings holding up just fine going on 2 years now as well. In our cars if you don't slightly preload the bearing its gonna be squeeking
 

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get a ford cable...i got an aftermarket one and it lasted 3 miles down the highway before the headers melted all the way through the cable sheath..you dont find out that they are plastic internals until it melts through :angry
 

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Mm's cable is the only aftermarket cable built to the same quality specs as the ford cable. They just make the center section a few inches longer for a smoother bend and better header clearances. The actual working length of the cable is still the same though. Quality piece and you won't hear anyone that has one bad mouth it.
 

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yeah i guess you get what you pay for...the ford cables are like 80 bucks, im not sure what the MM cables are, but if made to the same specs probably not 30 or 40 bucks.
 

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Thank you for the information.
About how far off the floor does the clutch start to grab?
How long has your release bearing lasted?
What brand and model release bearing are you using?
I may buy the Ford OEM racing cable kit next week.
 

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2 years and still going strong. Its a ford racing heavy duty throw out bearing, its the only way to go. The maximum motorsports cable is 79.99 on americanmuscle.com. Youll be fine with either one of those cables though. My pedal grabs right at about half way up. No grinding:bigthumbsup
 

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ive only had my car for 3 years and i just put a new clutch in it 2 months ago. Its a king cobra kit i got from CJponyparts.com. The clutch was shot and the throwout bearing was replaced with the last clutch and it lasted the life of the clutch but it started to chirp a bit near the end. If pushed to the floor, my clutch starts to grab after i release the pedal about 3 inches? or so
 

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Steeda quick release quadrant?

I like the idea of keeping the free play in the release bearing because my bearing is a good grade- National but not heavy duty.

Has anyone had experience with the Steeda quick release quadrant?

Steeda Quick Release Clutch Quadrant (82-04 Mustang) at AmericanMuscle - Free Shipping!

If you change the geometry of the quadrant, it can bring the release point up higher at the expense of more pedal effort. However I am not sure if this part will make my problem better or worse.

Does anyone have any experiece with this?
 

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ive got the quadrant in my car now. It has sort of a "snap" back type of feeling. Not so much like dumping the clutch, its just good for quick shifting. It would work real well with a short throw shifter, which is my next purchase
 

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i have a quick release quadrant with an adjustable cable and a fire wall adjuster from upr. have had it for two years no problems. also as said above adjust it where you like it. i prefer right off the top of the pedal less movement to shift fast. the quick release has less leverage so depending on the clutch it can be real hard as is mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So i;m a little confused now, is the issue with my rattling fork because my cable sucks? or the fork may be broken broken? or because i'm out of adjustment? i have not had i'm to remove my trans yet to check out th problem. thanks fo all your responses.
 

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more than likely you need to get the fire wall adjuster to give you that little bit more of adjustment. apperently the adjustable cables seem to be a little bit longer than stock. also i think the quick release quadrants might contribute to the problem. there are quadrants that have different spots for the cable end but i have never used these. just remember when ever you modify something it's not always going to work the way it says it will. always do a lot of research to see which parts people have had the best success with.
 
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