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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

Here's the deal...Just replaced the clutch on my 95. Removed all the items to do the job, including the h-pipe. Put in clutch and put everything back. Was very careful with the O2 sensors as well. Now, clutch feels great, but I'm getting a check engine light after about 5-10 minutes of running. I pulled the codes and get a 136, and 172. Lean codes. Felt fine, but now I've noticed that when I sometimes when I push the gas pedal, and seems likes it's REALLY struggling!! If I really mash it to the floor, it eventually KICKS IN and perfoms normally? What's up with that? Why would pushing the gas down to the floor free it up like that? Kinda strange...and what's up with the codes? Sound right?

Thanks for any help, really need it since now she's running like CRAP!!!

Thanks!
-Scott
 
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Well I'm not sure what's causing your problem, but flooring it will send it into open loop and the car stops looking at the O2 sensors and richens up.
 

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I know EEC is telling you lean, but if all other indications point to rich, you probably have an exhaust leak at one/both of the header to H pipe joints. Do you remember jostling/disconnecting any wire harnesses/connections? I'd go back and inspect these items.
Be sure to check the O2 sensor harness ground wire. I know on my '92, it bolts to the back of the driver side head. If it doesn't have a good connection, it will cause a check engine light, and mixture codes.
If everything looks ok, try clearing the codes, and then disconnecting the battery for twenty minutes or however long it takes to kill the Keep Alive Memory. Maybe that will do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea, I disconnected the battery cable to see if the codes would clear, but no go. I'm gonna check the cabling good at the O2 sensors, since that's the suspect. Amazing how bad the car will run until it warms up. Then it seems to run pretty decent. And, the check engine light doesn't come on until about 5 minutes after running the car, and that means actually moving. At idle, it will never come on. That make sense?

Thanks again all!!
-Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also, wouldn't the car run in an open loop until it heats up? If so, this seems like when I have a lot of my problems...when I first crank her up and drive, I get a LOT of hesitation, and sluggish behavior. After about 10 minutes, it seems to run better. Does this help diagnose things any better?

Thanks again!!
 

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I'd like to see if swapping in a known good ECT sensor clears it up.

Also, you can clear the codes by running KOEO, and disconnecting the tester/jumper wire before the last code is thrown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ECT sensor? Sorry for the ignorance....Also, a friend of mine has a Windstar van that was throwing a similar code, and the guys charged him $140 to clean the MAF sensor! What a RIP!! You think a dirty MAF could throw a lean code? Mine's been dirty as hell and never threw a code!!

Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's funny you say that, because as of now, there is no ECT sensor in the car, nor has there been one since early summer. What happened was she was running a little hot, so I put in a manual gauge to check the exact temp and make sure it wasn't the gauge. The wierd thing is that this just happened when I replaced the clutch. The check engine light and running bad. Also, I have noticed that the car runs like CRAP until it warms up, then it runs fine. Also, the check engine light will not come on until the car actually moves. I can leave it running in the drive for 20 minutes and no light, once I drive for a couple of minutes, it comes on.

thanks for the help!!!!!!
-Scott
 
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Did you reset the eec after the clutch job. If so that might be why it waited till then to act up. Either way you want to put the ect sensor back.
 

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jsd0909 said:
That's funny you say that, because as of now, there is no ECT sensor in the car, nor has there been one since early summer. What happened was she was running a little hot, so I put in a manual gauge to check the exact temp and make sure it wasn't the gauge. The wierd thing is that this just happened when I replaced the clutch. The check engine light and running bad. Also, I have noticed that the car runs like CRAP until it warms up, then it runs fine. Also, the check engine light will not come on until the car actually moves. I can leave it running in the drive for 20 minutes and no light, once I drive for a couple of minutes, it comes on.

thanks for the help!!!!!!
-Scott
The ECT reports to EEC. The factory gauge has its own sender.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I didn't reset the eec after the clutch job. Just drove down the road and the light came on. Does it make sense about it running fine once it warms up? I'm gonna pop the ECT sensor back in this weekend. Also, when I pulled the ECT sensor out, the gauge no longer works, so I guess it's the same sender. Or, I must have not pulled the ECT sensor. I also noticed that when the car is acting up before it warms, it's starting to pop a little as well. Seriously confused!!

Thanks!!
 

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The ECT is different from the water temperature sending unit. The water temperature sending unit drives the water temp guage. The ECT sends info to the computer telling it about the engine coolant temperature. The ECM then regulates fuel, timing, etc. based on input from the ECT. The ECT could go bad at any time. If in doubt, just replace it. An engine that is otherwise perfect will run like crap if the ECT is bad.
 
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