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Installing springs is rather easy, all you need is a coil spring compressor, a set of crescent's and or sockets, and depending if you're using camber plates or not you'll need a small grinder and a little patience. Read through all of these directions before you start on your install because having to backtrack is time consuming and tedious. For all intensive purposes, I wrote this up during an install on ******'s 2007 S197. This install guide also applies to 2005+ GT's and Cobra's.

You're going to want to do one side at a time with this install, starting at the rear-end. Jack the car up by the frame, not the differential and you won't need the spring compressor for the rear. Start by unbolting the shocks from the rear end and then supporting the side of the axle with a screw jack. Next, the anti-sway bar is unbolted above the rear end. It's then swung down and allowed to hang. At this point, the springs are practically ready to fall out of the car. The Eibach spring installs in place of the stock unit. Since it's shorter, it easily goes into position. If you're replacing your shocks too then temporarily secure the spring in place by raising the rear axle before beginning the shock removal. If you're replacing the shocks, inside the trunk and under the mat, the top of the rear shock is accessed and unbolted. At this point, the stock shock comes out. Bolt the sway bar back on, then the shocks. Repeat the procedure for the other side of the rear end.

Moving up front with the wheels off, the ABS sensor-wire clip is removed from the strut. Next, unbolt the anti-sway bar link from the front strut followed by the brake-line support bracket that also attaches to the strut. With the small pieces out of the way, the two 14mm bolts that hold the strut to the spindle are detached. Once the bolts are removed, the spindle and strut are separated. Under the hood, remove the four bolts on top of the strut tower. A helpful trick when doing this is removing three bolts and leaving the fourth one loosely in place so you can get a handle on the strut before it drops out. You can also have a helper hold it for you. With the four nuts and two 14mm bolts detached, the strut and spring assembly is removed all at once. It's considerably easier than having to deal with releasing coil-spring tension in the car, as must be done on Fox and SN-95 Mustangs. Using a strut coil-spring compressor, the front spring is compressed to release tension on the upper strut mount. With the spring secured, the nut holding the upper strut mount can be removed, and tension is safely released via the compressor. Other than the boot, the original upper strut mount is the only factory piece reused on the new strut and spring. It's set in place, then the strut nut is replaced while the stem is held with a wrench. The Eibach spring should be short enough to compress it with your hands to get the nut started. From there, simply tighten the nut securely to complete the assembly of the new strut and spring.

If you are worried about alignment and are going to install camber plates, whatever struts are used, in your case the Eibach's, the openings in the strut for the lower bolt attachments need to be elongated for the camber plates. This allows the struts to be moved as the plates and shims allow. Using a plate as a template, mark the area that needs to be elongated. Remove the camber plate, and use a Dremel or other similar tool to grind out the slot according to the marks applied in the previous step. Using a bolt to test the amount of space needed, you may determine that you don't need to open the entire area that was marked. The amount of material removed should allow 1-degree camber shims to be installed with no binding. Also note that when putting the assembly back together, the large-diameter end of the spring must face down with the pigtail against the spring stops in the upper and lower strut mounts. Re-installation of the completed strut and spring assembly is simply a reversal of its removal. Secure the strut in place up top by reinstalling the four bolts on top of it under the hood. Next, reattach the strut to the spindle.

Again, if you are using camber plates, using the hardware supplied with the camber plates, bolt the strut and spindle back together with the camber plates in place. I'd go with one-degree negative camber shims in the plates and the alignment specs usually come out perfectly with the shims and the mild drop the Eibach springs provide. It's still a good idea to put the car on an alignment rack afterwards to verify specs. Complete the installation by reattaching the brake and ABS sensor lines and sway-bar link to the spindle. If your not using camber plates, you're install should take 3 hours max for all 4 springs.

Extra tips that would make your life a lot easier.
1. Pick up a can of PB Blaster or some other kind of penetrating catalyst (any auto parts store) because I guarantee you're gonna have a bolt or 2 that will feel like they're cemented on and the PB will save you from exhaustion. All you need to do is direct a few good sprays onto the nut and threads of the bolt you're removing, give it about 60 seconds and it'll come loose, no problem.
2. I didn't clearly state this for the rear springs but remove only the rear tire of the side you're replacing and only jack up the same side. By jacking up one side at a time instead of both on jack stands, the differential will pull itself farther away from the wheel well you're working on, thus making it easier for the spring to come out. You don't need to do this on the front 2 because those wheels are independent, not connected by a differential.
 
G

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well you need to take the load off the spring.coil springs can be dangerous if not handeled in the right manor! Try jacking the front of the truck up until both wheels are hanging free the coil spring spacer will bolt right to the springs. Keep in mind a wheel alighnment may be needed after install. Always Be safe!! instuctions should be included.If you dont feel comfortable than take it to the local shop. They should't charge more than an hour labor.


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