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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1999 Mustang GT. Instead of buying a new CAI I decided on going cheap and keeping the stock CAI, but switching the air filter with a K&N. I also removed the air silencer that came stock. Would it be more beneficial to keep it removed or cut it so that I can still get some air flow from the side fender, but not have it over the air box. Also, would it help air flow if I just took off the whole air box instead and had the filter there by itself clipped on?


Thanks. Everything else is stock I believe.
 

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If i could go back i would have definitely kept my factory intake system with a drop-in K&N filter and removed the silencer and MAF screen. But i would have gotten rid of the factory inlet tubing and replaced it with an aftermarket tubing since thats the most restricting part of the intake for air flow. You won't want to remove the airbox bc thats the most beneficial aspect of the intake system in my opinion. You suck in cold air thru the fender like most aftermarket cai intakes except u never have to worry about sucking in water when its raining or exposing your air filter to road grime, dirt, etc...plus u never have to worry about sucking in hot air from the engine like most rai since the factory airbox completely covers the filter with the side tube exiting the fender. Would have saved a hell of a lot of money plus would have gotten the same performance gains as anyone else if not more.

I found this picture of someone's intake and this is exactly how i would do mine...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, I was actually thinking of taking off the airbox for more air flow.. But considering what you just said that wouldn't be a good idea. I dropped the filter in and that's about it. Where could I find an aftermarket house like such and also- What's the benefit of taking out the MAF screen?

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I've taken the MAF screen out of every Stang I've owned, if your filter can't trap the dirt you have a problem, haha!
And Steve04 actually when the car is in motion the IAT temps are quite similar with a straight shot open air filter and a closed box, I've done the datalogging and was surprised myself but others told me the same thing and they were right!
 

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The differences with an exposed air intake open to the hood temps and the types that pull cold air from inside the fender are subtle. One involves the fact that the inner fender area is a "high pressure" zone for our cars - you get a slight ram air effect there, similar to what is seen from cowl induction in some cars.

The cooler temps from pulling the air from the fender vs under the hood have more to do with slightly improving gas mileage in hot, stop and go conditions than any big gains in power output.

Just as with any of these types of mods, there are some advantages to be had from removing restrictions WHEN the engine is being affected by the restrictions - ie, the gains will be modest-to-zero if your particular setup is not being compromised by the reduced flow. This rule of thumb pertains to many modifications, including exhaust components and running larger TBs, MAF's, fuel injectors and so forth. If the engine does not NEED additional flow, supplying it will gain little, and may even hurt performance if subtle tuning issues are not addressed.

I know this is complicated, but the short answer is that well-designed CAI systems WILL give modest gains which are VERY similar to those to be had by upgrading the air filter - removing the silencer - and replacing the crennelated plastic intake hose with something with smoother walls.

One comment: If a positive displacement supercharger is planned in the future, RETAIN your old parts whichever way you go - most of them use the OE air box and so forth as part of their parts list.
 

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I recently switched from my Densecharger CAI to the Straight shot JLT RAI with open filter. At the present time it's SO Hot in South Florida that I don't really stomp on my car to redline, when I do the coolant temp goes through the roof so I try to just drive normally. But I do feel the JLT pulls harder and the idle is smoother than the double 90 degree bend fender mount Dense.
 

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The time when your underhood temps will be the highest is when sitting, in stop and go traffic, or when moving real slow. I think that opening up the flow helps. I had a drop in K&N with the silencer on, then removed the silencer and felt it ran a little better. I put the silencer back on and before long removed it again because I could feel the difference. Then I got a Gen 1 K&N FIPK (not the current one with the shield on one side) and I feel that also helped in the upper rpm range. It just feels like it pulls harder. I have thought of trying to make a little shield for the one side but haven't done it yet. BTW, I got the filter kit very cheap (way cheaper than a drop in filter) and that's why I got it. I have also thought of getting a new high flow inlet tube. Just haven't decided on which one yet.
 

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I have heard good and bad things about taking the MAF screen off. What do you guys think I was going to do the drop in K&N also and i already removed the silencer but i don't know about taking the screen off it doesn't seem to be a real restriction.:headscratch:
 

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who told you taking it off was detrimental? Give him a backhander for me, haha!:gringreen If anything it creates turbulence!
 

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Im new to the board and can use some input. I have an 09 GT. I just placed a Roush CAI without the California restrictor. It started fine, went to normal idle and after 10 seconds or so, idle droped and engine labored and stalled. I restarted and same thing happened. I put the restrictor in and it ran great... any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sounds like the restriction actually plays a role in the newer models. On the older models aka 99 that I have, the screen is just there to block out foreign objects that shouldn't be in there. With an aftermarket CAI you don't really need to take anything else off. As far as the idling and stalling I'm not too sure. :/ Sorry bro.
 

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I believe on the newer Mustangs that the computer has to be recalibrated if making any sort of major mod or else the computer puts the car into limp mode or shuts it down. You could probably have it retuned/reset to run without the restrictor, but not sure what's involved or what the cost would be.
 
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