Sounds good, cams and lifters is on my list. I have never done cams in a over head cam motor though. Any problems with the install?
CompCam's XE270AH on my 2V
Just here to help whoever has any questions on the cam swap with these cams on a 2V 4.6 with the Romeo block. I read just about everywhere that it would result in PTV (Piston To Valve) contact. Well it didn't. I changed my springs with Comp's recommended beehive valve springs and their retainers. The only problem were the stock cam bolts are too small for the new CompCams. I ran to Autozone and picked some up. In order to make this job 10000x easier, you need to buy the valve compressor made for this 2V engine. I did an ebay search and found one made for our engines specifically and it cost around $100. But when I say it is worth it, IT IS WORTH IT 100%. Just a little background on me and to show you that you don't have to take it anywhere to get it done, I'm 20 years old and did it in a garage with your basic tools. I did not degree them because honestly, I don't know how to. Instead, I just used the stock timing marks and marked them with a marker. They worked perfectly. To keep the valves in place during the spring change I kept the piston I was working on at TDC (Top Dead Center). If you have any questions then please ask.
Here is a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0lOxLOKp9M
Here is a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0lOxLOKp9M
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Nice! Cams are on my list but won't be until after long tubes and possibly a rebuild...before and after dyno numbers? Dyno tune?
I was changing one of the springs and I dropped a keeper. I looked for hours before finally giving up. You can't buy them anywhere so I went to the nearest Pull-A-Part and found a 4.6 Expedition. The keepers were exactly the same. Other than that, just make sure you torque everything down to spec and take your time putting everything back together.Sounds good, cams and lifters is on my list. I have never done cams in a over head cam motor though. Any problems with the install?
Nice! Cams are on my list but won't be until after long tubes and possibly a rebuild...before and after dyno numbers? Dyno tune?
No dyno tune or numbers. I called Bama and they gave me a tune but it is extremely terrible. They have sent me so many tunes and none of them are getting me anywhere. It runs better with the pre-canned tunes on the tuner versus their "custom" tunes. I have data logged for them and now they want me to do it again. If I can't find a good tune then I'm going to take it to the local shop called Dynospeed, but they want $500 before they put my car on their dyno and give me three of their tunes.
Just here to help whoever has any questions on the cam swap with these cams on a 2V 4.6 with the Romeo block. I read just about everywhere that it would result in PTV (Piston To Valve) contact. Well it didn't. I changed my springs with Comp's recommended beehive valve springs and their retainers. The only problem were the stock cam bolts are too small for the new CompCams. I ran to Autozone and picked some up. In order to make this job 10000x easier, you need to buy the valve compressor made for this 2V engine. I did an ebay search and found one made for our engines specifically and it cost around $100. But when I say it is worth it, IT IS WORTH IT 100%. Just a little background on me and to show you that you don't have to take it anywhere to get it done, I'm 20 years old and did it in a garage with your basic tools. I did not degree them because honestly, I don't know how to. Instead, I just used the stock timing marks and marked them with a marker. They worked perfectly. To keep the valves in place during the spring change I kept the piston I was working on at TDC (Top Dead Center). If you have any questions then please ask.
Here is a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0lOxLOKp9M
She looks and sounds great!
Glad you are enjoying the cams, I ran these on my first 2v and loved them also.
Keep up the good work!
- Will
She looks and sounds great!
Glad you are enjoying the cams, I ran these on my first 2v and loved them also.
Keep up the good work!
- Will
Thank you! Did you ever have any problems with it cutting off when you come to a stop? Mine is usually okay but every once in a while the car will just die. When it gets really hot it gets worse.
Thank you! Did you ever have any problems with it cutting off when you come to a stop? Mine is usually okay but every once in a while the car will just die. When it gets really hot it gets worse.
Hey,
I did not!
Did you have the car tuned after the cam install?
I definitely noticed a nice dip in RPM's a few times but I never had it cut out.
- Will
Remote tuning is what they call it. Once you do a power adder or get into the engine you're better off going to a reputable tuner and getting it on the dyno. Following that doing a drive on the street and the tuner correcting/adjusting anything that needs to be corrected/adjusted. There is some tuners out there that are fairly good at remote tuning. It's just more complicated the further you get from stock. I don't know if they still state it but BAMA used to state that power adders and internal mods such as cams, heads, and such are better off dyno tuned...if I'm not mistaken.
How much did the cams and everything needed cost? Where did you buy them from? I want to do this in the near future.
How much did the cams and everything needed cost? Where did you buy them from? I want to do this in the near future.
Well you'll need the CompCam's which usually run around $600 on AmericanMuscle. I got them a bit cheaper because I have a friend who works at CompCams. Then you'll need their Beehive springs along with the retainers. All from CompCams. All available through AmericanMuscle. Plus the two bigger cam bolts that Autozone sells for like $5 a piece. I don't know the exact size but I will get back and update you. Then the Spring compressor I bought is easily googled and cost me around $100. YOU WILL NEED IT. It will save you soooo much time. All together with my friend's discount from CompCams I paid around $500 which I was crazy happy about. If you buy everything from AmericanMuscle you might be looking at around $1,000. Still worth it 100%
Remote tuning is what they call it. Once you do a power adder or get into the engine you're better off going to a reputable tuner and getting it on the dyno. Following that doing a drive on the street and the tuner correcting/adjusting anything that needs to be corrected/adjusted. There is some tuners out there that are fairly good at remote tuning. It's just more complicated the further you get from stock. I don't know if they still state it but BAMA used to state that power adders and internal mods such as cams, heads, and such are better off dyno tuned...if I'm not mistaken.
I thought the same thing until I emailed them asking them if they had a tune for my exact cam and they said yes. So I went with theirs and have datalogged my vehicle once and had them send me a tune that was terrible. So I called and told them what I wanted and they sent me a tune that really helped out but after 100 miles the tune actually got worse. So I told them about that and now they want me to data log again.
It's not impossible for a good tuner to remote tune. However it can and normally does take more time to get it dialed in.I thought the same thing until I emailed them asking them if they had a tune for my exact cam and they said yes. So I went with theirs and have datalogged my vehicle once and had them send me a tune that was terrible. So I called and told them what I wanted and they sent me a tune that really helped out but after 100 miles the tune actually got worse. So I told them about that and now they want me to data log again.
I'm running a high compression 2V (roughly 12:1), stage 3 PI heads from MHS, and NA cams. I sent my info to my tuner. He got me a start up tune on a xcal 3 then I took the car to him. He got it on the dyno did some pulls adjusted the tune. Then we went for a ride and did normal street driving. He adjusted timing, spark, and whatever else. That is the easiest way because the car is there and he is with it monitoring everything at the time.
I have never went the remote tune route. To my knowledge tho the easiest way to remote tune is to rent a dyno if you can't find a reputable tuner. As well as having the person tuning available at the time to look at the data logs and adjust the tune. That way you aren't making a pull then waiting on someone to review the data log.
On my setup I wouldn't be to crazy about remote tuning. I'm running 93 octane and he had to pull a good bit of timing cause it was pinging like a mofo. It took a good 3-4 hours on the dyno. Maybe a 30 minute drive on the street to make final adjustments.
Good luck man I hope you get it smoothed out!
It's not impossible for a good tuner to remote tune. However it can and normally does take more time to get it dialed in.
I'm running a high compression 2V (roughly 12:1), stage 3 PI heads from MHS, and NA cams. I sent my info to my tuner. He got me a start up tune on a xcal 3 then I took the car to him. He got it on the dyno did some pulls adjusted the tune. Then we went for a ride and did normal street driving. He adjusted timing, spark, and whatever else. That is the easiest way because the car is there and he is with it monitoring everything at the time.
I have never went the remote tune route. To my knowledge tho the easiest way to remote tune is to rent a dyno if you can't find a reputable tuner. As well as having the person tuning available at the time to look at the data logs and adjust the tune. That way you aren't making a pull then waiting on someone to review the data log.
On my setup I wouldn't be to crazy about remote tuning. I'm running 93 octane and he had to pull a good bit of timing cause it was pinging like a mofo. It took a good 3-4 hours on the dyno. Maybe a 30 minute drive on the street to make final adjustments.
Good luck man I hope you get it smoothed out!
I appreciate it. Once I stop being cheap I will go to the local Dyno business. But for now I'm have trouble building a rear end for my car. I need to stop getting myself into crap. Haha, dang mustang.
Thanks for the information!Well you'll need the CompCam's which usually run around $600 on AmericanMuscle. I got them a bit cheaper because I have a friend who works at CompCams. Then you'll need their Beehive springs along with the retainers. All from CompCams. All available through AmericanMuscle. Plus the two bigger cam bolts that Autozone sells for like $5 a piece. I don't know the exact size but I will get back and update you. Then the Spring compressor I bought is easily googled and cost me around $100. YOU WILL NEED IT. It will save you soooo much time. All together with my friend's discount from CompCams I paid around $500 which I was crazy happy about. If you buy everything from AmericanMuscle you might be looking at around $1,000. Still worth it 100%
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Ford Mustang Forum
A forum community dedicated to Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, modifications, reviews, engine swaps, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Top Contributors this Month
View All
Cobrajet67
304 Replies
Forddenial
170 Replies
my89foxbody
96 Replies
Recommended Communities
Join now to ask and comment!
