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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I recently bought a 2008 Roush Trak Pak and I bring it out to the track as often as I can. But I'm going through rear pads like crazy! After the first two times I went to the track, I burned through the back set so fast I ended up putting a nice groove in the rotors and had to replace them.


Since then, I'm using Hawk Pads which are a lot better (freakin loud on the street though!) but I would like to upgrade the rears to a larger rotor and caliper. It's pretty hard finding big brake kits for S-197's. I've only found a rear kit from AP racing. Does anyone know of other brake kits??

What do they run in the FR500C's? I have six piston Brembo's in the front with brake ducts, and stock calipers in the rear with performance pads and slotted rotors.
 

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Saleen , Steeda , Bear,willwood are just a few that come to mind.They are on Ebay all the time.
 

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All the turn key Race cars from motorsport use the stock Gt rear brakes. They show a different part number in the catalog for pads. I use Hawk HP+ on mine full time. Change the fronts to DTC70 on the Brembo 4 piston system when I go to the track.
Did the track pack change the brake bias on your car? It seems your rear brakes might have a greater bias, or your fronts not enough. Also do you turn off the traction control. It will constantly apply rear brake when your ripping on a track. GA
 

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Take Garyalpusa's advice and check the bias. Per RPP the Trak Pak should have these type of brake pads and should be holding up better than you've mentioned.
HAWK DTC 70 Front and HT 10 Rear Racing Brake Pads (PROVIDED WITH VEHICLE - NOT INSTALLED)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not sure about the brake bias, I'll have to contact Roush--I'm assuming they didn't. Good call about the traction control!! Last track day it was raining for the first hour so I kept it on, and now that I think about I don't remember turning it off when it cleared up for the rest of the day. Man, that sucks! Expensive mistake!

I'm still going to get those bigger brakes, It's kind of scary coming into 60mph corner going 140 and your brakes start fading.

Any ideas on reducing the weight on these cars?
 

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I'm not sure about the brake bias, I'll have to contact Roush--I'm assuming they didn't. Good call about the traction control!! Last track day it was raining for the first hour so I kept it on, and now that I think about I don't remember turning it off when it cleared up for the rest of the day. Man, that sucks! Expensive mistake!

I'm still going to get those bigger brakes, It's kind of scary coming into 60mph corner going 140 and your brakes start fading.

Any ideas on reducing the weight on these cars?
Its very expensive to reduce the weight with these cars unless you want to hack away at a brand new car.

You can:
pick-up a 1-piece driveshaft
K-member
change out to light racing seats
delete the rear seats (very minimal weight here though)
Change to lighter rims
remove spare tire and jack
and a few other parts that you can replace your OEM stuff with but you'll only save a few lbs and spend big $$$$
 

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I'm not sure about the brake bias, I'll have to contact Roush--I'm assuming they didn't. Good call about the traction control!! Last track day it was raining for the first hour so I kept it on, and now that I think about I don't remember turning it off when it cleared up for the rest of the day. Man, that sucks! Expensive mistake!

I'm still going to get those bigger brakes, It's kind of scary coming into 60mph corner going 140 and your brakes start fading.

Any ideas on reducing the weight on these cars?

Ahh, yea the ole TC button...that'll do it alright.
You've already got some light rims in the forged vs. cast. Aluminum driveshaft you'll drop almost 25-30 lbs from stock. Be sure when you start reducing weight, you don't upset your weight distribution to much. I think our cars are stock at 52.5% front 47.5% rear.
 

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I know what you mean about trying to stop 3600lbs from 130+. I get paranoid about that also. I dont totally change the fluid each event but I do drain a bit out of the calipers and top off. The fluid in the calipers from the last event saw the highest temps so I figure its good to get it out of there. Your six piston brembos provide more than enough braking. You need to find out why your rears are doing what they are doing. I have heard of bad valves that screw up the pressure to each corner. The difinitive way to check is to get a high pressure gauge and have someone press on the brakes. You can see what each corner is making. GA
 
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