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Coolant temps???

2K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  spdjnky_42 
#1 ·
Runing as everyday driver to work. Replaced thermostat, new oem radiator and cap. Coolant is topped off properly. What temps should i be running at in 90 plus degree weather in florida. Looks on the guage to be in 250's is this bad?
 
#16 ·
My car is also running a little warm and my upper hose is hot. Also I can spin the fan, which somebody in an earlier post says would mean a bad clutch fan. I thought the fan always spun when the car was turned off, whether hot or cold.
 
#6 ·
With the car cool, open the radiator cap and start the car. Allow it to warm to operating temp and let the coolant level rise. When the car is at normal operating temp and/or the coolant stop rising, replace the cap and shut off the car.

Do you have the proper antifreeze/water mix? Is the fan coming coming on?


Also, for daily driving in this car - when you stop for extended periods, roll down the windows and turn the heat on full blast. This will help cool the car until you figure out the issue.
 
#8 ·
Yeah when you burp the car it is best to have the front of the car jacked up a little but if you can do what club said and open the cap and turn the car on. Refill the radiator when the coolant goes down. Do this a few times till it doesn't go down anymore. Also how do you know your fan clutch is good?
 
#9 ·
Here is what you want to do. Since you live in Florida. Buy a 180 degree thermostat and gasket at the local Autoparts store. Replace the thermostat and gasket. Then start your car and turn your heater on. Then let it run for a few minutes (what your doing is burping the system) then have a couple of gallons of distilled water ready to add to the radiator. Just let it run and just keep adding the water. When your radiator is full put the cap on and fill your coolant reservoir.
 
#10 ·
How about for a supercharhed car...

I saw temps as high as 228 but this was at FULL throttle balls.out after a 1 hour drive.....

After that it seems to hover at 203... this is in miami so similar conditions to the OP.... THE IAT is pretty much at ambient (between 85-90)
 
#13 ·
Your car should never be that hot even in Miami.

Ask me how I know about the HEAT!!!!!
 
#15 · (Edited)
Had similar situation...

You want to know how to get rid of the air bubbles, here is a tip.

Have the front of the car and radiator higher than the heater by using ramps or parking it on a steep hill. This will have the air being forced to the top spot in the cooling system which is the rad now. Make sure that you have the rad cap side slightly higher as the rest of the rad as well. This will have you getting rid more of the air.

1.) Turn the heat to full and the directional controls to panel or floor. Turn the fan to medium speed.

2.) With a cold engine only, remove the rad cap, start the engine and hold the engine revs at 1500-2000rpms until the engine warms up and the thermostat opens. You will see the coolant quickly drop when the thermostat opens. This is the time to start adding your 50/50 mix. Add until it is right up to the top and you will see the air bubbles coming up as the coolant displaces the air in the heater core. Continue this until no more air bubbles are coming out. Don't worry if small amounts of coolant is coming out of the rad fill neck, you want that.

When no more air bubbles are being seen or the coolant level is not dropping anymore, install a new Stant rad cap and drop the engine back down to idle.

Now, be patient, there might be a little more air in the system for another day or two right after doing this, take the car for a good 30 min run to make sure the coolant is getting everywhere it should be.

Since I did this, no more overheating.
 
#18 ·
Thanks, that is exactly what happened, it didn't spin freely at all. What does the hot hose tell me? I thought that meant water was getting through, but I also noticed the hose is soft, so I don't think fluid is flowing through very well.
 
#19 ·
Well if the hose was hard that means there is a blockage somewhere.

The fan clutch should be able to spin when the car is cold. It will feel like it is filled with mush but still be able to be spun by hand. Also there should be no play at all cause if there is play the fan clutch is bad.

Now go for a ride and get the car up to temp. Go back and turn the car off after driving it around and try to spin the fan. The fan should be stiff and unable to spin.
 
#20 ·
Well if the hose was hard that means there is a blockage somewhere.

The fan clutch should be able to spin when the car is cold. It will feel like it is filled with mush but still be able to be spun by hand. Also there should be no play at all cause if there is play the fan clutch is bad.

Now go for a ride and get the car up to temp. Go back and turn the car off after driving it around and try to spin the fan. The fan should be stiff and unable to spin.
I did this with the car up to temp and I was able to spin it. With the car up to temp it felt like mush. I spun it and it turned not quite once around. However, what you are saying is it shouldn't turn at all, which means my fan clutch is bad. I need to replace the fan blades anyway so when I do that I will also replace the clutch.
 
#22 ·
That is correct when your car gets up to temp the fan clutch should be fully engaged and you should not be able to move it by hand. Inside there is a viscous or "fluid" couplings that reacts with the heat so when its cooler it is more fluid but when it gets hot it's more solid than liquid.

Make sure your fan is in good condition, that the fan shroud is also in good condition and that little air dam on the front bumper is also there.
 
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