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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the middle of replacing my radiator ('66 with a 289).
I'd like to put in a staggered 3 or 4 core radiator but it seems like
all those out there have the outlet on the left side.
My 289 water pump has it's inlet on the left. What to do.....

Does anyone sell a preformed hose that will fit or can I put
a 302 water pump (inlet on the right) on my stock 289.

Any suggestions appreciated.
 

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There are 3 different water pumps used on the early 389/302's.
1. An aluminum pump that uses NO backing plate and a specific timing cover to match(should be only '64 '65 or earlier).

2. Cast iron unit with the inlet on the passenger side( about '66 to '68 or '69).

3. Cast iron with a drivers side inlet after number 2.

I would think you are fine to install number 3 in place of number 2, as a matter of fact I have!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Most parts catalog list the LH inlet pump as an option for '69 - '73 302 motors. Is this what you used?
Just not sure if it will fit my '66 289 timing cover.

I haven't been able to find a listing for a LH inlet pump for a '65-'66 motor.
They're all RH inlets. Do you remember where you bought yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
lads_john said:
I'm in the middle of replacing my radiator ('66 with a 289).
I'd like to put in a staggered 3 or 4 core radiator but it seems like
all those out there have the outlet on the left side.
My 289 water pump has it's inlet on the left. What to do.....

Does anyone sell a preformed hose that will fit or can I put
a 302 water pump (inlet on the right) on my stock 289.

Any suggestions appreciated.
Correction. That should read - my current water pump has a RH inlet. :tongue
 

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lads_john said:
Thanks. Most parts catalog list the LH inlet pump as an option for '69 - '73 302 motors. Is this what you used?
Just not sure if it will fit my '66 289 timing cover.

I haven't been able to find a listing for a LH inlet pump for a '65-'66 motor.
They're all RH inlets. Do you remember where you bought yours?
You will not find a listing for a '65-'66 289 with a LH inlet, they only used the RH inlet, however the water pump bolts on and all passages match up in the timing cover with the LH inlet '69-'73 version. The water pump I used was listed for a 1972 Torino with a 302, it also fit many other applications. :winks
 

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Here is what another Mustanger had to say about the hoses in his 66

As far as the hose, try one from an '85 Linc. TownCar with a 5.0. That works great on my '66 with the same pump and cross flow set up on my stock rad. Had to trim it for length but fits the curves real good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So, I replaced the water pump and radiator and put a 5-blade
fan in there for good measure. Temp guage still shows I'm
overheating (letting the car idle and warm up).
I'm tempted to throw a new sending unit in there and hope that's it.

Any ideas on how to troubleshoot further? I suppose checking the actual
coolant temperature with an IR thermometer might be a start?
 

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The sending unit is cheap, so I would replaceit. DO NOT put teflon tape on the threads, it will prevent it from grounding properly and give a false reading. Use a gasket sealer or paste teflon sealer. If you don't have a fan shroud that can cause heat up at idle.
 

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I am female and not a mechanic, but I am the family parts runner and service record keeper. Our 65 289 auto. had been in a garage 10 years before we bought her. She had not been driven. The coolant had turned to something like concrete everywhere coolant travels. It required chipping away by hand and several flushes. We ended up putting on a third new radiator due to all the trash slowly breaking up. We replaced water pump and sending unit. We installed a fan shroud.Car still overheated! Cleaning carb. really helped overheating problem get better, and we added a tranny cooler. No more overheating! The guys thought the carb. cleaning was a major factor in solving our problem.BTW car has A/C. Because car sat so long we had to have tranny rebuilt, some thought tranny not shifting properly might be cause of overheating, but that wasn't the case for us. It was after rebuild that they cleaned carb. and added tr.cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the feedback. This car had been a daily driver before I bought
it (almost a year ago). Before replacing the rad; I ran the car with the radiator cap removed during warm up and noted that the coolant was 'surging' through the radiator. Unsure of the cause I assumed maybe there was a problem with the water pump (cavitation etc.).

As I was putting in the new rad and pump I installed a clear gano filter
on the top hose. Now when I run the car there seem to be spurts of
coolant flowing through the top radiator hose. (It's kind of difficult
to see the flow since the coolant is all new (and clean). It's not as if there's not enough coolant in there - the top hose is constantly full - but surging).
I've been trying to figure out what's causing this 'surging' and if it's
normal. I also see small bubbles in the coolant through the filter window.

Possibly head gasket(s)?
I know they're not completely cracked as I had a local mechanic run a test to detect carbon monoxide in the coolant. The test came back negative but a second test showed they were beginning to go. I'd never heard of this second test and kind of dismissed it. Would crackING head gaskets caused this much of an overtemp condition?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So, I just replaced the sending unit. No real difference. I did observe that
the thermostat doesn't open until after the guage starts to creep up to about 3/4 of the way. Once the thermostat is open the needle creeps down a little but is still over 1/2 way.(I'm not unreasonable to assume the needle should read 1/2 way or less with a brand new 3-core rad...am I?).

So, I either have a faulty thermostat (already replaced it when I did
the radiator) or a faulty guage.
Could anybody out there stick a voltmeter on their sending unit and
give me the resistance reading coming off the sending unit
(On start up - and again once once it reaches operating temperature).
It's a 2barrel stock 289.

I can't find any ranges in the shop manual. I can't think of
another way to test the reading coming from the guage.

Thanks!
 

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Have you check the temp of the water to see if it is an overheating problem of just an incorrect gauge reading? Before I got my cluster back from restoration I purchased a cheap mechanical water temp gauge from my local auto parts store to check the cooling performance of newly rebuilt 289. I didn’t see if you posted what deg thermostat you are running but should be a 160deg.
 
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