[Jessawayne29]

Hi y'all. I'm new to this site and Mustangs well, and Fords to be honest. Anywho, I recently purchased a 2002 v6. The car had been sitting for awhile but had no issues when it was parked. When I was first looking at it to decide if I wanted to buy it there was a crank, no start issue. Tried to hear the fuel pump but could not. Checked button in the trunk and it was good. I buy the car anyway and went ahead and changed the fuel pump. Now I still have the crank, no start issue but I can hear the fuel pump. Also my key had stuck in the ignition for a day or two. Nothing I tried would get it out and it wouldn't turn back to accessory. Next day tried it again and it came right out. My anti-theft light stays on at all times. It doesn't flash it, doesn't go off when the key is in the ignition, it literally stays on all the time. Don't know if this matters or not but I need to replace the battery in my key fob. But when the key is in the ignition the radio, lights and everything work except the door doesn't ding when open. I know some of these things probably have nothing to do with the others, I just wanted to give as many details as I know. Can anyone help me???

 

[crjackson]

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[Cobrajet67]

Hi y'all. I'm new to this site and Mustangs well, and Fords to be honest. Anywho, I recently purchased a 2002 v6. The car had been sitting for awhile but had no issues when it was parked. When I was first looking at it to decide if I wanted to buy it there was a crank, no start issue. Tried to hear the fuel pump but could not. Checked button in the trunk and it was good. I buy the car anyway and went ahead and changed the fuel pump. Now I still have the crank, no start issue but I can hear the fuel pump. Also my key had stuck in the ignition for a day or two. Nothing I tried would get it out and it wouldn't turn back to accessory. Next day tried it again and it came right out. My anti-theft light stays on at all times. It doesn't flash it, doesn't go off when the key is in the ignition, it literally stays on all the time. Don't know if this matters or not but I need to replace the battery in my key fob. But when the key is in the ignition the radio, lights and everything work except the door doesn't ding when open. I know some of these things probably have nothing to do with the others, I just wanted to give as many details as I know. Can anyone help me???

Is this an auto or manual?
If it sat for a long time then the fuel filter and/or injectors may be clogged. If you spray some carb cleaner in the air intake and crank it over and it starts for a second or two then you know that it's a fuel issue. Since your anti-theft light is on your PATS(passive anti-theft system) may be cutting fuel injector ground pulse to the injectors. In general, when the anti-theft light stays on continuously solid it usually means that there's a fault in the PATS module(in the instrument cluster in this model/year 1999-04) and there's a code registered in the PCM. Those codes will start with a B and will be considered "body" codes. Get a scanner that can read body codes and post the code or codes that you get here.
Talked about here: (197) 2002 GT - Theft light on continuously but car runs | Ford Mustang Forum (allfordmustangs.com)
The other potential here is that the PATS module requires a certain amount of voltage at startup and if it doesn't get it then it'll either store a code and keep the light on or it'll assume the system has been tampered with and to prevent potential theft it'll shut down the starting system and/or it'll shut down the fuel injector pulse depending on the year.
Your battery should be checked to make sure that it holds a good charge after sitting for many hours. It should have no less than 12.5v. If there's an internal short or dead cell in the battery then it'll result in less voltage for the vehicle's modules. You should also check all your grounds as well. Loosen the bolts that fasten them and retighten them.
To understand it you have a basic fuel or ignition problem you need to put a noid light or test light on a fuel injector connector to see if it pulses when you crank it over. If it doesn't pulse then your PCM isn't sending any ground signal to the injectors. The PCM fires the injectors by completing the ground circuit to each one. There should always be constant 12v power to them when the ignition is in the on position. When the engine is cranking over or running the PCM switches the individual grounds on for a split second to fire each injector.
The key getting stuck in the ignition may be from the shifter lockout switch under the shifter if this is an automatic. It could also perhaps be from a bad brake light switch if you have no brake lights. The ignition cylinder may need some lock cylinder lube sprayed in it or the ignition switch in the column could also be a problem.
This is talked about here: (197) 2000 GT automatic parking issue | Ford Mustang Forum (allfordmustangs.com)
The battery in the key fob is only there to lock/unlock the doors. It has nothing to do with the ignition. The PATS transceiver ring energizes the coil in the key when it's put into or near the ignition cylinder so the key requires no power in it to start the car.
First thing to do is buy or borrow a good capable scanner to read body codes. I would also buy a test light in order to do the fuel injector electrical test. A multimeter is needed as well to test your system voltage.

 

[Jessawayne29]

Is this an auto or manual?
If it sat for a long time then the fuel filter and/or injectors may be clogged. If you spray some carb cleaner in the air intake and crank it over and it starts for a second or two then you know that it's a fuel issue. Since your anti-theft light is on your PATS(passive anti-theft system) may be cutting fuel injector ground pulse to the injectors. In general, when the anti-theft light stays on continuously solid it usually means that there's a fault in the PATS module(in the instrument cluster in this model/year 1999-04) and there's a code registered in the PCM. Those codes will start with a B and will be considered "body" codes. Get a scanner that can read body codes and post the code or codes that you get here.
Talked about here: (197) 2002 GT - Theft light on continuously but car runs | Ford Mustang Forum (allfordmustangs.com)
The other potential here is that the PATS module requires a certain amount of voltage at startup and if it doesn't get it then it'll either store a code and keep the light on or it'll assume the system has been tampered with and to prevent potential theft it'll shut down the starting system and/or it'll shut down the fuel injector pulse depending on the year.
Your battery should be checked to make sure that it holds a good charge after sitting for many hours. It should have no less than 12.5v. If there's an internal short or dead cell in the battery then it'll result in less voltage for the vehicle's modules. You should also check all your grounds as well. Loosen the bolts that fasten them and retighten them.
To understand it you have a basic fuel or ignition problem you need to put a noid light or test light on a fuel injector connector to see if it pulses when you crank it over. If it doesn't pulse then your PCM isn't sending any ground signal to the injectors. The PCM fires the injectors by completing the ground circuit to each one. There should always be constant 12v power to them when the ignition is in the on position. When the engine is cranking over or running the PCM switches the individual grounds on for a split second to fire each injector.
The key getting stuck in the ignition may be from the shifter lockout switch under the shifter if this is an automatic. It could also perhaps be from a bad brake light switch if you have no brake lights. The ignition cylinder may need some lock cylinder lube sprayed in it or the ignition switch in the column could also be a problem.
This is talked about here: (197) 2000 GT automatic parking issue | Ford Mustang Forum (allfordmustangs.com)
The battery in the key fob is only there to lock/unlock the doors. It has nothing to do with the ignition. The PATS transceiver ring energizes the coil in the key when it's put into or near the ignition cylinder so the key requires no power in it to start the car.
First thing to do is buy or borrow a good capable scanner to read body codes. I would also buy a test light in order to do the fuel injector electrical test. A multimeter is needed as well to test your system voltage.

Thanks for that info. I need all the help I can get. It's an automatic. So I finally got it to start yesterday. Only this time it's started and only ran for about 15 seconds and then went dead. Every time I get it to start that's what it does.

 

[Jessawayne29]

Thanks for that info. I need all the help I can get. It's an automatic. So I finally got it to start yesterday. Only this time it's started and only ran for about 15 seconds and then went dead. Every time I get it to start that's what it does.

Still can not get this car going. Here's where it's at now.. anti-theft light is back to normal acting as it should. But, car is still doing the same thing, cranks, starts, runs for 10 seconds or so. We put a scanner on it and it said there were no codes found. But at the same time it had trouble connecting with the car at first. Then it ran some things but said it could not communicate with the car on others. I'm at a complete loss and about ready to send it on a long drive off a short bridge. I'm joking. Kinda. Can anyone help?[/QUOTE]

 

[Cobrajet67]

How quickly does it start after you turn the key to start cranking(how many cranks before it starts)?
How does it run for those 10 seconds?
Does it sputter out or just die suddenly?
Does it start right back up again?
Will it stay running if you press on the accelerator a little bit?
How old is the battery and have you tested it? It should have at least 12.5v.
Have you brought the alternator to an auto parts store to have them check it for proper voltage output? It should put out 13.5-14.5v under a load(headlights and blower motor on).
What have you tested or done so far? Be specific.
Though the fuel pump may be initially priming it may not run after the car is started. You should check the fuel pressure with a scanner that can read live data to tell you how much psi the system has after it's stalled out. It should have about 40psi. The fuel pressure sensor(located on the fuel rail) and fuel pump relay are common causes if this is happening as can be the FPDM(fuel pump driver module). A clogged fuel filter is also possible. Water in the gas if it's been siting for a long time can be an issue. Maybe dump a bottle of dry gas in the tank and a gallon of fresh gas.
You need to verify that you have good system voltage otherwise you will get all sorts of electrical issues. Bad grounds are a very common problem.
The PCM relay could be the problem since there's communication issues. The relay for that is integrated into the CCRM(constant control relay module). It's a common source of electrical problems for this generation of Mustang. It contains the PCM relay, FPDM relay, cooling fan relay , and A/C clutch relay. It can be found on passenger side inner fender. You have to remove the wheel and fender liner to get to it: What is a Mustang CCRM? - LMR.com
If you've already done what I instructed(you haven't really said what if anything you've done yet since I responded) and you're still getting communication issues and no codes then I would remove the PCM and the instrument cluster and send them both out to have them tested and repaired if necessary. A reputable automotive module repair service is needed for this. Automotive Circuit Solutions, Autoecm, Upfix, and Module Master are places worth considering. They'll test the PCM and cluster and if needed then repair them as well.