Crate engine build or rebuild a worn 302?

When I did the research for my engine decisions that had to be made, I liked Ford Racing's reputation the best. There are quite a few engine builders out there that boast high HP for little money, but Ford Racing did not seem too good to be true and Summit sells their stuff.

BUT, I ended up building my own. I took the money that I saved and put it into a stoker kit. Granted, I spent more in the long run, but more power is "more power".

It all depends on your budget, what you can do yourself, what HP/Torque you want. The cheapest way to go is build your 302 using stock parts to get about 200 HP, then build it up to 300 HP. After that it gets questsionable if Ford Racing is a better value. Especially if you lack Know-How, tools, or more importantly - TIME.

It kinda depends on what you want. If you just want it done quick and right, buy the crate motor and drop it in.

If you wanna have fun actually assembling your own engine (while cursing like a sailor) then rebuild the 302. This is the route I took. Stripped the engine down to just the block and had it machined. In the process of rebuilding it atm

I had the same decision to make, except I had my 68 302 which I rebuilt 20 years ago was due. By the time I updated the old engine, it wasn't much more to start with a new 351W and build a stroker. It all depends on your resources and goals. I crate would be the easiest, but quality would be a concern for me. I bought the pieces amd went to a local builder who had a great reputation. If you have the block, just buy the pieces and have it done. Just check out the person you choose.

Yadkin said:

Didn't you already make the decision by buying the used engine in the first place?

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I picked up the used engine for $100, so if I decided to part with it, I'm not at a huge loss. Also, why is 1973 the worst year for engines? Even if I only use the block and bore it out .030 for example, is it still better to just get a newer 5.0 roller block? Time isn't really an issue for the build as my 200 I6 is still running me around daily. I'm just curious about what has worked for other people's street small blocks in their Mustangs and this is contributing to my research on what I should do. I have built one engine prior to this with a group of friends at school (Chevy 350) so I have a generally good idea of what I'm doing. Like I said before, I just want a reliable/reasonable street engine that has some good power to lay down on the pavement.

Mr.Pajamas said:

I picked up the used engine for $100, so if I decided to part with it, I'm not at a huge loss. Also, why is 1973 the worst year for engines? Even if I only use the block and bore it out .030 for example, is it still better to just get a newer 5.0 roller block? Time isn't really an issue for the build as my 200 I6 is still running me around daily. I'm just curious about what has worked for other people's street small blocks in their Mustangs and this is contributing to my research on what I should do. I have built one engine prior to this with a group of friends at school (Chevy 350) so I have a generally good idea of what I'm doing. Like I said before, I just want a reliable/reasonable street engine that has some good power to lay down on the pavement.

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1973 has a bad reputation because that's when a certain EPA mandate came out that the car manufacturer's frankly weren't ready for. Carbs had a certain amount of non-adjustability, "smog pumps" robbed us of power, and as I recall there was a change in the way horsepower was measured. Heads were de-tuned for lower octane no-lead gas. Bottom line is that the engines ran like crap compared to what we were used to. The insurance industry as well forced the manufacturer's to stop the muscle car war. It was the end of an era and we all lost a little bit more freedom.

My dad had a 1972 Ford with a 351W and my grandfather had a '72 Olds Cutlass with a 350 "Rocket" V8. Both those were fine engines that ran great and lasted a long time. I used to take the Olds and find 1973 or newer Trans Ams to play with- they couldn't keep up. I ran the Ford up to 185,000 miles before I sold it.

It shouldn't matter to you though since a 1973 block is no different than a 1972. And since you have a classic you can delete the smog gear and get a decent set of heads.

Yadkin said:

1973 has a bad reputation because that's when a certain EPA mandate came out that the car manufacturer's frankly weren't ready for. Carbs had a certain amount of non-adjustability, "smog pumps" robbed us of power, and as I recall there was a change in the way horsepower was measured. Heads were de-tuned for lower octane no-lead gas. Bottom line is that the engines ran like crap compared to what we were used to. The insurance industry as well forced the manufacturer's to stop the muscle car war. It was the end of an era and we all lost a little bit more freedom.

My dad had a 1972 Ford with a 351W and my grandfather had a '72 Olds Cutlass with a 350 "Rocket" V8. Both those were fine engines that ran great and lasted a long time. I used to take the Olds and find 1973 or newer Trans Ams to play with- they couldn't keep up. I ran the Ford up to 185,000 miles before I sold it.

It shouldn't matter to you though since a 1973 block is no different than a 1972. And since you have a classic you can delete the smog gear and get a decent set of heads.

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I'm sure this would all matter if he was trying to "restore" a 1973 302 to original factory specifications, but since his plan is to rebuild it, he's going to determine what pistons, what cam, which intake, which carb, etc. 1973, 1983, 1963, it's just a big block of cast iron to mold into whatever you want to make!

You cant go wrong with a mild performance engine built of the newer 302HO block with full hyd roller cam/lifters. I would personally stay away from the older flat tappet stuff....the newer blocks are cheaper to build off using OE roller components as well rather than spending more for Retro Lifters.

Let me know if I can help.

t.mcginley.jr said:

Are roller motors better simply because the rolling ability of the lifters frees up more horsepower??

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Yes to wha the other said and the main thing is....that camshaft aint going FLAT! With moderon oils taking the zinc out of the conventional oils...its the better way to go for streetability and performance.

Mr PJ - I agree with Sick and made the same decision he did. I wanted a mild to aggressive street motor for my 1966 coupe and the prices for crate motors with high horse power made the price shoot through the roof. I ended up building a stroker motor the way I wanted it for a price close to that of an average powered crate motor. I started with a 1972 302 block and had a local race shop machine and build the short block. I did the rest. I told him what parts I planned on using and he built it around that.

It took A LOT of my spare time (almost a year) and a great deal of patience to complete but it has been worth it for me.

Unlike your car, mine is not a daily driver and I did not have a dead line to get it finished. I wanted a 347 stroker kit and a big cam to make around 500+ HP at the fly wheel. You may not want that type of motor.

You already have the block and that's a good start. I wouldn't worry about the fact that it is a 1973 block. Due to the gas crunch in the early 1970's, manufacturers made the deck height of the block taller (8.2" instead of 8") to lower compression and reduce power. When you have it machined, they can machine it down as far as you want. As for the hydraulic flat tappet cam, I wouldn't worry about that either. If the motor is broken in correctly you will be fine.

Price out some crate motors that meet your needs and then talk with a reputable machine shop and compare. If you decide to go with a crate, you can sell the one you just bought and go from there.

Good luck and be patient!