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Hey, I have an 88 GT and just finished installing F303 cam gt40 iron heads and gt40 intake. The started fine, so I took it out for a test drive. It had no power so I brought back in to check the timing. Pulled the distributor out so that I can zero the balancer to TDC and installed it again. I couldnt get the car to start. I thought that maybe I was 180 degrees off on the distributor so I spun the engine and flipped the dist rotor and still nothing. Now im thinking this isnt right because I just tried it both 180 degree ways> I check fuel and spark and I have those. I flipped the dist. again to the way it was the first time and the car started. Took it out for a drive but still didnt have power so came back in. Shut the car off and it didnt restart, all if did was crank. Had spark and fuel again, but no start. After doing the above things AGAIN, (after like 2hrs) the car started again. I went for a drive and since the car didnt have power again, I decided to adjust the timing on the street so I don’t shut the car off. I turned the DIST wayy off and the car had power all of a sudden. It was soo much that the marks on the dist were gone. But it had power. Thinking that the timing is still way off, I went back in to adjust timing and now I cant start the car for anything. Just cranks whether its 180 one way or another. Still have spark and crank. Im thinking that maybe I degreed the cam? I don’t know. I got the Ford racing double roller chain with the 4 marks on it. Someone please help me out here.
 

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Dude how are you setting the timing? You should only attempt to do it with an inductive timing light and the spout connector removed. Set it at 10 degrees after TDC.

If you are ever unsure about your distributor being 180 degrees off, you can feel for compression on cylinder #1 spark plug then turn the crankshaft bolt until the timing pointer reads TOC (0 degrees). It should be pointing to #1 wire if you lift the distributor cap.

Installing the timing chain and setting the marks should look like the attached file. When you time it, it should be set at the second 10 mark on the balancer as shown in the second attached file.
 

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Ok, so I just went to the car after it has been sitting overnight. It started right up and idled beautifully. Then all of a sudden it shut off and I couldnt get it to restart. I tried to start it a couple of times with no success. I waited like 3 minutes and tried to start it and it started, ran for like 20 seconds, and died. I tried to restart it but couldnt and the battery died from the cranking. So you see, the car starts and then shuts off after a while, what could cause this, timing? Im out of suggestions here.
 

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Sounds like the timing is too high.
 

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I'm thinking timing as well, BUT, when I checked with the timing light(spout connector out) its at 14degrees.
 

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Could be your TFI and/or PIP (coil pickup) could be going bad too......
 

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As I was messing with the car trying to figure out the problem I noticed that all of a sudden I didnt have any spark OR fuel. I hooked up a fuel gauge and noticed that at times I have fuel. I had the key turned to the RUN (engine off) position and started turning the distributor left and right. I started to hear clicking and noticed that the fuel gauge was jumping up and down when I was turning the distributor with the car off. I went to start the car and it started. I realized that the clicking was the injector pulse. I was able to get the car started twice but now I cant. Someone please tell me where the distributor connector wires go to (straight to the computer) or to a relay. Its not the wiring because I tugged and pulled on the harness and nothing clicked like as if I was to disconnect and reconnect the distributor or move the distributor. I don’t think that it’s the wiring but instead whatever controls fuel and spark at the same time. COMPUTER??RELAY?? Someone please let me know.
 

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Now it's really sounding like a distributor problem.
 

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What controls spark and fuel? - the ignition switch that supplies power to the componanats that start the car, the TFI and PIP (inside the dist) pickup coil.
 
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