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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is for all you guys that have taken out your A/C. Has it actually given you a performance gain? And if it has, do you think its because of the weight drop or because there is one less thing for your engine to turn. I kinda dont want to lose my A/C so I was thinking that I could run a shorter belt and route it around the compressor (obviously in the months that i dont use it) if its not the weight that makes the differnce. Well anyone, please just let me know if you think the amount of power you have gained from removing it is actually worth losing the luxury of air conditioning. thanx a lot
 

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If you disconnect the electric cable at the AC compressor, the AC pulley works like an idler pulley. This would be almost as if no AC would be installed.

(minus the weight of the AC system 20# and minus the friction at the AC pulley "now an idler pulley" -> 0.25 HP)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
GTRaptor said:
Just use a shortbelt. You will regret not having AC :)
But will it really do that much, is it worth even buying a second belt?? If it doesnt give any power or anything, then its pretty much pointless and I'd rather just leave it how it is.
 

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Next time you need to replace your belt and have it off, take your hand and spin the AC pulley. Watch it keep on spinning. This is all the engine is driving when the AC is turned off. You will certainly gain some underhood room and shed some weight by removing the AC system, short of that I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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jbspeed86 said:
This is for all you guys that have taken out your A/C. Has it actually given you a performance gain? And if it has, do you think its because of the weight drop or because there is one less thing for your engine to turn. I kinda dont want to lose my A/C so I was thinking that I could run a shorter belt and route it around the compressor (obviously in the months that i dont use it) if its not the weight that makes the differnce. Well anyone, please just let me know if you think the amount of power you have gained from removing it is actually worth losing the luxury of air conditioning. thanx a lot
Honestly, only the ricers (4 cylinder cars) gain anything from this type of mod. Since a Honda type car only has 125hp or less, the little friction from the A/C will actually find a hp gain. But since we have 4 extra cylinders, and actually have something called torque!, no measurable gain can possiby be made.
 

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AC compresssor off has no more drag than a idler pulley. Save your money on a belt and leave everything on the car. you would only gain .02 in the quarter because of the weight drop. lol
 

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Unless you have an older AC compressor like I used to, which didnt spin all that well, then it could help to get the belt. For me my compressor didnt turn all that freely, but it was still giving me cold air so for me it was worth it to buy a bypass belt for the track rather than replace the compressor. My belt would bypass smog, and AC but only for the track. That combined with removing excess weight: spare tire, jack, rear seats, passenger seat, mats, etc loose stuff seemed to improve my track times (by how much I cant say, I used to have pretty erratic times back then)...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well i think im just going to take the whole A/C system out for now because it isnt all that cold and there is a kit that converts the system from the old refrigerant to the more up to date stuff. The kit includes condenser, canister, compressor and all lines and its like $400. I believe its from 50resto. So ill just take it our for now and replace the a/c with an idler pully til i get the money for the new kit. Thanks for all your info everyone!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My mistake, it's actually $699.99 for that kit, I just looked it up. But I think I'll still go with my plan. There are actually 2 options for the belt, a shorter one to bypass the smog pump (which is what I am doing) and one with a stock length belt. So thats better than buying another belt too.
 

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By the way-
You may be tempted to remove the AC system (piping, wiring, condensor, blah blah blah) but leave the compressor mounted until you figure out if your going to bypass, move the power steering pump, or whatever.

Just make sure if you do leave the compressor mounted that its not still turning from the serpentine belt. I have a buddy who did the same thing you are thinking about and was lazy and left his compressor mounted with the serpentine still turning the compressor pulley. A few months later the compressor siezed on the highway and shredded the belt, which overheated the engine and drained the battery, and left him stranded for a few hours. :sterb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
mccoigk said:
By the way-
You may be tempted to remove the AC system (piping, wiring, condensor, blah blah blah) but leave the compressor mounted until you figure out if your going to bypass, move the power steering pump, or whatever.

Just make sure if you do leave the compressor mounted that its not still turning from the serpentine belt. I have a buddy who did the same thing you are thinking about and was lazy and left his compressor mounted with the serpentine still turning the compressor pulley. A few months later the compressor siezed on the highway and shredded the belt, which overheated the engine and drained the battery, and left him stranded for a few hours. :sterb:
wow thanks for the heads up. But I am going to just take out the entire a/c system for now, compressor and all. Then I'll get that kit and put all the up to date parts in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sure if you want it, ill send it to you after I take it out. But Im not sure what else you will need. but ill send all the parts that come out of the engine bay if you really want them
 

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@JBSPEED86,


Don't remove your A/C, converting to R134A is quite easy(provided you have the proper tools). If your current A/C unit runs on R12 which uses mineral oil, reclaim the refrigerant from the system and drain the oil from the compressor. Install polyol ester (POE) oil which is compatable with R134a (http://www.technicalchemical.com/products-10a.htm (scroll down to POE oil) add the same amount of POE oil that data plate states, vacuum down the system for at least an hour and charge the system with 2lbs of R134a. Done.

You can as a bit of a safety measure replace the filter/dryer.

I did this for my dad on his 86 5.0LX about two years ago and it's still running strong. Also I didn't replace the filter/dryer, based on previous experience in the refrigeration industry you can have up to 5% mineral mixed into the POE oil and you won't have any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What would happen if you thought you got it all out but you didnt. What sort of problems are we lookin at?
 

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If you're not sure about your AC, unplug the electrics from the commpressor and see what you think,before you go tearing it apart.
You'll gain a bit more horsepower and better fuel mileage with it unplugged and you don't have to bastardize anything on it.
Tore my ac out of my 88 after I checked out what it'd do
if you do pull it out leave your commpressor in and use it as a pully,won't hurt anything leaving it in and it saves you a few bucks looking for another snake belt
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well Im not taking it out for performance, Im just planning on purchasing an upgrade kit, I figured this way I would get a kit compatible with new refrigerant and have the peace of mind of having all new parts (not to mention they would look alot neater and cleaner than the old 13 year old parts that are there now. So I am just going to pull the whole thing out til I get the new kit
 

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jbspeed86 said:
What would happen if you thought you got it all out but you didnt. What sort of problems are we lookin at?
R134a is not compatable with mineral oil and with eventually turn gummy, however alittle mineral oil in a R134a system wont do any harm, I converted a series of commercial freezers from R12 to R134a and all I changed was the filter/dryer and switch to POE oil. You can also blow the system out with nitrogen before you charge with r134a, it will help remove any moisture in the system.

Have a look here, I buy all my A/C tools from them.
http://www.yellowjacket.com/pr.html

Also dont buy any A/C tools with automotive threads, you just pay more and your tools are then only limited to work on cars.

When buying the A/C coupler (buy the ECONOMY R-134a A/C COUPLERS)
ask for one with the standard refrigeration thread, that way you can buy the standard hoses and std gages which are cheaper and more useful.
http://www.yellowjacket.com/prdetail.cfm?PrimCatID=122&Auto=1#a3040

So the only thing you have to replace on the car is the A/C fitting for the R134a coupler, provided the A/C system is functioning properly and doesn't have any leaks.
 

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I have a 92 GT that the previous owner converted over to R134, and it just plain sucks. It doesn't blow very cold at all, and with 80-85 degree weather in the summer time it never really cools down inside the car, I'd just assume have my windows down. I have heard from a lot of other people too that when you convert from R12 to R134 that it never will be as cold as it was. So I'm just pulling the whole AC system out.

If you can help it at all, I would stick with R12 if I were you. R12 is hard to find, but tons or R12 is sold on eBay. All the auctions on eBay state that you have to have proof that you are licensed to buy and/or use R12 in order purchase it from them. I have bought R12 off eBay few times before and know a lot of other people who have by just emailing different sellers and asking them if they would sell to me if I give them a written statement that I am having my lisenced mechanic install. And sometimes they say that is fine and will sell to me like that.



I also have a question if anybody can help me out. This spring I will be pulling out my AC, smog pump, fan, and water pump and installing an electric water pump and electric fan. So the only belt driven accessories I will have will be a PA Performance 130amp alternator and stock power steering pump. First, is a 130amp alternator enough to handle the electric fan and water pump? Second, how can I set up my belt and brackets to accomodate with this setup? Would it be feasible to get on those March adjustable alternator brackets where you can adjust the position and tension, and then just get a belt that fits? Or would I need a tensioner pulley? Any help would be great.
 
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