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I had this happen on my 07 v6. I noticed sagging in the middle, then eventually the material started coming undone around the top edge. I got sick of it and fixed it. Here is what I did:

  1. Get the edge and pull it all the way down. If it doesn't budge, get a hair drier and heat it up for a few minutes. It'll come right off. Pull it all the way down to the arm rest, no further. It is not common for anything below the arm rest to be coming off, but if you do see spots then do it after you've done the top.
  2. Rub off all the old adhesive. There will be a lot. If you heated it up, wait for it to cool off and dry. You should easily get it off by rubbing your hand across it.
  3. Once it is all off, prep the door masking around it with tape and paper. Get a can of spray adhesive (forgot the brand, got it from home depot) and spray a nice, even coat across the door panel under where the material goes. You do not need a lot... the stuff is very sticky. Just an even coat so you get every inch.
  4. Starting from the bottom, start from the center and slowly work your way up. Like you're massaging someone's back from the bottom all the way to the top. Work your way left and right as you move higher, making sure to keep it nice and flat. You will have no cure time to move it around, but as long as you press firmly you'll get it right. Don't do the edges yet.
  5. Once you have most of the inner area pressed up against the door, start working from the very top going outwards. You have to pay close attention to the edge to make sure it doesn't fold in on itself and it gets all the way in to the crack far enough, otherwise it won't look right. Work around the edges pushing from the inside out over the top edge. The shape of the material should make it fall right in to place with minimal effort.
  6. To ensure a permanent fit around the edge, get something flat like a mixing stick and work it in to the cracks, pressing down to make sure the edges stick to the adhesive


This is the process I've used to repair Mustangs in the DFW area with this issue. I charge $20 for one hour of my time + the cost of the adhesive. No one has ever come back to me saying the adhesive let go. The trick is to make sure you get a moderate, even coating. If you spray it on too much then you'll get round globs under the material. Too little and it'll start sagging in the spots you missed. This is a very easy fix to do yourself.
 
I had my passenger side door panel fixed at a local upholstery shop about 3 weeks ago. Well, with my luck the driver panel came loose a week ago. I didn't return to the upholstery shop but I did go to Home Depot and bought 3M Rubber & Vinyl 80 Spray Adhesive. It was easy to use if you follow the directions. I used a paint stick to tuck the vinyl on the edges.
 
I had a bubble form in my driver's side door leather, probably the result of rain from drive-through runs. I just got some upholstery glue and a jewelers syringe, gently stuck the needle into one of the hatching marks, and took my time injecting the glue evenly. After that I pounded it a few times with the flat of my palm like calling for a beer wench and it's been an invisible repair ever since. Mind you the jewelers syringe was completely ruined afterwards but it's still cheaper and easier than ripping the leather off or buying a new door panel, especially if you have a rare interior color.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
wow... surprised this old thread popped up. To update, I have reglued both of my door "leather" 3 times now with that spray 3M adhesive mentioned above. The last re-glue has lasted nearly 8 months now and seems to be finally lasting. However, tired of glueing it every 3 months, last time I used dang near the whole can between both doors.

With the stang going on 9 years old this december, im thinking my goal in 2015 will be to redo my fading red interior. Looked bada$$ when I bought it, but the suns UV, even through dark tint, and even with me constantly caking leather care on it, has taken its toll on the red leather and it looks like something id expect to find in an 80s corvette. Cracked and crappy..... :(

Im thinking going to black with silver inserts in the seats and door panels (ala 35th Anniversay scheme) would look really good in my car. Maybe then my door panel "leather" will stay glued....
 
Mine was horrible in my 2006 GT in the hot, humid heat of the Gulf Coast (I'm halfway between Mobile and Pensacola about a two miles from I-10. I was never able to get them to stay up, and after the car was totaled, I jumped on a GT Deluxe with leather simply because it didn't have the mess on the door panels. I miss the displays and extra gauges on the dash, color customizations, and carbon fiber dash, but I'd date a normal door panel any day.
 
Did you use any adhesion promoter? Depending on the surface, you may need to put some down to help the glue bond. If you haven't and want to try, you'll need to clean the surface real good first to clear off the old glue.
 
glued mine twice and both times lasted 2 weeks and fell back down. i thought about scraping off the foam but thought it wouldn't lay right. gonna try that next.
 
I like AM's $160 solution, but I'm saving up for a CAI & tuner. So, I channelled my inner red-neck and came up with...


...screen spline. Clearly, it isn't a perfect solution. I have no idea if it will work short- or long-term. But given the $6 price and how miserably the more conventionaal glue solutions have failed, I thought I'd give it a shot.
 

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Mine has failed and the previous owner glued it up with something that works but it looks like crap. I might have to replace the material and all.
Try the spline. Mine hasn't had any issues in...5 days? It's been really cold where I live and everything has remained where it's supposed to stay, so I'm cautiously optimistic that it's a workable [if somewhat goofy] solution.
 
Several YT videos on repairing this. Also, a company that advertises on E-Bay (don't have the link- I think the name is "Top Gaiters") sells leather replacements for 60 bucks.
 
Do you know if that is for one or the pair?
It's for the pair. However, they aren't perforated but you can get your choice of stitching colors.
Also, "Trim Bright Accents' carries what I think were referred to as splines in the earlier post.
 
I like AM's $160 solution, but I'm saving up for a CAI & tuner. So, I channelled my inner red-neck and came up with...


...screen spline. Clearly, it isn't a perfect solution. I have no idea if it will work short- or long-term. But given the $6 price and how miserably the more conventionaal glue solutions have failed, I thought I'd give it a shot.
Now that I might try. I currently have it taped up on my driver door and well tape not only looks bad, but has to be replaced every few weeks as it gets dirty and starts peeling. I feel like this might be a more longterm fix. Also looks good enough to maybe not be noticeable to me and passengers unless you really look and pay attention.

+1
 
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