[JimmyBoy]

apparently i have semi metalic brake pads on my car now, ive noticed some problems stopping so when i took my car in to have it checked they said i need to have ceramic brake pads. ok, so i am going to be changing my pads to ceraminc and was wondering if i should get drilled and slotted rotors also, or should i just keep what i have now, also is there anything special i need to do to change these pads, ive never changed pads on a car with ABS before, or is it the same as non abs cars???
thanks

 

[engineer76]

Hi Jimmy

I had Ceramic pads on my GT. I wasn't happy with them.
I got a new set of rotors and the Ford pads in the rear and the Motorcraft ones in the front.
How did stopping power change?
Over all stopping power did NOT increase, how ever the way HOW the brakes FEEL is WAY better now.

I've heared that a lot of people with drilled and slotted rotors were complaining about the noise. (I never had drilled and slotted rotors on a stang)

I am wondering if you would not be better off if you just get the, I think it is 13", Cobra/Bullit rotors, calipers and pads. But I have never done such a conversion. You have to ask someone else.

Hope I could help with this info.

 

[tripleblack]

Cobra

I have 13" Baer cross drilled/slotted rotors on my car, and the noise is very loud (ticking sound like a bicycle with a playing card pinned to hit the spokes). They definitely stop the car better - but the sound is a distraction.

Get the 13" Cobra kit for your front that has cross-drilled rotors and comes complete with ss brake hoses, Cobra calipers, and matching pads. Set you back about $700 - but you'll have great brakes.

You can get a matching setup for the rear for less (I think about $500). Talk to them on the phone - they might knock off a bit more if you buy front and rear as a kit.

I all you want is the look and a little better brakes, buy just the cross-drilled standard size rotors and a set of Hawk pads. This option will run you about $450 for all 4 wheels.

Sorry, don't have a site recommendation - Summit sells these, but their prices are usually not the best. Try Amp Performance, maybe.

tripleblack

 

[jasons99gt]

I have 13" Baer cross drilled/slotted rotors on my car, and the noise is very loud (ticking sound like a bicycle with a playing card pinned to hit the spokes). They definitely stop the car better - but the sound is a distraction.

Get the 13" Cobra kit for your front that has cross-drilled rotors and comes complete with ss brake hoses, Cobra calipers, and matching pads. Set you back about $700 - but you'll have great brakes.

You can get a matching setup for the rear for less (I think about $500). Talk to them on the phone - they might knock off a bit more if you buy front and rear as a kit.

I all you want is the look and a little better brakes, buy just the cross-drilled standard size rotors and a set of Hawk pads. This option will run you about $450 for all 4 wheels.

Sorry, don't have a site recommendation - Summit sells these, but their prices are usually not the best. Try Amp Performance, maybe.

tripleblack

So the "clicking" sound is normal? I thought they installed my rotors backwards! Thanks for the info! It only comes from the back though. I have the Baer rotors in the back.

 

[GR40Snake]

If your rotors are not warped or show signs of cracking then there is no reason to replace them. Unless, like me you agree that the GT brakes are inadequate for a heavy powerful car, especially if you ever plan to track your car as I do. Do it right the first time if you want a serious upgrade. Your best bet is to go with the :worship 2000 Cobra R Brembo Kit or for less $$ you can settle for a regular Cobra 13inch upgrade. If you do replace your rotors have them cryotreated first. www.cryoscience.com Regarding drilled or slotted or both, both D&S looks good on the street though if you track the car go slotted at most. Per a Brembo Rep: A drilled rotor will promote cracking from the holes as it heats and cools too quickly, because of the holes, while on track. Ceramic pad technology is marketed as superior to simi-metalic and was created for longer pad life with more resistance to fading. Baer Brakes recommends SBS pads, they are ceramic, I run the Track pad with EradiSpeed+ f/r on my Cobra, stock calipers for now. SBS Track pads are the middle of the three SBS pad levels. I do have a hint of squeak during gentle very low speed stopping for the first few miles until some heat builds then it goes away, never heard clicking. This squeaking sound, I think it sounds cool, is the same sound a race car makes in the pits before it goes out on track, once on track you don't here it again. My experience with EBC & PFriction was not favorable. When I need pads I will again buy SBS. Go to www.baer.com or www.brembo.com and see for yourself. Also consider steal braided lines. Changing pads on an ABS equipped car is the same as non ABS car. :smoke:

http://baer.com/Products/SBSBrakePads.aspx

 

[1996gtstang]

power slot rotors,,thats what i put on and they are quiet and stop on a dime only cost bout $650 and change well worth it!!!great cheap breaks and i installed myself in half a day all four 13 inch rotors

 

[GR40Snake]

You get what you pay for :winks

 

[tripleblack]

Long story

Sounds like you may have the same rotors I have (Baer Eradispeed). They really have no solution for the noise - they just don't want to admit it. Noise is of course not a factor for track use - where performance is all that matters... On the street, the noise will make you crazy.

Cross-drilled rotors aren't so noisy - I wish I had followed the advice I just gave Jimmy.

tripleblack

So the "clicking" sound is normal? I thought they installed my rotors backwards! Thanks for the info! It only comes from the back though. I have the Baer rotors in the back.

 

[tripleblack]

GR40Snake brake

The stock brakes bite (in a bad way, unfortunately). My whole philosophy of auto-modification is backwards from norm. When somebody else might be slapping an aftercat on their car, I'm adding good brakes, so I'm serious about brakes.

I agree the R brakes are better than the standard Cobras, and I should have mentioned that he will need 17" wheels to use them (I'm not sure, but he may need more space for the R brake calipers...). The R brakes also cost more, and if you need 18" wheels, the cost will be high (I run 18" wheels, so no problem for me, but we might need to hear from someone on the forum running Brembo R brakes with 17" wheels).

Cryotreating is new to this old dog - but I've read the treatment really does work. How much does it cost?

I suspect you don't have the problems with your brakes because you avoided the cross-drilled AND slotted path (picking either one for the street works fine - just not both). Cross-drilling (old school) does indeed promote cracks at track speeds and loads. Cross slotting (slots that run all the way through the rotor) can work, particularly on solid rotors.

For a street setup (with rare road race use) I suspect the Cobra brakes would do fine. The R's are still widely available and well thought-out - if you can stand the $$$.

Overall, I think your and my advice fits neatly together. Good luck with your track events. Just curious - what sort of suspension modifications have you made?

tripleblack

If your rotors are not warped or show signs of cracking then there is no reason to replace them. Unless, like me you agree that the GT brakes are inadequate for a heavy powerful car, especially if you ever plan to track your car as I do. Do it right the first time if you want a serious upgrade. Your best bet is to go with the :worship 2000 Cobra R Brembo Kit or for less $$ you can settle for a regular Cobra 13inch upgrade. If you do replace your rotors have them cryotreated first. www.cryoscience.com Regarding drilled or slotted or both, both D&S looks good on the street though if you track the car go slotted at most. Per a Brembo Rep: A drilled rotor will promote cracking from the holes as it heats and cools too quickly, because of the holes, while on track. Ceramic pad technology is marketed as superior to simi-metalic and was created for longer pad life with more resistance to fading. Baer Brakes recommends SBS pads, they are ceramic, I run the Track pad with EradiSpeed+ f/r on my Cobra, stock calipers for now. SBS Track pads are the middle of the three SBS pad levels. I do have a hint of squeak during gentle very low speed stopping for the first few miles until some heat builds then it goes away, never heard clicking. This squeaking sound, I think it sounds cool, is the same sound a race car makes in the pits before it goes out on track, once on track you don't here it again. My experience with EBC & PFriction was not favorable. When I need pads I will again buy SBS. Go to www.baer.com or www.brembo.com and see for yourself. Also consider steal braided lines. Changing pads on an ABS equipped car is the same as non ABS car. :smoke:

http://baer.com/Products/SBSBrakePads.aspx

 

[GR40Snake]

You are correct Triple about the wheel clearance issues. A brake upgrade is no good if it doesn’t clear your wheels. If I remember correctly it was $25 a rotor to cryotreat. The shop I use www.x-m-p.com sent them out and all I had to do was wait a couple of days. See my signature for suspension mods or go to :worship [url="http://www.griggsracing.com/"]www.griggsracing.com[/url] . The red vert on the front page has 660rwhp 315's on all four. I took a ride around Buttonwillow Raceway in this car with John Griggs....WOW.:worship

 

[Monkey Boy]

For starters, your car came with ceramic pads from the factory and they are a much better pad than semi-metallics. They are quieter and make less dust. As far as the rotors, I am going to install some Brembo cross-drilled and slotted rotors on Sunday. I'll make a post in the community lounge and let you guys know how I like them.